2001 cobra built engine d1 procharger first time at the track

[01yellercobra]

Solid axle > IRS at the track

And that isn't just my opinion.

I think there might be a different section on the board for making your car ride smooth on the road.

I said in my original post that the SRA would be better if he's going to run at the track a lot. But if the track is going to be a once in a while thing to keep the IRS. You said the SRA is better all around. I was pointing out that's your opinion. Not everyone shares it.

Because it's bad to have a car that rides good and handles well.

 

[Stopsign32v]

I said in my original post that the SRA would be better if he's going to run at the track a lot. But if the track is going to be a once in a while thing to keep the IRS. You said the SRA is better all around. I was pointing out that's your opinion. Not everyone shares it.

Because it's bad to have a car that rides good and handles well.

Hmmm well we are in the drag race section so....

 

[WhiTriCobra]

I've had both too, 03 Cobra, and while I did like it and drag ever so often, I prefer the SWA over the IRS. I felt I could hit the twisties just as good with a SRA. Plus just the weight difference or having weak half shafts....always worried about the half shafts when I hit the track back then.
But I know too, some like the blue pill...some like the red pill....

 

[01yellercobra]

Hmmm well we are in the drag race section so....

I'm fully aware which section it is. I clicked on this post because I used to own a ZY 01 Cobra with a D1. He asked which way he should go with the rear end. I gave him my opinion about it. And I'm also aware it's just my opinion. It's his car and his money.

But apparently we can't post in other sections. So I'll take myself back to the Terminator section. Enjoy your day.

 

[Shadow Grey 03]

The stock 3.27s are killing your car at the strip too. A 3.90 or 4.10 would help a ton.

 

[mcusack336]

Yea so been Doing some reading around and seems sra is the way I wanna go.

Would you guys suggest pulling one from a junkyard from a gt or buying a moser 9" rear?

Guess I'm more wondering if the gt can hold up to some power. Car will be getting retuned when I can drive it again and going on corn as well as turning the boost up a bit. Hoping to be about 550 wheel or so.

I would also guess it would be easier to do the rear end when I do the trans at the same time.

Hit the track Friday and I think 90 mph is all I'm gunna get out of my current situation. Bad 60's, mostly due to my inexperience and having really no clue what to launch at. Trial and error, think a solid rear will help though with the wheel hop issue though

 

[mcusack336]

The stock 3.27s are killing your car at the strip too. A 3.90 or 4.10 would help a ton.

I agree. I'm barely shifting into third at the very end of the track. Just drops my Rpms too much

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

i feel like a 9" is waaaaay overkill. The 8.8 with 31 spline axles and diff, weld the diff tubes and youre set. Ive seen other people trade their IRS for a solid rear + cash. Then again if you do all that it doesnt matter what shape it would be from a junkyard as youd be replacing everything anyway (so long as it was straight)

did you look into the full tilt boogie stop the hop kit or whatever it is?

 

[mcusack336]

i feel like a 9" is waaaaay overkill. The 8.8 with 31 spline axles and diff, weld the diff tubes and youre set. Ive seen other people trade their IRS for a solid rear + cash. Then again if you do all that it doesnt matter what shape it would be from a junkyard as youd be replacing everything anyway (so long as it was straight)

did you look into the full tilt boogie stop the hop kit or whatever it is?

Alright well I'll be on the lookout for a swap plus cash then.

I did look into it but that with subframe connectors is about the price of a sra swap. Think I'd rather go that route. I didn't buy the car to road race. I drive it on the weekends and take it to the track every now and then

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

Subframe connectors would be used either way

 

[mcusack336]

Subframe connectors would be used either way

Oh alright. Still figuring this all out

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

Well I guess they do call it an IRS subframe assembly. The weld in subframe connectors are for the frame of the car lengthwise. If you look under there's a big section that's just the floor pan of the car tying the two halves together. Weld in full length subframe connectors connect the two halves

 

[SVTPete83]

Subframe connectors are an absolute must. I run 10s at 130 with 31 spline gorilla axles and a stock rebuilt posi unit in an 8.8 and 4.10s. 580whp. I also have stock upper control arms, aftermarket bushings and max Motorsport adjustable lowers. I still run away bars and tokicho adjustable shocks. I have road raced it one day and dragged it the next. I would seriously look at a full tilt setup for your IRS. It would be pretty easy to do and I have heard they eliminate a ton of the wheel hop. If you're replacing the tranny beef up the clutch as well. It will become the weak link with good traction. I run a McCould RXT and it's the best mod I have done to the car. Good luck!


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[Shadow Grey 03]

I agree. The 8.8 is strong enough with certain upgrades. Like everyone else said, 31 spline axles with a good carrier, welded tubes and some kind of bracing, 9" ends welded on are good too, and a better gear.
I run a CHE brace to keep the rubes from bending. I had to have my rear end re-straightened once and then put that brace on with no issues since.

 

[SVTPete83]

And get good studs for the axles. ARP or something as good. I bent all my studs on a launch one time. That was a bitch to get the tire off when it happened.


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[apex svt]

Agree on 8.8 over 9in. We got a car in the 7's with an 8.8. Also been told it takes less power to turn an 8.8 over a 9in but that I'm totally unsure of