BMR UCA mount question

HillbillyHotRod

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I have a BMR UCA control arm mount and adjustable arm,. The mount has two hole for the arm to mount to. Which hole do you use? The one closest to the mounting surface or the one on the outer end? Thanks
 

SCGallo2

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The upper hole closest to the body works best on a street/strip car with lowered suspension.
 

blackcad55

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I have a BMR UCA control arm mount and adjustable arm,. The mount has two hole for the arm to mount to. Which hole do you use? The one closest to the mounting surface or the one on the outer end? Thanks

Hey HHR.....how's it going buddy? Did you buy the newer/longer UCA and mount designed for the 2013-14 models? I hear they bolt right in to our older models and provide better axle control. I haven't been over on this Forum much....glad I ran into ya!!
 

HillbillyHotRod

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Hey HHR.....how's it going buddy? Did you buy the newer/longer UCA and mount designed for the 2013-14 models? I hear they bolt right in to our older models and provide better axle control. I haven't been over on this Forum much....glad I ran into ya!!

Hey Greg
Nope got the standard 07-10 UCA. I have checked around and it not really something I need as I am not going to be racing it. I know the larger later one is praised by Robert but it is overkill for me and Bj says he still has the stock size and he trashes the heck out of Christine. I have been lurking over on that "other" forum and have offered some advice thru pm's but still not accepting the leader as yet. Time will tell.
 

Mojo88

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.... got the standard 07-10 UCA. I have checked around and it not really something I need as I am not going to be racing it. I know the larger later one is praised by Robert but it is overkill for me and Bj says he still has the stock size and he trashes the heck out of Christine. I have been lurking over on that "other" forum and have offered some advice thru pm's but still not accepting the leader as yet. Time will tell.

What are you running for LCA's? Do you have wheelhop issue with stock UCA?

I have Steeda poly LCA's and Roush poly UCA and I really wonder if I need all of that. I'd like to reduce NVH from the rear as much as possible.
 

HillbillyHotRod

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What are you running for LCA's? Do you have wheelhop issue with stock UCA?

I have Steeda poly LCA's and Roush poly UCA and I really wonder if I need all of that. I'd like to reduce NVH from the rear as much as possible.

I have non adjustable BMR lowers and there is not much wheel hop but does occur once in a while. Really just got a good deal on the UCA and mount and would like to just tighten it up a bit. With the lowers I do not really feel and more NVH then with the stock but that might just be me not being that sensitive to it.
 

Robert M

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I had a oem 2011-up UCA/UCM in my 2008 for a few weeks before I installed the 2011-up BMR, I found there to be no issues with the oem 2011-up unit in my 2008, and it was nice and quiet. I also have the 2011-up Roush with the tight/small bushing, it seems like it would be a nice compromise for less wheel hop and minimal NVH.

The 2011-up Roush UCA/UCM did not incorporate the longer arm and larger thru bolt as the oem did, but only upgraded the under seat bolt size to the 2011-up oem spec., other than that, it is very similar to the earlier oem design but with a small tighter bushing, but I'm sure it works well.

I wonder why Ford/SVT felt the need to upgrade the bolt under the rear seat on the 2011-up UCM??

Here is the comparo, 2007-2010 on left...........






R
 
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Catmonkey

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To use the 2011+ BMR UCA & Mount does the larger bolt need to be used or will my 2008 stock bolt work?
Will not work with the stock sized bolt. 11+ is a larger diameter bolt. The bracket is threaded, there is no nut.

HHR, use the lower bolt if you're at stock ride height. Upper if you're lowered. Torque the arm to the bracket before you install. I don't know how it's possible to do that with the bracket installed. Make sure you use the plus size Torx socket to loosen then the tank straps to lower the tank. The fit of the tank strap bolt holt to the bolt is extremely tight and will fight you the entire time. It's easy to strip the head with the wrong socket.
 
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Mojo88

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Will not work with the stock sized bolt. 11+ is a larger diameter bolt. The bracket is threaded, there is no nut.

HHR, use the lower bolt if you're at stock ride height. Upper if you're lowered. Torque the arm to the bracket before you install. I don't know how it's possible to do that with the bracket installed. Make sure you use the plus size Torx socket to loosen then the tank straps to lower the tank. The fit of the tank strap bolt holt to the bolt is extremely tight and will fight you the entire time. It's easy to strip the head with the wrong socket.


You seem to know the UCA setup stuff pretty good. My car (2010 Roush) is lowered (from Roush) and has the Roush UCA. Does this mean that my pinion angle is now wrong? Thanks.........
 

HillbillyHotRod

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Will not work with the stock sized bolt. 11+ is a larger diameter bolt. The bracket is threaded, there is no nut.

HHR, use the lower bolt if you're at stock ride height. Upper if you're lowered. Torque the arm to the bracket before you install. I don't know how it's possible to do that with the bracket installed. Make sure you use the plus size Torx socket to loosen then the tank straps to lower the tank. The fit of the tank strap bolt holt to the bolt is extremely tight and will fight you the entire time. It's easy to strip the head with the wrong socket.

Thanks for the info. I have the torx socket thingy so no problem there. On the hole where the arm bolts to the mount I am as stock height now but may be lowering in the near future. Should I just use the upper mounting hole now and adjust or wait and take the whole thing out again at that time to change mount position? I was questioning the torquing of the arm to mount because the BMR instructions say to do it after the mount is bolted in. From what I have read so far that is near impossible to do.
 

Robert M

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To use the 2011+ BMR UCA & Mount does the larger bolt need to be used or will my 2008 stock bolt work?

If you are asking about the UCM bolt under the rear seat, here is the 2007-2010 (right) and the 2011-up..............



Using the 2011-up in an earlier car will def. require the larger hardware. <<This would also apply to the installation of an oem UCA/UCM in an earlier car or the 2011-up Roush in the earlier car. If I remember correctly, my Roush UCA/UCM came with the new larger bolt. If the BMR is used, the correct captured washer bolt would have to be purchased from Ford.



R
 

Robert M

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Maybe Ford was looking towards the future with more HP in these cars and thought they needed a bigger bolt???

Well, they did move from 500hp to 550hp between the earliest cars and 2011 and by 2011 I'm sure that the 662hp was already in the planning stages, if not earlier testing.

There are plenty os 2007-2012 owners with hp levels past the oem 2013/14 662.......what did Ford find through their testing, that we all can now take advantage of? They found something or expensive production changes would have never been done for 2011.

And then it all goes back to............Why did Ford/SVT feel the need for a longer arm? Larger hardware? Larger bushing? <<They are the ones with the deep pockets for extensive testing.

I just wish the 2007-2012 had the 2013/14 fuel tank that is formed in such a way that it is cut-out in the UCM area for an easy R&R of the UCA/UCM, and not such a PITA as it is on the earlier cars, lowering tank, etc.



R
 

Robert M

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For those who had not seen my side-by-side compare pictures, here are the oem and BMR 2007-2010 (left) and 2011-up oem and BMR on right........



and then each one flipped over for the other side compare.......



.................................................................^^^^^ The oem UCM really got some structure added to it for 2011.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

and the oem 2007-2010, 2011-up Roush (center) and the oem 2011-up......



^^^^Note, overall lengths for the 2007-2010 and 2011-up are the same, it is UCA to UCM mounting point that changed, and Roush only changed the under seat bolt size while retaining the earlier overall structure and shorter arm design with the smaller thru-bolt. I guess it was less costly to just add the larger bolt mounting in the UCM than it was to do a redesign as Ford/SVT did?


R
 
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Robert M

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The thru-bolt size differences, BMR and oem.

Below, 2007-2010 BMR on top, 2011-up on bottom.........



Below, 2011-up Roush on left (same as 2007-2010 oem) and 2011-up oem on right........






R
 

Mojo88

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For those who had not seen my side-by-side compare pictures, here are the oem and BMR 2007-2010 (left) and 2011-up oem and BMR on right........



and then each one flipped over for the other side compare.......



.................................................................^^^^^ The oem UCM really got some structure added to it for 2011.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

and the oem 2007-2010, 2011-up Roush (center) and the oem 2011-up......



^^^^Note, overall lengths for the 2007-2010 and 2011-up are the same, it is UCA to UCM mounting point that changed, and Roush only changed the under seat bolt size while retaining the earlier overall structure and shorter arm design with the smaller thru-bolt. I guess it was less costly to just add the larger bolt mounting in the UCM than it was to do a redesign as Ford/SVT did?


R

Damn good postings sir! Very clear and informative with great pics.

Thanks very much!!
 

Catmonkey

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You seem to know the UCA setup stuff pretty good. My car (2010 Roush) is lowered (from Roush) and has the Roush UCA. Does this mean that my pinion angle is now wrong? Thanks.........
It's possible, but even the stock drive shaft has CV joints and one U-joint, so I don't see that much benefit to being able to set it.
 

Catmonkey

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Should I just use the upper mounting hole now and adjust or wait and take the whole thing out again at that time to change mount position? I was questioning the torquing of the arm to mount because the BMR instructions say to do it after the mount is bolted in. From what I have read so far that is near impossible to do.
I guess it depends on how far out you are doing the drop and how much you drive it in the meantime. The angle might not be optimum, but it's not like you track the car either, so I don't think using the higher hole would hurt anything. I've pondered getting even a socket on the bolt while mounted in the car, I can't see it. If you can't get it tight once it's in the car, you will have a problem.
 

Mojo88

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It's possible, but even the stock drive shaft has CV joints and one U-joint, so I don't see that much benefit to being able to set it.

My car has aftermarket one-piece alum driveshaft, so that's why I ask about pinion angle. When I look at the UCA from underneath, it sure appears that the UCA mount is in the compressed position (due to lowering), and thus would be throwing off the pinion angle......
 

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