Just picked up a 2014 GT at Texas direct in Houston yesterday for 25.5k and it has 36k miles on her. The paint hasn’t been taken care of that well and instead of using my rupes or flex I thought I’d bust out my old friend, the PC 7424xp. Anyone have any pad/chemical combo recommendations to help bring her back to life?
‘14 DIB paint correction
- Thread starter jdcobra
- Start date
I bought a new 14 DIB and had some water spots and dealer handywork to correct. Ended up with HD cut for the tough stuff on LC force orange and 3401.
Paint seems soft on this car, scratches fairly easy. My wife has a 13 Taurus, same color, much harder paint.
Paint seems soft on this car, scratches fairly easy. My wife has a 13 Taurus, same color, much harder paint.
Thanks for the help guys. It’s been a while since I’ve detailed (bout a year) and I don’t want to take the easy way out so to speak. If all else fails I can use my rupes LHR 15 if all else fails. I want to see how well I can correct the paint with technique using the 7424xp. Definitely gonna seal it after! Just moved so my garage is currently in shambles lol
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@NastyGT500 would be the person to get good advice from. He is legit
Blue 07 is legit also. If you are looking for good information hes the guy. Those pictures speak very clearly to the work and experience he has!!!
Thanks for the referrals/trust guys! Appreciate it!
I PM'd JD this, but also wanted to share with the open forum in case it can help anyone else.
Hey JD, happy to help if I can! Excellent color choice BTW, love it! Thanks for the pics of the defects too. They help!
Why shy away from the Rupes/Flex? They would make quick work of your car IMO. They are great machines, unless you are not comfortable with them, then don't use them. The PC is a great piece as well. They have corrected thousands of vehicles over the years so they are perfectly capable.
OK: I feel as if this paint will be on the 'soft to medium soft' side. Starting point(s)--Meg's M105 and M205 combo. 105 is the heavy hitter, 205 is the finisher.
HD/3D Cut and Polish. Same as above but doesn't dust nearly as much as Meg's does.
Griot's Heavy Correcting crème, correcting crème, and perfecting/finishing polish/crème. Great products. I feel like you may be able to get away with the correcting and perfecting/finishing in this line.
If you already have pads, you will need a few to try-cut, polish, finishing pads.
REMEMBER: ALWAYS START WITH THE LEAST AGGRESSIVE METHOD FIRST. That is-start with the 'lightest' cutting/correcting product and pads you have and do a test spot and see what your results are. This is really important!
It will tell you what your paint 'likes' as well as save you some clearcoat in the process by not going super heavy first and removing unnecessary clear. You just want to remove the defects.
Hope this helps! I'll post this in your thread as well!
Regards,
Scott
Autodermatology
Naples, FL
I PM'd JD this, but also wanted to share with the open forum in case it can help anyone else.
Hey JD, happy to help if I can! Excellent color choice BTW, love it! Thanks for the pics of the defects too. They help!
Why shy away from the Rupes/Flex? They would make quick work of your car IMO. They are great machines, unless you are not comfortable with them, then don't use them. The PC is a great piece as well. They have corrected thousands of vehicles over the years so they are perfectly capable.
OK: I feel as if this paint will be on the 'soft to medium soft' side. Starting point(s)--Meg's M105 and M205 combo. 105 is the heavy hitter, 205 is the finisher.
HD/3D Cut and Polish. Same as above but doesn't dust nearly as much as Meg's does.
Griot's Heavy Correcting crème, correcting crème, and perfecting/finishing polish/crème. Great products. I feel like you may be able to get away with the correcting and perfecting/finishing in this line.
If you already have pads, you will need a few to try-cut, polish, finishing pads.
REMEMBER: ALWAYS START WITH THE LEAST AGGRESSIVE METHOD FIRST. That is-start with the 'lightest' cutting/correcting product and pads you have and do a test spot and see what your results are. This is really important!
It will tell you what your paint 'likes' as well as save you some clearcoat in the process by not going super heavy first and removing unnecessary clear. You just want to remove the defects.
Hope this helps! I'll post this in your thread as well!
Regards,
Scott
Autodermatology
Naples, FL
Thanks for the info man! I just moved in the new house this week and got the garage somewhat settled. Found my PC, pads, compounds, and towels. Attached is a couple pics of me using a LC orange pad, PC 7424xp (setting 5), and megs 205.
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Nice! You are working it well. Keep it up and post up some final pics!
Thanks! Just slow even pressure with about 4 section passes is all I’ve been doing. Because this is my daily, do you recommend that I seal it after all three steps? Or would just waxing it and being careful washing it with the two bucket method suffice?
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Nasty is who your asking but I will chime in as a recent convert to coating the daily drivers in my fleet.
So much easier to keep clean.
Good luck.
So much easier to keep clean.
Good luck.
Coating FTW! If you don't want to go that route, either way will suffice. (all LSP's can be marred/scratched, however, coatings are a bit more resistant to it) So, yes, proper maintenance will go a long way in keeping it looking it's best.
Thanks for the gentle reminder that I need to PC my 14 DIB. I like using Klasse polish, then their sealant.
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