Budget Project Questions- 5.0 or 4.6??

[clc44]

Hello,

I just sold my '13 Full Bolt On Coyote A6. That being said I picked up a low mileage '13 SHO performance package. Now that I have a great DD. I'm looking to start a slow project. If I were looking for a budget build, goal being turbo 500+ rwhp. Which platform is the best to start? I want an auto and an on3 kit is cheap for both platforms. Which motor needs more beefing up? I know the 4.6 is limited to 400-450 before becoming a bomb, not sure on the 5.0.

I've looked at the 331/347 stroker options. What are the best options for both?? I know that 94/95's can be found for 2-5k very easily and the 99-04's are coming down in price.

My thoughts are turbo for sure. Which engine would be budget friendly to beef up to see around 500rwhp with the help of a turbo. I think that would make a nice 10 sec street car with suspension and on a diet.

Thanks for any help!!

 

[clc44]

Any advice or direction is greatly appreciated!

 

[Mrpancho95]

If you want to put together a cheap engine Find a pick n pull that has a mark viii take the teksid short block then see if you can find a 99-01 continental and rob the c heads from there, then from there boss rods some semi cheap forged Pistons, and cast crank should hold 600hp


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[clc44]

I guess I could find a 96-98 cobra and find some strong rods and pistons. Would it be smarter to just strengthen the stock 302/289 internals and throw a turbo on it? Or stroke the 302 to 331/347? I've researched a lot, just wanted my own thread to ask questions. Thanks!!

Probably best to find a car with a built motor already and just install a turbo and go from there.

 

[Corbic]

5.0 are you talking a Coyote or a SBF?

 

[clc44]

94/95 GT version.

 

[Three21]

The stock blocks of the old 5.0s can have trouble with anything over 500 to the wheels. Personally I vote PI 4.6 (99-04 GT) plus a turbo.

Tear down the stock shortblock and put in a good set of rods and pistons, clean up the stock crank and balance everything. Freshen up the heads (depending on mileage) and put them back together. Stock PI intake, sct BA 2400 or lightning MAF, and pick up a used plenum and throttle body. 42lb injectors and new COPs and plugs. Twin in tank fuel pumps.

FB performance valve body to tighten up the slushbox of a transmission with all new fluid. Rebuild the posi track if its going out, but stick with the stock 3.27 gears so the turbo has something to pull against. You don't have to but look into putting in a stall converter 3500rpm or so to help you spool up on the line.

A quality 67mm turbo with .96 A/R and 500 will be a breeze and you'll have a safe, reliable combo.

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[Corbic]

^ agreed.

Best bet is the Mod motor.

The old 302/SBF/5.slow is a great engine but you'll spend a lot of money. You'll need an aftermarket block, rotating assembly and heads...

You could also go 351w and elevate the block issue.

Either way, Mod motor, rods, Pistons and turbo kit. Check out the On3 setup. It's cheap garbage but it's cheap and plenty of people have made them work.

 

[clc44]

^ agreed.

Best bet is the Mod motor.

The old 302/SBF/5.slow is a great engine but you'll spend a lot of money. You'll need an aftermarket block, rotating assembly and heads...

You could also go 351w and elevate the block issue.

Either way, Mod motor, rods, Pistons and turbo kit. Check out the On3 setup. It's cheap garbage but it's cheap and plenty of people have made them work.

The stock blocks of the old 5.0s can have trouble with anything over 500 to the wheels. Personally I vote PI 4.6 (99-04 GT) plus a turbo.

Tear down the stock shortblock and put in a good set of rods and pistons, clean up the stock crank and balance everything. Freshen up the heads (depending on mileage) and put them back together. Stock PI intake, sct BA 2400 or lightning MAF, and pick up a used plenum and throttle body. 42lb injectors and new COPs and plugs. Twin in tank fuel pumps.

FB performance valve body to tighten up the slushbox of a transmission with all new fluid. Rebuild the posi track if its going out, but stick with the stock 3.27 gears so the turbo has something to pull against. You don't have to but look into putting in a stall converter 3500rpm or so to help you spool up on the line.

A quality 67mm turbo with .96 A/R and 500 will be a breeze and you'll have a safe, reliable combo.

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Thanks so much! I had a buddy with a 99, pi swap and turbo cams make 430ish on low boost. That was before he built the motor. I love the body style as well. Very good information here! The on3 kit was my plan. It has shown to work well, even though it may need a few modifications.

 

[Corbic]

Thanks so much! I had a buddy with a 99, pi swap and turbo cams make 430ish on low boost. That was before he built the motor. I love the body style as well. Very good information here! The on3 kit was my plan. It has shown to work well, even though it may need a few modifications.

Before I bought my Cobra, I had contemplated building a GT or swapping a V6.

I was planning to contact On3 and see if I could buy just the piping and FMIC. I'd furnish all my own accessories. Use a Borg Warner turbo, Tial waste-gate, no BOV, jiffy-tite fittings, 1,200cc injectors, and a MS3 ECU I have.

 

[clc44]

I think a project would be fun. There will be no rush!

 

[5.0 Hatch]

I've been down both roads. The easiest/cheapest way to make that kind of power is to go with a 99-04 GT. Beef up the bottom end and put cams and a supercharger/turbo and you would meet your goal.

 

[clc44]

That seems like the best route after research. Plus the 4r70 and obd2 are good features.

 

[Corbic]

That seems like the best route after research. Plus the 4r70 and obd2 are good features.

If you buy a running driving car, you can always build an aluminum shortblock. Grab a Teksid or WAP from a MK8, Explorer or Aviator. You can then send it out for cleaning and machine work, install your rods, pistons etc.

Once that's done you can pull your engine and install your heads to complete it into a long block.

Since your not going for +1200hp the WAP will be fine. The Aluminum blocks will help shave 80lbs off the front.

If your going tubular k-member and arms, that's another 50lbs.

 

[clc44]

What will the stock 2v black hold? With forged internals? I'd be very happy with 5-600.

 

[Three21]

These are ballpark numbers. Prepped factory iron block 1000hp. Stock cast crank cleaned up and balanced with new forged rods and pistons 600hp. Same formula as my original post.

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[Three21]

*Same formula as my original post will get you your number.

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[clc44]

These are ballpark numbers. Prepped factory iron block 1000hp. Stock cast crank cleaned up and balanced with new forged rods and pistons 600hp. Same formula as my original post.

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Thanks again! Seems like a fool proof set up that will run easy mid 11's to possibly high 10's. Thanks!

 

[helldiver14]

I have a 94 with an HCI and if I did it all over again I would go with either a fox or a new edge. The 94-95's are a pain in the ass to tune and the amount of specific things you have to find and rig in the 94-95 engine bay for it to fit is ridiculous (Intake Elbow, Hood Clearance....). The pushrod 5.0 is getting old fast and takes a lot of money and effort to make fast (HCI, Stroker Kit and Boost). Your SHO with a Livernois tune, intake and exhaust would whip most stock bottom end HCI 5.0's. Like previously stated, I would try to find a 32 valve from a Lincoln and swap it in an sn95 or I would just look hard for a 96-98 Cobra. Oh, and of course boost the 32 valve, because they love boost and can handle tons of it. If your financially able to, I would look for a azure blue Mach 1 and procharge it

 

[jaxbusa]

So many good opinions on here. I battled this a couple years ago and went with a 2001 Bullitt. I have a friend that had a stock bottom end fox with heads, cam, intake and a turbo. The combo didn't last long until it split his block. As stated above, an aftermarket block is expensive, but other parts for the old 5.0 are cheap and many used parts are out there. I would recommend trying to find someone's project car where they spent some cash on it already.

Compare the cost of parts required to get you to your goal. Many of the parts are the same, but let's look at the differences:

The fox has forged pistons from the factory but requires an aftermarket block. Only needs one cam and the cost of aftermarket heads are reasonable. Isn't the wheel well smaller than a new edge?

The new edge will require forged pistons and stronger rods but block is good quality. The 2 Valve has only one expensive aftermarket head option and you have the cost of two cams. Any turbo option that I've found will require you to buy approximately $2,000 worth of k-member. It has a crap returnless fuel system.

If I were to do it all over again, I would go with a new edge Cobra to get the 4 Valve, independent rear and bigger brakes. When I was in the market for a project car the Cobras were just too much money.