After some research, I decided to replace the stock H/E pump on my 2008 GT500 (VMP/AFCO H/E and VMP oversize reservoir) with the one from a '13/'14. I had three choices for location. Stock position above the H/E, on the engine like the '13/'14, or on the driver side frame rail behind the bumper. I canned the stock location because it blocks too much radiator real estate. I had trouble visualizing the engine location, so I ordered the factory bracket assembly and a power steering pressure hose that would have to be moved and modified. That looked like asking for frustration and pain. That left the frame location. More research. I found this picture from an article that Justin at VMP had something to do with.
While the picture was a major help, I didn't like the Adel clamp holding the pump on with one bolt. I couldn't identify the molded hose going to the H/E and couldn't tell how the hose from the reservoir was routed. Also, my horns are on the other side of the car IN FRONT OF THE RADIATOR. So! Time to start bumbling ahead.
Here's a list of items I used:
Purchased:
DR3Z-8501-A '13/'14 Pump $263.51 AutoNation (Tousley)
DR3Z-8N500-B Bracket (Rt Side of Pump) $13.16 "
DR3Z-8N500-C Bracket (Lt Side of Pump) $8.22 "
DR3Z-8N500-A Bracket (Main) $23.44 "
DR3Z-14A411-C Wire Assy (Plugs into Pump) $6.09 "
Conn-75571 EV1 Injector Connector Kit $4.99 Ballenger Motorsports
(Plugs into Old Pump Cable) ( www.bmotorsports.com )
Gates 3/4" Heater Hose (6ft, more or less) $10.14 O'Reilly Auto Parts
White and Black 18ga. Wire (6ft each) $6.99 ea./40'
Several 6mm-1.0 Bolts & Nuts
Tools:
Metric Common Hand Tools
Nutsert Tool and 6mm Nutserts (optional)
or
Self-Tapping Bolts
Power Drill and Bits
Soldering Iron and Solder
From My Scrap Bin:
Aluminum Bar Stock (1 1/2"x1/8"x~7")
Aluminum 3/4" Thick Wall Tubing (Less than 5")
Plastic Wire Loom
The first thing I did, because it was easy, was to relocate the horns using the aluminum bar stock. Picture is self-explanatory.
Next, I decided to see if there was a way to use the very sturdy '13/'14 mounting assembly on the frame. Well, it was better than I could have hoped. Note the aluminum tube spacer on the bottom bolt.
Here are the nutserts to help you locate the holes.
Next came bolting the pump to the bracket. The B & C brackets surround the pump and then bolt to the A bracket on the frame. The first fitting had the pump slanting down toward the rear of the car. Time to start bending stuff. Actually, it took some minor bending to the main bracket and also to the pump clamping brackets. There's another aluminum spacer below the nut and behind the elongated hole at the bottom of the assembly.
Well, it's mounted and it's solid. Go to Post #2 for the electrical.
While the picture was a major help, I didn't like the Adel clamp holding the pump on with one bolt. I couldn't identify the molded hose going to the H/E and couldn't tell how the hose from the reservoir was routed. Also, my horns are on the other side of the car IN FRONT OF THE RADIATOR. So! Time to start bumbling ahead.
Here's a list of items I used:
Purchased:
DR3Z-8501-A '13/'14 Pump $263.51 AutoNation (Tousley)
DR3Z-8N500-B Bracket (Rt Side of Pump) $13.16 "
DR3Z-8N500-C Bracket (Lt Side of Pump) $8.22 "
DR3Z-8N500-A Bracket (Main) $23.44 "
DR3Z-14A411-C Wire Assy (Plugs into Pump) $6.09 "
Conn-75571 EV1 Injector Connector Kit $4.99 Ballenger Motorsports
(Plugs into Old Pump Cable) ( www.bmotorsports.com )
Gates 3/4" Heater Hose (6ft, more or less) $10.14 O'Reilly Auto Parts
White and Black 18ga. Wire (6ft each) $6.99 ea./40'
Several 6mm-1.0 Bolts & Nuts
Tools:
Metric Common Hand Tools
Nutsert Tool and 6mm Nutserts (optional)
or
Self-Tapping Bolts
Power Drill and Bits
Soldering Iron and Solder
From My Scrap Bin:
Aluminum Bar Stock (1 1/2"x1/8"x~7")
Aluminum 3/4" Thick Wall Tubing (Less than 5")
Plastic Wire Loom
The first thing I did, because it was easy, was to relocate the horns using the aluminum bar stock. Picture is self-explanatory.
Next, I decided to see if there was a way to use the very sturdy '13/'14 mounting assembly on the frame. Well, it was better than I could have hoped. Note the aluminum tube spacer on the bottom bolt.
Here are the nutserts to help you locate the holes.
Next came bolting the pump to the bracket. The B & C brackets surround the pump and then bolt to the A bracket on the frame. The first fitting had the pump slanting down toward the rear of the car. Time to start bending stuff. Actually, it took some minor bending to the main bracket and also to the pump clamping brackets. There's another aluminum spacer below the nut and behind the elongated hole at the bottom of the assembly.
Well, it's mounted and it's solid. Go to Post #2 for the electrical.
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