Don't feel too bad about the times. The track is still very slick. I went on friday night and it was horrible. I kept loosing traction in 2nd and 3rd and kept having to let off because the rear was moving around way too much.
I was running the same tires as you and could only get 1.990 as my best 60ft. I heard it was better on sat, but i'm going to give it few weeks before i go back.
Let me know next time your heading out.
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Modular Performance Built Boss 324 shortblock, C head swap, Naz Ported 01 heads, Custom N/A Comp Cams, Naz ported Shortrunner, 03 cobra 39lb injectors and maf, JLT RAI, ARH SS 1 3/4 & OR X, Bassani Catback, 4.30s, and other supporting mods
Don't feel too bad about the times. The track is still very slick. I went on friday night and it was horrible. I kept loosing traction in 2nd and 3rd and kept having to let off because the rear was moving around way too much.
I was running the same tires as you and could only get 1.990 as my best 60ft. I heard it was better on sat, but i'm going to give it few weeks before i go back.
Let me know next time your heading out.
Sure thing man,.. I totally forgot about calling you. My bad
It may be a while though as I need to fix my setup. How did you do?
Was it a big turnout Friday night? Know of anyone with a fox body looking to buy a complete Kenne Bell kit?
I know what tires he's talking about I have a set 26x11.50x16 E.T. Streets as well but the stock half shafts won't take many 1.50 60ft launches. I
broke a shaft on my 245/50/16 nittos I had made 15 or so passes on them and the weekend I put the Spec 3+ clutch I broke a shaft. It only makes sense once you eliminate one weak point the power finds a new one. A stock clutch will slip at high RPM launches. I only said what I said cause I'm assuming he doesn't wanna break the car especially if he drives it to the track.
if you compared a street tire, drag radial and a slick the slick will be the best choice to protect your half shafts and tranny. running more air in them wont help either. this will just cause wheel hop when you hit 2nd gear and maybe out of the hole. i have snapped the factory half shafts on mt drag radials and i put level 5s in my car. i started running the cheater slicks and had no issues. i tried running my hoosier drag radials once at the track and i broke one of my level 5 half shafts. i have been running the cheater slicks ever since at the track. jut my .02 every car is different and every driver is different. if you go to the track and you dont wont to break anything the slicks or cheater slicks are your best choice. they cushion the launch. a drag radial has a stiffer side wall and will not provide any protection. the shock from the launch will snap a axle like a twig with drag radials. street tires will just provide wheel hop all the way down the track and that will def break a axle. i guess if you dont want to break anything at the track then dont go. a track is made to hook and a hooking track will break parts.
randall
____________________________________ 04 Cobra 10 second eaton car. Sold.
"a track is made to hook and a hooking track will break parts."
randall
Thats why I said the stock shafts wont take many 1.50 60ft launches. The air pressure being higher IMO was just to make sure it doesn't dead hook a Little tire spin wouldn't be bad for a stock IRS car. I ran the same tires with my stock blower I left the pressure around 15lbs I think and I was really easy on it out the hole i cut 1.75 60ft. The car ran 11.60 something and I knew if I lauched it harder (lower the air pressure) it would run around 11.40s probably could have done it that day but I drove the car to the track. Sometimes faster isn't always smarter but that's why I got a built rearend now and I still trailer the car to the track everytime. Now i cut mid 1.50s all the time.
____________________________________ 2003 COBRA
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i see your point. i still think the cheater slick or slick is a better option for the track than a street tire or drag radial thats all i was getting at. no matter what tire you are on you can break something. i just think with a slick/cheater slick the chances of something breaking are a lot less. more air pressure may help. when i was running higher air pressure i just got wheel hop. but i guess every car and driver are different.
I know what tires he's talking about I have a set 26x11.50x16 E.T. Streets as well but the stock half shafts won't take many 1.50 60ft launches. I
broke a shaft on my 245/50/16 nittos I had made 15 or so passes on them and the weekend I put the Spec 3+ clutch I broke a shaft. It only makes sense once you eliminate one weak point the power finds a new one.
Well then, you're not misunderstanding the issue, you're just incorrect......
Randall is right on. Many folks have hit 1.5 60' times on stock half shafts. The slicks will absorb a good deal of the torsional forces of the launch and greatly lessen the shock on the drivetrain.
Well then, you're not misunderstanding the issue, you're just incorrect......
Randall is right on. Many folks have hit 1.5 60' times on stock half shafts. The slicks will absorb a good deal of the torsional forces of the launch and greatly lessen the shock on the drivetrain.
Thanks for the lesson I've only been racing for a week now and it is 1995..... Maybe 525rwhp won't break them who knows I just know I have already broke my car many times.
Dood these guys are right I now see the light put your tires at 10-12lbs and launch that bitch around 6000 you should run your best time this way if you even make it down the track. May the Torsional Forces be with you...
On a more serious note I know many guys have run amazing times with stock stuff but you gotta be prepared if the car breaks. If you drive to the track and its not right up the road from your garage then you might wanna play it safe but if your like me and you trailer your car and don't care if it breaks then let it rip. No one is right or wrong in this matter it all just depends on your situation.
Dood these guys are right I now see the light put your tires at 10-12lbs and launch that bitch around 6000 you should run your best time this way if you even make it down the track. May the Torsional Forces be with you...
That's exactly what I do!.....Now we're getting somewhere. And I always take a spare half shaft with me. Learned that from my old drag radial days. But haven't had to use it for the past three years since going with slicks.
I put my ET Streets on my car for the first time the other day before I left for the track and left my regular radials on the front. I took it for a ride down the road and it felt fine. I took it up to about 75-80 MPH and it felt like I was in a 100 MPH wind storm.
I went back home and put my drag fronts on (Weld Pro-Stars with bias-ply MT Front Runners) and it was 100 times better.
I don't recommend anyone running over 120 MPH trap speeds, mixing bias-ply slicks with radial fronts. It's just a recipe for disaster, as specially if you lack experience with it.
On a side note, my car has a stock clutch, mostly stock IRS and makes just under 600 RWHP. I have a Whipple 2.3 Gen II with a 3.1" upper and stock lower.
At 19 psi in the ET Streets and about a 4500 RPM launch, I was spinning off the line and turned a 1.63 60'. There's no doubt in my mind that 13-15 psi would have gotten me into the 1.5x short range and it didn't feel harsh at all out of the hole. It felt very smooth.
well guys i went to the track last night i havent been there in 2 years so i ran the car my first pass was 1/4 ... 12.01 @117.63 this is with a stage v port that was a slow pass i need more practice my 60' foot was 1.83 i was on 16x8 waffle rims w/et street psi @ 16
I put my ET Streets on my car for the first time the other day before I left for the track and left my regular radials on the front. I took it for a ride down the road and it felt fine. I took it up to about 75-80 MPH and it felt like I was in a 100 MPH wind storm.
I went back home and put my drag fronts on (Weld Pro-Stars with bias-ply MT Front Runners) and it was 100 times better.
I don't recommend anyone running over 120 MPH trap speeds, mixing bias-ply slicks with radial fronts. It's just a recipe for disaster, as specially if you lack experience with it.
.
Whats the difference in running radials or bias-ply in the front? How does this make the car feel better? I am purchasing ET Streets for my car and was going to run my radials out front.
____________________________________
04 Mystichrome
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Whats the difference in running radials or bias-ply in the front? How does this make the car feel better? I am purchasing ET Streets for my car and was going to run my radials out front.
It is just the way it is, I can't explain it but you are not supposed to mix Radials and bias.
That has been known for years. Not even on street tires. It feels horrible.
____________________________________
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VirtualSVT
somewhere something ugly is happening in a bed in Montana...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tampa03cobra
I run the stickiest drag radial out there (Bias ply 15x26x10.5 ET street)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr2cam
I got a little sideways off the starting line (my slicks were bald)
Whats the difference in running radials or bias-ply in the front? How does this make the car feel better? I am purchasing ET Streets for my car and was going to run my radials out front.
I was a virgin to bias ply tires, and when I strapped them on with my stock fronts it felt quite un-nerving at speed. Bought some M/T bias-ply skinnies, and the feeling is still, 'different' to me, but MUCH MORE STABLE.
I had the car at the track twice with my Stock Wheels up front. I only puckered on my first pass. The rest of them were fine.
I also went to the track once with Radial Skinnies up front. The car felt way better than the stock wheels up front, probably due to the difference in weight.
Anyways, I found that running 14psi worked great for my car. I managed a best of 1.600 on stock halfshafts with a 26x10.5x16 ET Street.
what do you guys recommend for heavy cars? my vert weighs 4200 with me in it.. I have ton of stereo stuff in it and she is heavy! I have 26/10.50/16 ET streets.
tires were around 15 psi, I leave about 4k and let the clutch out quickly I cant for the life of me get better than a 1.8 60ft! I have always done my burnouts in 1st gear but see a lot of people doing them in 2nd does this do anything besides heat the tires up quicker?? I mean doesnt it put a lot more stress on the clutch?
My best pass is a 12.06 @ 115.88 with a 1.82 60ft
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I run MT ET Streets (bias-ply 28x11.5x16) without tubes and with MT Front skinnies radials on my 4,400# Marauder. Yes, the ride is fun at top end. But, you have to man-up and firmly grip the wheel - not for the faint of heart. Don't turn the wheel more then a 1/4" or it's bye-bye. But, the lower weight, flexible side walls, and less rotating mass is less shock to the rear is worth a few seconds of terror and will also cut your ets. I have run a best of 1.59' sec times at 16-18# TP.
But, do not run these tires with rear radials on a bumpy track. I almost lost the car at Steele, AL track. They have a very bumpy top end 1/4 mile.
I bought the 26X11.5X17 ET Street Bias Ply tires and started out at 18 lbs. and have worked my way down to 13 lbs.
So far I'm in the 1.6's in the 60ft. at 13lbs. while leaving around 4000 rpms.
Scared to go any lower on the tire pressure due to making the car move around on the big end, and scared to go any higher on the launch due to my stock half shafts.
.
Randall is right on. Many folks have hit 1.5 60' times on stock half shafts. The slicks will absorb a good deal of the torsional forces of the launch and greatly lessen the shock on the drivetrain.
I've only been racing for a week now and it is 1995..... Maybe 525rwhp won't break them 
Heavier Cars running MT ET Streets
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