The Engine coolant radiator burp fill procedure

Jimmysidecarr

Semi user friendly
Established Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Messages
14,395
Location
Spring, Texas, United States
From one of the Ford Service publications.
Radiator Re-Fill Procedure

Re-fill the radiator with a 50/50 Mix of Gold Anti-Freeze and Distilled Water following the procedure below to burp air from cooling system. Re-check Radiator Fluid Level. Repeat as necessary to ensure proper engine cooling.

Filling — Cobra without RADKITPLUS*CAUTION: Vehicle cooling systems are filled with Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant VC-7-A (in Oregon VC-7-B) or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Always fill the cooling system with the same coolant that is present in the system. Do not mix coolant types.

*CAUTION: Engine coolant provides freeze protection, boil protection, cooling efficiency, and corrosion protection to the engine and cooling components. In order to obtain these protections, the engine coolant must be maintained at the correct concentration and fluid level in the degas bottle.

When adding engine coolant, use a 50/50 mixture of engine coolant and deionized water.

To maintain the integrity of the coolant and the cooling system:

Add Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant VC-7-A (in Oregon VC-7-B) or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Use the same coolant that was drained from the cooling system. Do not mix coolant types.

Do not add/mix orange-colored Motorcraft Speciality Orange Engine Coolant VC-2 or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D. Mixing coolants may degrade the coolant's corrosion protection.

Do not add alcohol, methanol, or brine, or any engine coolants mixed with alcohol or methanol antifreeze. These can cause engine damage from overheating or freezing.

Do not mix with recycled coolant unless it meets the requirements of Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1. Not all coolant recycling processes meet these Ford specifications. Use of such coolants can harm the engine and cooling system components.

NOTE: The addition of Motorcraft Cooling System Stop Leak Pellets, VC-6, darkens Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant from yellow to golden tan.

Check all hose clamps for correct tightness. Make sure the radiator drain**** is closed.

Remove the coolant bottle cap and fill the degas bottle to the add coolant line. Install the cap.

*CAUTION: Do not fill the cooling system through the reservoir only (coolant will not enter the engine), only the reservoir and the radiator will be filled and engine overheating will occur.Remove the fill plug in the crossover tube on top of the engine.

Using a funnel, add coolant to the crossover port, keeping the level of coolant in the funnel at 1/4 full.

Squeeze the 2 large upper cooling system hoses 5 times. Bubbles may appear in the funnel as air exits the system.

Start the engine and run for 5 minutes while monitoring the coolant in the funnel.

A sudden drop in the funnel level indicates the elimination of air in the system.
Shut off the engine and let it cool for 10 minutes.

Crack open the degas bottle cap enough to allow the coolant level in the funnel to drop to within 1 inch of the bottom of the funnel.

Tighten the cap.

Remove the funnel and install the fill plug in the crossover tube.

Add coolant in the degas bottle to the full coolant line.

Repeat the fill procedure after a few heat/drive cycles to be extra sure.

Also here-->http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/639167-refill-burp-coolant-system-properly.html
 
Last edited:

TRQJUNKIE

Justa Slobra
Established Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
2,076
Location
Pennsyltucky
I'd like to add when burping the coolant system squeezing the ALL the hoses and revving the motor a little will help push air out as well.
 
Last edited:

346CamaroSS

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2010
Messages
2,515
Location
USA
Since my car was an early build mine came with the Green stuff. Is it still okay to run with the green coolant or would it be wise to switch to the gold?
 

LTHL VNM

Don't call it a comeback
Established Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2003
Messages
11,998
Location
DFW, TX.
Is motorcraft gold necessary or can I use prestone gold?
How many jugs do I need to buy for a coolant flush
 

Jimmysidecarr

Semi user friendly
Established Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Messages
14,395
Location
Spring, Texas, United States
Either color antifreeze can be refreshed with the same type with just a drain and fill.

The gold is considered a long life antifreeze.(I would still try to keep it under 4 years old though.)

The green needs to be changed more frequently than the Gold and if you want to switch a green car to the Gold long life version(of any brand), you will need to do a VERY COMPLETE flush of the system before you refill.

Changing brands does not matter that much, changing types is where the conflicts can occur.

A VERY COMPLETE FLUSH should be done first.
 
Last edited:

Banshee06

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2009
Messages
387
Location
Oregon
I have changed the fluid and had it flushed and burped it many times and I still get antifreeze seeping out of the cap of the new Canton Tank. Never had problems with the old stock tank. I have even tried three new caps and I cant get it to stop.
The guages shows normal the car doesnt act hot. The only problem is it wont stop leaking out of the cap.
 

Jimmysidecarr

Semi user friendly
Established Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Messages
14,395
Location
Spring, Texas, United States
I have changed the fluid and had it flushed and burped it many times and I still get antifreeze seeping out of the cap of the new Canton Tank. Never had problems with the old stock tank. I have even tried three new caps and I cant get it to stop.
The guages shows normal the car doesnt act hot. The only problem is it wont stop leaking out of the cap.

Which cap design are you using? Is it the factory style "tighten till it clicks" version?

Or the old school standard radiator cap design?

I'm using the old school rad cap design and have never had it leak one drop.

Also how far down from the top are you using for your cold full level?
 
Last edited:

LTHL VNM

Don't call it a comeback
Established Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2003
Messages
11,998
Location
DFW, TX.
Ok cool, thanks!
So only a drain & refill is what's needed? No flush needs to be used?
How many jugs?
 

Jimmysidecarr

Semi user friendly
Established Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Messages
14,395
Location
Spring, Texas, United States
Ok cool, thanks!
So only a drain & refill is what's needed? No flush needs to be used?
How many jugs?

You have an 04 so it's Gold for sure, I would assume you want to stay with that.

A flush is always preferred but is not all that easy for a DIYSelfer in the driveway, so a drain and fill should be good enough.

I'm at home now so I don't have access to my capacities and service lube data base.

You should be able to find it on a Google search of 2004 ford cobra mustang coolant capacity,

Obviously doing a dry fill is going to be a tall order with block drains and heater core involved.

I would just open it up at the cap and burp plug and drain at the radiator whatever you happen to get to come out.
 
Last edited:

Banshee06

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2009
Messages
387
Location
Oregon
The cap I have now is the old school one that screws way down and tight and it leaks less with that design.
When you fill from the fill hole it fills the tank to the brim to get it to the top of the fill hole. so by now after losing a lot of fluid it is probably down about 3 to 4 inches from the top. It is leaking less but when I got back from a long drive it left a trail and a puddle in the drive way.
 

Jimmysidecarr

Semi user friendly
Established Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Messages
14,395
Location
Spring, Texas, United States
The cap I have now is the old school one that screws way down and tight and it leaks less with that design.
When you fill from the fill hole it fills the tank to the brim to get it to the top of the fill hole. so by now after losing a lot of fluid it is probably down about 3 to 4 inches from the top. It is leaking less but when I got back from a long drive it left a trail and a puddle in the drive way.

Once the coolant reaches the point I want to use for the cold full level in the rad tank, I have to cap it right then and continue to slowly fill from the burp plug location.

If you open the rad tank after completing the fill procedure make sure the burp plug is sealed closed first! Or a bunch of fluid will all flow down into the rad tank over filling it and letting in a bunch of new air from the burp plug.:bash:
 
Last edited:

Brutal Metal

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2009
Messages
10,571
Location
Largo Florida
Quoting the Ford article above..
"Crack open the degas bottle cap enough to allow the coolant level in the funnel to drop to within 1 inch of the bottom of the funnel.
Tighten the cap.
Remove the funnel and install the fill plug in the crossover tube.
Add coolant in the degas bottle to the full coolant line."


It was my understanding that you DON'T open the degas bottle after coolant has been poured into the crossover after the engine is started?
 

P49Y-CY

fomocomofo
Established Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2003
Messages
11,217
Location
southwest
I'm at home now so I don't have access to my capacities and service lube data base.

You should be able to find it on a Google search of 2004 ford cobra mustang coolant capacity,(looks like it might be this-> total dry fill would be 7.4 gallons)

jimmy the total engine cooling system capacity for our cars is only 16.1 qts (15.2 liters), which is right about 4 gallons. that's right out of the factory service manual and the supplemental svt owners manual.

you can get about a gallon at the radiator, another gallon (or a little more) at the t-stat, and (if you can get to both of them) block plugs would yield probably a bit more than a third gallon, and then the rest in the heater core and hoses.
 

Jimmysidecarr

Semi user friendly
Established Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Messages
14,395
Location
Spring, Texas, United States
jimmy the total engine cooling system capacity for our cars is only 16.1 qts (15.2 liters), which is right about 4 gallons. that's right out of the factory service manual and the supplemental svt owners manual.

you can get about a gallon at the radiator, another gallon (or a little more) at the t-stat, and (if you can get to both of them) block plugs would yield probably a bit more than a third gallon, and then the rest in the heater core and hoses.

Thank you!:rockon::beer: When I post from home I don't have that info in front of me, and when I am at work I rarely have time to check back here.

Thank you very much.
 
Last edited:

utfan98

Lack of Restraint
Established Member
Joined
May 20, 2005
Messages
1,897
Location
MI
I need to do this..still on original coolant.

You are lucky the freeze plugs are still in the block being in NJ. My father-in-law had a plug get pushed out over the winter on his non Cobra car only after 3 years (2008 model) of not changing the coolant.

Changing the coolant is as important as changing the oil, a must if you live in freezing climates.
 

utfan98

Lack of Restraint
Established Member
Joined
May 20, 2005
Messages
1,897
Location
MI
Another thing is put anti seize on the threads of the cross-over plug. Tighten it after car cools down to about 3 ft lbs.
 

Turbo98

FR500TT
Established Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2006
Messages
1,142
Location
MIssouri
Ok. I have a question regarding this. I read something that described a different way to do it but after reading this, I don't think I did this correctly. I replaced the radiator so I needed to re-fill the coolant. I filled the coolant tank until the full line but did NOT replace the cap. I then started filling it through the CC tube until it filled up the tank completely. I then installed the expansion tank cap and continued filling through the tube until full. I started the car and got it fully warmed up then shut it down and let it cool overnight. I looked at the tank level and it is down a little bit but basically still filled up to the top (completely full--past the full line). I also took the CC plug out (with the tank cap off) and the level is down in the tube also. So now after reading this, it appears I did several things wrong. So where do I go from here to get this thing filled up correctly? I don't think the expansion tank should be filled to the brim when done, correct?

Thanks for the help.
 

Jimmysidecarr

Semi user friendly
Established Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Messages
14,395
Location
Spring, Texas, United States
Ok. I have a question regarding this. I read something that described a different way to do it but after reading this, I don't think I did this correctly. I replaced the radiator so I needed to re-fill the coolant. I filled the coolant tank until the full line but did NOT replace the cap. I then started filling it through the CC tube until it filled up the tank completely. I then installed the expansion tank cap and continued filling through the tube until full. I started the car and got it fully warmed up then shut it down and let it cool overnight. I looked at the tank level and it is down a little bit but basically still filled up to the top (completely full--past the full line). I also took the CC plug out (with the tank cap off) and the level is down in the tube also. So now after reading this, it appears I did several things wrong. So where do I go from here to get this thing filled up correctly? I don't think the expansion tank should be filled to the brim when done, correct?

Thanks for the help.

Correct!

Coolant will expand and in a V8 car there is a lot of coolant to expand.
Leave about two inches in the rad tank, seal it, then fill the rest through the crossover.

Then check it cold after the next three or four drive cycles at the burp plug, after relieving the rad cap pressure but RESEALING IT PRIOR TO removing the burp cap.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top