2 valve vs 2001 cobra 4v.

Sandford98

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Hey guys so I have 2 different paths I can take at this point and I need some help deciding. Before we did in I have a 2003 Mustang GT 5 speed. Has 140K on it. 78mm BBK throttle body. 410 gears. I love this car and WILL NOT sell it for a 2001 cobra. Right now I have the opportunity to buy a 2001 cobra motor that runs for 1000$ comes with exhaust manifolds and everything from intake to pan besides alternator and coolant crossover bar. So the swap would be very cheap. Is it worth it or should I just start dumping money into the old 2 valve. The end goal is a turbo setup. But within a month of having the cobra engine I want to order a NX wet system. Street car only with the occasional 1/8th mile run Thoughts? Any help would be great (also posted on new edge)
 

strokedsvt

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The 2V engine is great, but will never compete with a 4V when you start modding IMO. It really depends on how many miles are on the 4V though because without new pistons neither motor will take a lot of abuse especially if your planning to spray the car. 4V is a better platform hands down, but both need to be built to handle the power and tuning is essential!
 

Sandford98

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The 2V engine is great, but will never compete with a 4V when you start modding IMO. It really depends on how many miles are on the 4V though because without new pistons neither motor will take a lot of abuse especially if your planning to spray the car. 4V is a better platform hands down, but both need to be built to handle the power and tuning is essential!
4v only has 65xxx miles and yeah that's kind of the route I'm leaning towards
 

strokedsvt

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With a lower mile 4V I would go the same route I did with mine and do it all over again. Get some good pistons and freshen up the motor, upgrade the oil pump and oil pan while it's out and of course make sure the timing chain and tensenors are in good shape. After that throw a wet shot on the car and spray 150 until you plan for more power and then you can upgrade to a sc setup in the future. Biggest thing is price out everything before hand because the total cost going either route will start adding up quickly haha
 

Ashlander

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Get the 4V. It's a great engine, I swapped one in from a Mach after the 2V in my GT blew up. Whenever I move onto the next Mustang, I'm either pulling this motor out for it, or getting an actual Mach 1. No more 2V for me.

I would put these on the must-do list before buttoning up the engine and dropping it in though.

-Replace the timing components, or at the very least the chain guides and tensioners. Even if they look fine, they are a common failure point, and it's better to start off on a clean slate. Use the aluminum guides and the ratcheting iron tensioners.

-Swap the intake cams out for 96-98 Cobra cams. They have a longer duration and will net you more HP at the cost of a little low end torque. The Mach engine gains about 20 peak HP, I know the 01 Cobra intakes are slightly longer duration so it'll probably be a bit less than that. As a bonus, get the Cloyes HP9 adjustable crank gear to advance them. I don't remember the exact timing to set them to, I skipped this and just put them in dot-dot due to budget/timeframe restrictions, but you regain the low end torque without sacrificing the top end if you advance them.

-Also suggest getting one of the head cooling mods since cylinders 7 and 8 have poor coolant flow and tend to be the cause of problems when they arise.

Less important but, but since the engine will be out and apart anyway, you might want to find a full length windage tray from the 05+ GTs. Grind the baffle off the bottom of the oil pan for clearance and you're good to go. I picked a newish one up on Ebay for about $25.

You can also use the GT PCM and engine harness, thats actually the easiest way. You'll obviously need a tune, but it sounds like you'll be doing that anyway if you're going to spray
 

Corbic

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$1k?

Buy the 4v and build it since it's out.

Rods, Pistons, head cooling mod. Get the valve covers all painted nice. I'd do cams as well since it's out, just need to plan on your FI setup.

4V looks way better and has more potential. WAP block is plenty strong for the street and the forge crank is a huge step up.

At $1k you can't go wrong. You could part it out and make all your money back and then some.
 

01yellercobra

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$1k?

Buy the 4v and build it since it's out.

Rods, Pistons, head cooling mod. Get the valve covers all painted nice. I'd do cams as well since it's out, just need to plan on your FI setup.

4V looks way better and has more potential. WAP block is plenty strong for the street and the forge crank is a huge step up.

At $1k you can't go wrong. You could part it out and make all your money back and then some.

I agree with everything but the cams. Stock cams can make 600+ without tuning or driveability issues. Plus the extra money needed for the cams and springs.
 

Sandford98

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Thank you everybody for the input. Will definitely be getting the 4v motor. A buddy of mine just got some Manley rods used and the guy threw in some stock forged mahle pistons that are forged and appear to be in great condition. They're 830 new and look almost new so I'm going to get some Manley rods and a forged crank and hopefully spray a decent shot. Will be end of summer before all is done but should be fun!
 

Ashlander

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