315 BFG + 17x10.5" + Cobra IRS = tire rub (DUW)

wjfawb0

Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2003
Messages
684
Location
McDonald TN
SEE END OF THREAD FOR RESOLUTION


Hey all. Here is the history of my wheel tire combo.

Started off stock 17x9 with 275/40-17 F1s all around.

2003_9_7_Cobra3.jpg


Wore out the stock rear tires in about 4 months(12,000 miles). Got 315/35-17 nittos on two 17x10.5s for the back. Also bought 1" hubcentric H&R wheel spacers to prevent the IRS bolt from touching the tire sidewall when the suspension was unloaded. Needed the spacers stock, but after grinding down the IRS bolt heads about halfway the nittos would clear the IRS bolts without the spacers.

Without 1" (25mm)spacer:
2004_2_11_Nittos%20007_small.jpg


With 1" (25mm) spacer:
2004_2_11_Nittos%20014_small.jpg



Nittos wore out after just 2 months(6,000 miles). I bought GS-D3 goodyears to put all around the car on the stock rims. 275/40-17 on the front and 285/40-17 on the back.

Dsc00113.jpg


Worn out nitto on left(meaning not safe at all in any amount of rain at highway speeds):

Dsc00208.jpg


3.5 months (11,000 miles) later the rear 285 GS-D3s are past the wear bars (2/32" tread). The tires cause the rear end to get squirrelly in a decent amount of rain at anything above 65mph. :( Time for new 285s for the rear.

Wore out 285 GS-D3:
Dsc00200.jpg



While waiting for the new GS-D3s I bought some 315/35-17 BFG drag radials from tire rack for $138 each. I get them mounted on my 17x10.5 wheels and test fit them. I expected the sidewalls to touch the IRS bolt with the suspension unloaded (BFG 315 much wider than nitto 315), but I didn't expect the sidewall and IRS braket to both touch the sidewall with the suspension unloaded and loaded(car sitting on the ground). :eek:


Left = BFG 315 on 10.5", Right = 285 GS-D3 on 9"
Dsc00191.jpg


BFG
Dsc00192.jpg


GS-D3
Dsc00193.jpg


BFG touches IRS bolt and support with suspension loaded and unloaded
Dsc00194.jpg

Dsc00195.jpg

Dsc00196.jpg



285 GS-D3 on 17x9" rim is no where near touching shaved IRS bolthead
Dsc00205.jpg

Dsc00198.jpg

Dsc00199.jpg

Dsc00197.jpg


BFG from side
Dsc00202.jpg


GS-D3 from side
Dsc00201.jpg


comparison of BFG 315 and GS-D3 285
Dsc00203.jpg


BFG 315 vs Nitto 315 comparison
Dsc00208.jpg


So, now I am looking to get a 1/4" to 1/2" spacer and some longer wheels studs so I can run the BFGs at the track. What has been other's experiences with the BFG 315/35-17s on 17x10.5" rims??? Did you use the 1" hubcentric spacers with integral studs, or did you get longer studs and a simple spacer??? I sold my fricken 1" spacers not expecting to have this problem(wasn't planning on the BFGs). Bummer. :( At least a fellow 03 cobra owner is enjoying them now. :)


Thanks.

-Jason
 
Last edited:

03redfiresnake

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2003
Messages
564
Location
frederick, md
I run the same wheels and tires, I got the 1/2" hubcentric spacers and moroso wheel studs from maximum motorsports, they work great and put the tire flush with the wheel well, like the front. One thing, the stock lock lug nuts will have the ends pop off with the longer studs, mine both popped off after some driving. If you could find 3/8" hubcentic spacers they would fit also - if your wheel alignment is pretty close on both sides. I hope this helps - my mechanic had to remove the hub to press in the bolts , they could not be drawn in with the air ratchet like mm had said . BTW, you will love the bfg's on the track, they are awesome !!!!!!!I found 16 lbs of pressure and smoking them up before each run = no wheel hop !!!!!
 
Last edited:

wjfawb0

Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2003
Messages
684
Location
McDonald TN
Originally posted by 03redfiresnake
I run the same wheels and tires, I got the 1/2" hubcentric spacers and moroso wheel studs from maximum motorsports, they work great and put the tire flush with the wheel well, like the front. One thing, the stock lock lug nuts will have the ends pop off with the longer studs, mine both popped off after some driving. If you could find 3/8" hubcentic spacers they would fit also - if your wheel alignment is pretty close on both sides. I hope this helps - my mechanic had to remove the hub to press in the bolts , they could not be drawn in with the air ratchet like mm had said .

Thanks for the info. :beer: I would go with the 1/2" spacer just to be safe myself. The only thing that worries me about the longer studs is the possibility of having to press them in. :(
At least I am glad they came out with the hubcentric 1/2".

-Jason
 

03redfiresnake

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2003
Messages
564
Location
frederick, md
I was planning on getting a set of DS-G3's , but I might stick with the BFG's seeing how low of milage you got out of them, excellent price on the BFG's also !!!!thanks for the info !!!
 

wjfawb0

Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2003
Messages
684
Location
McDonald TN
Originally posted by 03redfiresnake
I think the shop I brought it to only charged 150 or so for the pressing in of the studs.
mark

The GS-D3s would last longer for most than for me. I enjoy spinning them around town too much. :) The stock F1s only lasted me 12,000 miles or so. The nittos only lasted me around 6,000 miles. I am hard on tires on the street.
:( $$$

-Jason
 

Joe King

Visual molester
Established Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2002
Messages
575
Location
NY
Very strange...I have 315/18's BFG DR's on AFS 10.5" wheels w/NO SPACER & do not touch the bracket or bolt when car is on the ground...Just shows you the "tolerance" from car to car.

I suggest you try ..1/4" spacers w/o changing lugs, just buy the AFS extended lug nuts ($1ea.) You'll have ample thread engagement.

To see if this is enough I suggest you make a stack of washers equal to the expected spacer (1/4" to begin with) then put the wheel on & see if it is enough...this way you don't have to buy any unnecessary spacers. If it rubs w/ 1/4"...add a washer or 2 to each stud...until you get the desired clearance.

Don't worry about the tire hitting the IRS bolt when the car is off the ground...unless you'll be driving in the remake of "Bullitt".
 

wjfawb0

Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2003
Messages
684
Location
McDonald TN
Originally posted by Joe King
Very strange...I have 315/18's BFG DR's on AFS 10.5" wheels w/NO SPACER & do not touch the bracket or bolt when car is on the ground...Just shows you the "tolerance" from car to car.

I suggest you try ..1/4" spacers w/o changing lugs, just buy the AFS extended lug nuts ($1ea.) You'll have ample thread engagement.

To see if this is enough I suggest you make a stack of washers equal to the expected spacer (1/4" to begin with) then put the wheel on & see if it is enough...this way you don't have to buy any unnecessary spacers. If it rubs w/ 1/4"...add a washer or 2 to each stud...until you get the desired clearance.

Don't worry about the tire hitting the IRS bolt when the car is off the ground...unless you'll be driving in the remake of "Bullitt".

Well, I actually had to tighten down the bolts to get the tire sidewall to touch the support bracket, but the bolt head pressed into the sidewall quite a distance. When I lowered the car to the ground, the bolt head was still pressed into the sidewall a significant amount. I would not want the sidewall to touch the IRS bolthead even if it only touches when fully unloaded. I have gone airborn a few times--probably twice it was accidental on unfamiliar roads going only slightly faster than posted speeds. :eek:

I don't want to risk tearing out the sidewall of the tire. Your washer method to find the exact size spacer is a good test though. Thanks for your thoughts. :thumbsup:
-Jason
 

Z O SICK

New Member
Established Member
Joined
May 7, 2004
Messages
1,322
Location
Sierra Vista, AZ
Originally posted by Joe King
Very strange...I have 315/18's BFG DR's on AFS 10.5" wheels w/NO SPACER & do not touch the bracket or bolt when car is on the ground...Just shows you the "tolerance" from car to car.

I have the same set up and have no problems at all. I still have stock springs for now, pro-kit is on the way.
 

wjfawb0

Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2003
Messages
684
Location
McDonald TN
Originally posted by JSTA46

"Very strange...I have 315/18's BFG DR's on AFS 10.5" wheels w/NO SPACER & do not touch the bracket or bolt when car is on the ground...Just shows you the "tolerance" from car to car."

I have the same set up and have no problems at all. I still have stock springs for now, pro-kit is on the way.

I have 17x10.5" replica wheels and not AFS. I wonder if the back spacing is different by a few millimeters?
 

wjfawb0

Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2003
Messages
684
Location
McDonald TN
UPDATE:

I bought 1/2" hubcentric spacers, moroso studs, and gorilla open lug nuts from MM. Here is what is going on:

First of all, I'd like to thank Rhonda for answering the phone after 8PM tonight and Tim for helping me get my rear caliper back on the car. :thumbsup: Modular Powerhouse kicks arse. (I pulled the parking brake with the caliper off the rotor and it extended the piston. To retract the piston and allow me to get the caliper back over the pads and rotor, I had to twist the piston head in clockwise using needle nose pliers.) Thanks again Tim.

OK, so here's what happened tonight. I pulled the driver's side wheel (13/16" socket) and removed the caliper (12mm wrench) and bracket (15mm wrench) holding the pads. You have to also disconnect the parking brake cable from the spring perch (8mm screw) so that some slack will be available in the cable to allow you to move the caliper out of the way. I then removed the rotor. I sprayed penetrating oil on the front and back of the studs.

I used two 5"+ C-clamps and piece of brass to press out the first stock stud. Doing this by yourself is kinda tricky, but do-able (I managed somehow). I positioned the c-clamps on either side of the stud and twisted each one 90* alternating back and forth until the stud unseated and popped out. You can use a small hammer to tap on the ends of the clamps while under pressure to unseat the stock studs.

Dsc00209.jpg


Dsc00210.jpg


Success!!!! On the IRS, you can get the short stock studs out and the longer aftermarket studs in around the 2 o'clock position on the spindle(driver's side 10 o'clock on the passenger side).

Dsc00211.jpg


Then, I inserted the new moroso stud and used four 1/2" washers with a junky advanced auto parts lug nut to pull in the new stud. I coated the new stud threads with anti-seize to make the seating easier.

Dsc00212.jpg


Dsc00213.jpg


Now, the stud drew up pretty easily. About the time it was almost fully seated, the wrench turned a little too easy. Schiot!!!! Did I strip the stud???? :eek:

After removing the socket I saw what happened.

Dsc00214.jpg


The stud was fine, the cheap lug nut stripped out its thread and coated the stud. I unwrapped the nut threads off the stud.

Dsc00215.jpg


Dsc00216.jpg


The new stud is in. :D I learned through out the process that I needed about 8 of the advanced crappy lug nuts. Each nut lasted about 1.5 new stud seatings. While cranking on the studs, the nuts heat up and eventually the threads fall out. The best thing about the cheap lugs is you can turn them around where the flat side of the nut presses against the washers and still get the socket over the end. The gorilla lugs I bought from MM have a collar which presses on the wheel that won't allow the socket over the nut from the other direction.

Dsc00217.jpg


So, be careful with the nuts. Once the stud is fully drawn up, stop wrenching on it.

I am going to try and finish the car this Sunday. I'll post pics then of the spacers, wheels and all mounted on the car.

-Jason
 
Last edited:

Crazee Horse

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2004
Messages
66
Location
Arlington, TX
If you have clearance you can press them in exactly like you removed them. You can also use a lubricant like soapy water to aid teh seating. It disipates and leaves no residual.
 

Ad Wizard

Love+Peace+BikeGrease
Established Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
192
Location
Austin
Great pics - very helpful! I plan on doing this soon myself.

One question - is there any way around using open-ended lug nuts? I think seeing the stud hanging out past the lug wouldn't look too good.

Is there a longer stud that's just a little shorter?:-D
 

wjfawb0

Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2003
Messages
684
Location
McDonald TN
Originally posted by Crazee Horse
If you have clearance you can press them in exactly like you removed them. You can also use a lubricant like soapy water to aid teh seating. It disipates and leaves no residual.

I started pressing them in that way. I put a long impact socket over the end of the stud and began using one clamp to press it in. It was difficult to keep the stud straight, so I reverted to the wrench and washers. Either way would work well though. With only one set of hands, the wrench and washers was easiest for me.

-Jason
 

Ryan00TJ

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2003
Messages
432
Location
Fairmont, WV
Damn you must burn the hell outta your tires!!! My GSD3's have 7K on them and look practically new. They are great tires, awesome wet traction and hook on pavement almost as good as a Nitto 555R. Pretty hard to beat for a street radial.
 

ofourcobra

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2004
Messages
84
Location
boston
so would i be safe with 18 x 10 and a half on my vert when its lowered?or are you guys saying that every car is different
 

wjfawb0

Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2003
Messages
684
Location
McDonald TN
Originally posted by ofourcobra
so would i be safe with 18 x 10 and a half on my vert when its lowered?or are you guys saying that every car is different


Every car is a little different. You might be ok while the car is on the ground. If you go airborne or jack up the car, I would imagine the bolthead and possibly the bracket would still contact the tire sidewall.
 

wjfawb0

Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2003
Messages
684
Location
McDonald TN
Well, it is all done. It is raining here, so I'll have to take pics tomorrow or the next day. I am going to retorque my lugs every couple days to make sure the new studs don't loosen up. It's over!!!! :beer:

-Jason
 

Miamifan1354

De Chapter of the MACA
Established Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2004
Messages
1,928
Location
Delaware
I'm going with 1/4 inch spacers and gonna grind the bolt. We fitted them on the car with the spacer, and the bolt does need to be grinded, but the nuts fit fine, and looks good.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top