I have a BMR UCA control arm mount and adjustable arm,. The mount has two hole for the arm to mount to. Which hole do you use? The one closest to the mounting surface or the one on the outer end? Thanks
I have a BMR UCA control arm mount and adjustable arm,. The mount has two hole for the arm to mount to. Which hole do you use? The one closest to the mounting surface or the one on the outer end? Thanks
Hey HHR.....how's it going buddy? Did you buy the newer/longer UCA and mount designed for the 2013-14 models? I hear they bolt right in to our older models and provide better axle control. I haven't been over on this Forum much....glad I ran into ya!!
.... got the standard 07-10 UCA. I have checked around and it not really something I need as I am not going to be racing it. I know the larger later one is praised by Robert but it is overkill for me and Bj says he still has the stock size and he trashes the heck out of Christine. I have been lurking over on that "other" forum and have offered some advice thru pm's but still not accepting the leader as yet. Time will tell.
What are you running for LCA's? Do you have wheelhop issue with stock UCA?
I have Steeda poly LCA's and Roush poly UCA and I really wonder if I need all of that. I'd like to reduce NVH from the rear as much as possible.
Will not work with the stock sized bolt. 11+ is a larger diameter bolt. The bracket is threaded, there is no nut.To use the 2011+ BMR UCA & Mount does the larger bolt need to be used or will my 2008 stock bolt work?
Will not work with the stock sized bolt. 11+ is a larger diameter bolt. The bracket is threaded, there is no nut.
HHR, use the lower bolt if you're at stock ride height. Upper if you're lowered. Torque the arm to the bracket before you install. I don't know how it's possible to do that with the bracket installed. Make sure you use the plus size Torx socket to loosen then the tank straps to lower the tank. The fit of the tank strap bolt holt to the bolt is extremely tight and will fight you the entire time. It's easy to strip the head with the wrong socket.
Will not work with the stock sized bolt. 11+ is a larger diameter bolt. The bracket is threaded, there is no nut.
HHR, use the lower bolt if you're at stock ride height. Upper if you're lowered. Torque the arm to the bracket before you install. I don't know how it's possible to do that with the bracket installed. Make sure you use the plus size Torx socket to loosen then the tank straps to lower the tank. The fit of the tank strap bolt holt to the bolt is extremely tight and will fight you the entire time. It's easy to strip the head with the wrong socket.
To use the 2011+ BMR UCA & Mount does the larger bolt need to be used or will my 2008 stock bolt work?
Maybe Ford was looking towards the future with more HP in these cars and thought they needed a bigger bolt???
For those who had not seen my side-by-side compare pictures, here are the oem and BMR 2007-2010 (left) and 2011-up oem and BMR on right........
and then each one flipped over for the other side compare.......
.................................................................^^^^^ The oem UCM really got some structure added to it for 2011.
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and the oem 2007-2010, 2011-up Roush (center) and the oem 2011-up......
^^^^Note, overall lengths for the 2007-2010 and 2011-up are the same, it is UCA to UCM mounting point that changed, and Roush only changed the under seat bolt size while retaining the earlier overall structure and shorter arm design with the smaller thru-bolt. I guess it was less costly to just add the larger bolt mounting in the UCM than it was to do a redesign as Ford/SVT did?
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It's possible, but even the stock drive shaft has CV joints and one U-joint, so I don't see that much benefit to being able to set it.You seem to know the UCA setup stuff pretty good. My car (2010 Roush) is lowered (from Roush) and has the Roush UCA. Does this mean that my pinion angle is now wrong? Thanks.........
I guess it depends on how far out you are doing the drop and how much you drive it in the meantime. The angle might not be optimum, but it's not like you track the car either, so I don't think using the higher hole would hurt anything. I've pondered getting even a socket on the bolt while mounted in the car, I can't see it. If you can't get it tight once it's in the car, you will have a problem.Should I just use the upper mounting hole now and adjust or wait and take the whole thing out again at that time to change mount position? I was questioning the torquing of the arm to mount because the BMR instructions say to do it after the mount is bolted in. From what I have read so far that is near impossible to do.
It's possible, but even the stock drive shaft has CV joints and one U-joint, so I don't see that much benefit to being able to set it.