Brake pedal delay issue, sinks way down on first hit

jrgoffin

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well that's probably why. russel only makes decent fuel hardware,
speedbleeder makes speedbleeders since 1997 and they work like a charm.
here's their website! Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder

and if you used them for apperently twenty years and they worked why bash them now :dancenana:

Yes, that's gotta' be it - I must have mis-spelled the web adress and got linked to some Chinese knock-off site. Problem solved thanks to SVTP...

When three of the six leak, there is plenty of reason to think the quality has gone down hill, even after 20 years.
 

hotcobra03

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ive had issues with the front pads breaking the ring that holds them...

your issue is the pad is loose and caliper is lifting will just driving...first hit on brake pedal goes to almost floor,2nd hit is hard...

its happened 4 times to me...
 

Silver TT

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NO BRAKE PARTS work with water especially fluid so none should get water involved..
don't 100% understand your question reguarding that.

Yes, no one recommended mixing with water, it was just stated that synthetics do not mix with water at all and therefore any water in the lines or calipers will remain as 100% water while a glycol base brake fluid would mix with the small amount of water and effectively reduce its impact on the overall system if there is any water anyway. At least I think that is what they are saying.

Let the car sit overnight. Press on brake pedal, open up the bleeders at the master cylinder until just fluid comes out. Repeat as nessasary. Usually whenyou have bleed all the wheels and there still seems to be air in the system this precedure get the air out of the master cylinder. You must let the car sit overnight. With the abs you can try and bleed at each wheel and you will never get the air out because it gets trapped between the mc and the abs module.

Thank you. This is exactly what I needed to know. Will try this when I flush out the brake flluid. Is there any different process if using the Motive Power Bleeder?
 

racebronco2

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Yes, no one recommended mixing with water, it was just stated that synthetics do not mix with water at all and therefore any water in the lines or calipers will remain as 100% water while a glycol base brake fluid would mix with the small amount of water and effectively reduce its impact on the overall system if there is any water anyway. At least I think that is what they are saying.



Thank you. This is exactly what I needed to know. Will try this when I flush out the brake flluid. Is there any different process if using the Motive Power Bleeder?

I have the motive also and used it the same way.
 
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keith89

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Let the car sit overnight. Press on brake pedal, open up the bleeders at the master cylinder until just fluid comes out. Repeat as nessasary. Usually whenyou have bleed all the wheels and there still seems to be air in the system this precedure get the air out of the master cylinder. You must let the car sit overnight. With the abs you can try and bleed at each wheel and you will never get the air out because it gets trapped between the mc and the abs module.

I'm planning to convert to a dual master manual brake setup but want to keep the abs. I would assume a small reverse bleed from the caliper to the masters would remove any air between the master cylinders and the abs before doing a pressure bleed at the master cylinder. Is this correct?
 

46stang

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First look for leak evidence follow ALL the lines and hoses.

If no leaks bleed the brakes, including the master cylinder.

Still does it? Then it's likely an internal bleed inside a bad master cylinder.

what he said.
Since you checked the first two items I would say it's a master cylinder bleeding internally.
 

DSGWhippedSnake

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Let the car sit overnight. Press on brake pedal, open up the bleeders at the master cylinder until just fluid comes out. Repeat as nessasary. Usually whenyou have bleed all the wheels and there still seems to be air in the system this precedure get the air out of the master cylinder. You must let the car sit overnight. With the abs you can try and bleed at each wheel and you will never get the air out because it gets trapped between the mc and the abs module.

Thanks, good to know!

ive had issues with the front pads breaking the ring that holds them...

your issue is the pad is loose and caliper is lifting will just driving...first hit on brake pedal goes to almost floor,2nd hit is hard...

its happened 4 times to me...

I'm willing to bet you're right. I'll take it apart when I'm done with dinner. It makes sense, especially because if I'm cruising decently fast, once I hit the brakes the first time the car pulls to the right quick.
 

Anabolic

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bet your right hose collapsed... or caliper's seized up.. check the bleeders on the right side to see if you're getting good fluid
 

DSGWhippedSnake

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bet your right hose collapsed... or caliper's seized up.. check the bleeders on the right side to see if you're getting good fluid

Wouldn't it technically mean the left side then? If the right side grabs first then wouldn't that mean the left side is where the hose collapsed?
 

hotcobra03

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Thanks, good to know!



I'm willing to bet you're right. I'll take it apart when I'm done with dinner. It makes sense, especially because if I'm cruising decently fast, once I hit the brakes the first time the car pulls to the right quick.


leftside would be my guess ...
 

DSGWhippedSnake

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leftside would be my guess ...

Left side it was. The lower black clip between the pad and caliper was not seated how it should be. Very interesting. All that because of the stupid clip lol :shrug: Oh well, she's perfect now. Good to know that's all it can be...thanks for all the help and input fellas, much appreciated. :beer:
 

GOTSVT?

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Is this a result from the badass burnouts you posted a video of?
 

hotcobra03

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Left side it was. The lower black clip between the pad and caliper was not seated how it should be. Very interesting. All that because of the stupid clip lol :shrug: Oh well, she's perfect now. Good to know that's all it can be...thanks for all the help and input fellas, much appreciated. :beer:
glad that was it,,,

your lucky,,the first time it happened to me was just after getting a new wheel...yes caliper came up and rubbed the rim
 

DSGWhippedSnake

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glad that was it,,,

your lucky,,the first time it happened to me was just after getting a new wheel...yes caliper came up and rubbed the rim

yikes glad I steered around that possibility. I would't be a happy camper at all especially since I have brand new wheels. Thanks for the help!
 

Silver TT

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Left side it was. The lower black clip between the pad and caliper was not seated how it should be. Very interesting. All that because of the stupid clip lol :shrug: Oh well, she's perfect now. Good to know that's all it can be...thanks for all the help and input fellas, much appreciated. :beer:

When you did this fix did you need to replace the clip with a new one or just re-seat it properly? Has it happened again?

I think I might be having the same issue currently. The pedal doesn't drop to the floor but I have no braking power on first punch sometimes and then the car jerks hard to the left so might be my right front in comparison to your left front.
 

hotcobra03

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When you did this fix did you need to replace the clip with a new one or just re-seat it properly? Has it happened again?

I think I might be having the same issue currently. The pedal doesn't drop to the floor but I have no braking power on first punch sometimes and then the car jerks hard to the left so might be my right front in comparison to your left front.


the ring/clip is part of the pad..you change pads to fix...pads clip into caliper..the ring is the clip

the guide pin with Eclip just holds the pads on,,,the pads hold the caliper on by the rings...

there are 4 rings,,2 on each pad...,,,

the oem pads,,PBR are made the best ive seen....im not home to post a pic...

IMG_9334.jpg

IMG_9335.jpg
 
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