97 Cobra IMRC actuator problem...

[Gecsr1]

Hello, I am new here Hello everyone,

I own a 1997 Mustang Cobra , bought new mileage under 17000, Developed IMRC code
P1519, so says stuck runner valves, I disassemeble clean, nothing appears to be stuck,
so perhaps the control actuator went bad, so it's off the car, is there any tests i can perform to check and see if it's good or bad before i put it back together ?
any help with be appreciated
Thank You

 

[98 svt]

@mwolson should be able to help you out.

 

[Gecsr1]

@mwolson should be able to help you out.

Okay please

 

[mwolson]

Sorry, I missed this thread.

You are in luck. I just finished my write-up about the anatomy of the IMRC unit, including how to test it. You can download it here:

https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/1975f84f-4935-4131-8404-5a914da1afb7/downloads/1bp5517nm_621358.pdf

Please read it and PM me with any errors or suggestions for improvements.

 

[98 svt]

Sorry, I missed this thread.

You are in luck. I just finished my write-up about the anatomy of the IMRC unit, including how to test it. You can download it here:

https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/1975f84f-4935-4131-8404-5a914da1afb7/downloads/1bp5517nm_621358.pdf

Please read it and PM me with any errors or suggestions for improvements.

Excellent write up Mark! Another killer job.
That should be a sticky me thinks.

 

[Gecsr1]

Excellent write up Mark! Another killer job.
That should be a sticky me thinks.

Hi, I just tested my actuator , and the ohm circut test was good, but the test with the motor mu actuator failed , the motor would not run... so either my problem is with something on the board or the motor. i did not try a and run the motor by bypassing the board i stopped .

i looked at the board it looked good... so i guess my actuator is bad

Gary

 

[mwolson]

I will try to fix it for you for free if you would like. I am setting myself up to repair them as a part of my business and want to prove that I can do it. So I will do the first few for free. I understand completely how the electronics work, and almost all of the components are easily obtained.

PM me if you are interested.

Mark

 

[Gecsr1]

I will try to fix it for you for free if you would like. I am setting myself up to repair them as a part of my business and want to prove that I can do it. So I will do the first few for free. I understand completely how the electronics work, and almost all of the components are easily obtained.

PM me if you are interested.

Mark

pm sent now as well
Gary

 

[98 svt]

^^^^^Take him up on this! ^^^^^
I had Mark repair the tach in my Cobra many moons ago. Great guy, great service, and very trustworthy. He's been on this site for 10+ years.

 

[Gecsr1]

^^^^^Take him up on this! ^^^^^
I had Mark repair the tach in my Cobra many moons ago. Great guy, great service, and very trustworthy. He's been on this site for 10+ years.

Yes I snse he is very honest and helpful.... I will be more than happy to send my actautor unit to him... I did pm him about it
Thank You for chimimg in with Your good words about him...

Gary

 

[RAIDERS]

Imma save this thread . In case I'm getting 97-98 cobra . That one of reason I'm have second though about getting this years cobra . And move up to 03-04 cobra

 

[Gecsr1]

Well Mark tested my actuator, I had a friend test it, but I guess he did one test wrong as he said it tested bad, he used a bench charger instead of a 12v battery .. so the actuator tested bad, sent it off to Mark,, and Mark tested it and its good....
well so now , I did clean the the runners , but they did not look bad.. and the car has under 17000 miles ..
when I get the actuator back, I will assemble the car , clear the code and will continue my search to find the problem, I'm thinking fuel pump...

Mark, Thank You for your help... Your are one first class guy...

 

[mwolson]

Thanks!

 

[Gecsr1]

Okay , got the IMRC unit back from Mark, assemebled the car, still doing the same thing as the runners or actuator is was not the problem, It starts and runs put then dies, I do not hear the fuel pump priming . with the key on i checked the inertsa switch in the trunk not seeing any voltage, so the fuel pump fuse is good so perhaps the ccmr control or the fuel pump relay and also something about a resistor on the relay , i'm told it has one near the pcm in the pass kick panel.
was hoping to get a diagnostic before throwing parts at it. to determine the proper repair
the car wont drive , so any help would be appreciated...
97 mustang cobra

gary

 

[mwolson]

Gary, I got your text.

First thing, is PATS working right? When I open my door, the theft light starts flashing. It keeps flashing when I put the key in the ignition. When I turn the key to On, the theft light goes on steady for a few seconds and then goes out. The car cranks and starts no problem. PATS can cause problems keeping a car running after you try to start it.

The fuel pump has a big resistor in series with it when off or running at low RPMs, so the 6.8V at the inertial shut-off is a little low, but it should be ok. The best thing is to check the fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. It should be at about 39 PSI with the key on, engine off. You can usually get a loaner or rental fuel pressure gauge from a local car parts store if you don't have one.

FYI, at higher RPMS the PCM closes a relay that shorts the big resistor out, supplying full current to the fuel pump.

 

[Gecsr1]

Gary, I got your text.

First thing, is PATS working right? When I open my door, the theft light starts flashing. It keeps flashing when I put the key in the ignition. When I turn the key to On, the theft light goes on steady for a few seconds and then goes out. The car cranks and starts no problem. PATS can cause problems keeping a car running after you try to start it.

The fuel pump has a big resistor in series with it when off or running at low RPMs, so the 6.8V at the inertial shut-off is a little low, but it should be ok. The best thing is to check the fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. It should be at about 39 PSI with the key on, engine off. You can usually get a loaner or rental fuel pressure gauge from a local car parts store if you don't have one.

FYI, at higher RPMS the PCM closes a relay that shorts the big resistor out, supplying full current to the fuel pump.

okay i went and borrowed a fuel pressure gauge, and when running I am at 10 psi, i assume to way low, talking with mark yesterday, it surely seems the fuel pump is the culpert, also Mark susgested that prehaps the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail is causing some problem and not working properly by letting the too much fuel return to the tank ,
so before lowering the tank and replacing the fuel pump, I ordered a fuel pressure regulator , and give that a try.... and yes I did first off when this all started , replaced the fuel filter....
also I frogot to do check the FP gauge with key and motor off , I will do that today.

okay with ignition, egime not running... on fuel pressure reading is zero..

Alos just unplugged the vaccum from the regulator and plugged the line, started the car it showed only 12 psi of FP.... the fuel pump must be toast..
will oder a new one today....


parts ordered...the wait begins....

 

[Gecsr1]

Well found the problem, dropped the tank and this is what I found check out the picture
Little hose that connects the pump to the pickup assembly ....
And I thought ford had a better idea

1997 Ford Mustang Cobra Rio Red under 17000 original miles , never driven in the rain... make me an offer ....
It,s runs perfect new pump and hose lol

 

[ZeroDCX]

Glad you found your issue!

Side note: This is exactly why people should spend the time to diagnose an issue before throwing money at parts. It could've been a lot worse though.