Buying a new Focus...

[Snake Plissken]

I've been on YouTube checking out aftermarket exhaust. Most of them sound like fart cans, man I can not have that! My Cobra buddies would laugh till the earth came to a stand still. I guess it's just the nature of the (small) beast, it being a 4 cly.

Changing the exhaust won't be for a long time, I'll do a cold air intake and tube probably the first week. I just hope when the time comes I can find something that doesn't sound like a Honda with a fart can.

I can't be that guy on the block, I'm not 16 years old anymore.. :lol1:

Although, the Cobb with the resonator sounded the least like a fart can.


Oh yeah,
Told the salesman today not to install the front license plate holder. I'll be mounting down low with an aftermarket bracket.

 

[blackbeast12]

I like you listened to alot of exhausts and the best sounding to me was the mbrp pro 3" catback, so i bought it from beefcake racing. I'm very pleased with the sound very smooth mellow tone you can hear but its not overbaring!

 

[Snake Plissken]

I like you listened to alot of exhausts and the best sounding to me was the mbrp pro 3" catback, so i bought it from beefcake racing. I'm very pleased with the sound very smooth mellow tone you can hear but its not overbaring!

I probably listened to that brand, but I don't recall how sounded. I'll go back listen again. Thanks.

 

[einehund]

I just put an MBRP 3" XP series on the wife's FoST 2 days ago. OMG! Best sounding exhaust for these cars EVER! best part is there is a MFR rebate right now, and I used the 10% lethal performance had on halloween. $560 exhaust for $440! Can't beat that.

Also, I noticed you are concerned about the snow. I would suggest getting a set of dedicated snow tires. I run the GTradial Champiro WinterPro (225 45-r18) on the stock wheels. Yeah, the speedo is off by 1.7 mph at 60 mph, but they just straight grip in the snow. I drove a buddies FoST with Blizzaks and my cheap ass ones were just as good in 5 inches of snow.

 

[Snake Plissken]

I just put an MBRP 3" XP series on the wife's FoST 2 days ago. OMG! Best sounding exhaust for these cars EVER! best part is there is a MFR rebate right now, and I used the 10% lethal performance had on halloween. $560 exhaust for $440! Can't beat that.

Also, I noticed you are concerned about the snow. I would suggest getting a set of dedicated snow tires. I run the GTradial Champiro WinterPro (225 45-r18) on the stock wheels. Yeah, the speedo is off by 1.7 mph at 60 mph, but they just straight grip in the snow. I drove a buddies FoST with Blizzaks and my cheap ass ones were just as good in 5 inches of snow.

Thanks, that sounds like a hell of a deal. Yeah, I did fork out the $30 bucks for all-season tires. We'll see how those work out this winter. St. Louis isn't known for lot's of snow anyway. Twice in almost 60 years I've seen 12" maybe 13" at one time. Usually it's a few inches at a time and the plows take care of it overnight. I believe the average temp for winter in STL is 35*, but I do remember last winter (or the winter before.) shoveling the driveway one night and it was 6* above with wind chill at -10. Froze my lug nuts off! I was thinking.. WTF! this isn't Canada! lol!

 

[Snake Plissken]

I was talking with someone up on the Terminator forum and we were discussing the problem of valve stem build-up on these Ecoboost motors. Direct injection seems to be the main culprit. The stems don't get 'washed' with fuel to help them stay clean. Plus, if oil vapor gets into your air intake that may 'cling' to the stems causing build-up. So, the first mod on the list is now an oil separator.

If you don't have an oil separator, I would install one.

 

[zsommer79]

Which separator are you looking at and are you doing both sides?

 

[Snake Plissken]

Which separator are you looking at and are you doing both sides?

That's a good question, I'm not that familiar with these motors yet. I know there are company's out there that are making them specifically for the ST's. Most seem to be a sort of "generic" type that look and hook-up like all other model cars with power adders. Although, I did see an install on YouBoob that was a little different than most. Can't recall the name, I believe it was Japanese or at least it sounded like it.

As far as doing both sides, I'm not sure. I'd have to look into it more. Like I said I'm not that familiar with these motors yet. For example my Cobra from what I've read the 4.6 at over 600hp may blow out on the air intake side (cam cover.) but mine still sucks in I'm under 600hp so that's why I only run separators on the exit side.

I have two of Bob's Auto Sports oil separators on my Cobra and I may remove one of them for the ST. Let me explain why I have two, I was very curious and wondered how well they worked so I ran two in parallel (side by side.) they work great, never any oil in the second one! They are made for the GT-500's, but I bought brackets that are made to hold catch cans from Jeg's to mount them. Had to drill hoes into the car, but that doesn't bother me, not like some guys. Also, at the time Bob's didn't offer AN fittings and I redrilled the smaller holes out and tapped for AN fittings then ran black nylon braided hoses. Looks a hell of a lot better than rubber lines.

If I were to reuse one of my separators from the Cobra I'll have to do some custom work to allow for the AN fittings and braided lines. That'll involve some extra work and money for new lines.

So, at this point I really haven't made up my mind on brand or location. I'm sure I'll figure it out soon. Stay tuned!

 

[Sinister06gt]

Glad to hear the car is working out for you, but how are you only spending $1.50 more per fill up? Around here it's about 40 cents difference from 87 to 93. At a buck-50 that's about 4 gallons. Besides, it not per fill up, that won't be a whole lot. It's how much per year. Plus, I already have a 93 octane sucker that we wont even talk about gas mileage, lol!

That reminds me. have to contact the dealer and make sure they do not rivet that damn front plate holder on. Going with a no drill plate holder and I'll be mounting it down low.

I only let it get to half tank. Some people have reported lean conditions under full boost with car below 1/2 tank. Currently I'm paying $2.36 for 93 octane.

 

[98Cobra_sleeper]

i Have a 2014 FoST.
Steeda's Stage 2 power pack is awesome. i've had it on my car for almost a year. it really wakes the car up and doesn't push the limits like some other more aggressive tunes. the only drawback i see is that it uses a SCTx4, which is nice, but the Cobb accessport has many more datalog paramaters you can use that the sct doesnt' have available.
It seems that the best oil catch can/air oil separator that everyone loves is made by Damond. he makes them for both the air intake side and the manifold side(manifold side sees much more blowby). people install water/meth injection on the car to prevent the intake valves from getting gunked up. helps with the IAT's too. check out Stratified Automotive Controls. they have many good blogs and products for these cars.
one of the biggest weak links in our cars is the intercooler. it is just too small. before spending money on the exhaust (almost no gains), an intercooler really is a must.
the rear motor mount is also a very weak link. stiffer ones translate more vibration, but aggressive 1-2 shifts can make the motor bang off the firewall.

 

[Snake Plissken]

I only let it get to half tank. Some people have reported lean conditions under full boost with car below 1/2 tank. Currently I'm paying $2.36 for 93 octane.

OK, I got ya.

i Have a 2014 FoST.
Steeda's Stage 2 power pack is awesome. i've had it on my car for almost a year. it really wakes the car up and doesn't push the limits like some other more aggressive tunes. the only drawback i see is that it uses a SCTx4, which is nice, but the Cobb accessport has many more datalog paramaters you can use that the sct doesnt' have available.
It seems that the best oil catch can/air oil separator that everyone loves is made by Damond. he makes them for both the air intake side and the manifold side(manifold side sees much more blowby). people install water/meth injection on the car to prevent the intake valves from getting gunked up. helps with the IAT's too. check out Stratified Automotive Controls. they have many good blogs and products for these cars.
one of the biggest weak links in our cars is the intercooler. it is just too small. before spending money on the exhaust (almost no gains), an intercooler really is a must.
the rear motor mount is also a very weak link. stiffer ones translate more vibration, but aggressive 1-2 shifts can make the motor bang off the firewall.

Thanks for the info., I'll check into that oil separator.

Yeah, I won't be sinking to much money into the ST, I already have the Cobra that I want to build a new motor for. Looking for 700 RWHP with a TVS blower on E-85.

I figure I can make the ST breath better with a CAI, tube and a 3" exhaust. Maybe a aftermarket down pipe with a better flowing cat. Keep the charge air cooler with a better intercooler and that'll probably do me. Not looking for big HP gains. I won't be putting my foot into it much, got the Cobra for that.

 

[Snake Plissken]

Just checked out the Damond oil separator set ups. I'll have to admit it's very nice package they sell. I think I'll be ordering this very soon.

Thanks 98Cobra_sleeper




On a side note: I'm getting antsy! It's the middle of Nov. the car should be here in a few weeks.. Hurry up Ford! LOL!

 

[Snake Plissken]

I just ordered the Damond Motorsports oil catch can stage 3 with the VTA kit. Went with the red lines even though the car will be blue. I just wanted the lines to be easily seen. With the stage 3 kit you have to get the Sound Symposer delete kit. They offer black and gold colors, went with gold. Once again just so it's easily seen.

I know I could get by with just the stage 1 OCC set up, but what the hell, figured I go all out.

Total $425.00, defiantly not cheap by any means, but it should help out with the unwanted oil situation. When I get the car home it'll be the first thing done.

The drive home from the dealer is 26 miles, plus whatever is on the odometer when I pick up. I'll almost bet the salesman or his boss takes the car for a spin just to check-out the 2.0L turbo version Focus. If I remember right, he said they never had one on the lot. Lets hope it doesn't go like this...:burnout: LOL !

 

[Snake Plissken]

Received my Damond Motorsports oil catch can stage 3 kit and sound symposer delete today. After I placed my order I received a call from Matt at Damond. Apparently I was confused when it came to the mounting bracket choices, but Matt was cool and added all the brackets they sell. One was for a relocation they came out with not long ago. Now that's great customer service!

I like the one way check valves that are included. Plus the Ford designed fittings for the hoses, which means easy install. That can for stage 2 with the filter on top has a one-way check valve between the filter and can, meaning it will not suck unmetered air in just incase of back pressure build-up it'll come out of that filter. These are fairly big catch cans, pictures on their web site and other pics that are installed on motors makes it hard to figure out.

So, lets check it out...

 

[Snake Plissken]

I was wondering, I'm not sure but I guess these cars from the factory have the 50% conventional and 50% synthetic motor oil mix? Is it best to leave that in until motor break-in (if there is such a thing anymore.) or can I dump it when I get home from the dealer and add my own 100% synthetic oil in?

Thanks...

 

[zsommer79]

You can call an oil a synthetic blend if it only has a drop of actual sythetic in it. Not sure what percentage motorcraft is but I bet it is way less than 50%. On my ST I waited until 1000 miles then switched over to Amsoil signature series with their filter. Will dump again at 5000 and continue with 5000 mile change intervals.

 

[Gabe9195]

I thought this was gonna be just a daily driver, 89 octane and all.
Why bother with oil catch cans and full synthetic oil?
Just service it at the dealer and call it a day.
Car comes with a 5/60 powertrain warranty, if something goes wrong at least it's always been serviced by them they can warranty it

 

[Snake Plissken]

You can call an oil a synthetic blend if it only has a drop of actual sythetic in it. Not sure what percentage motorcraft is but I bet it is way less than 50%. On my ST I waited until 1000 miles then switched over to Amsoil signature series with their filter. Will dump again at 5000 and continue with 5000 mile change intervals.

Well, whatever Ford throws in. I know 10 years ago when I bought my current Focus it was a blend. I waited 3,000 and ran synthetic from then on. Yeah, I run Amsoil in my Cobra, good stuff! Thanks for your reply.

I thought this was gonna be just a daily driver, 89 octane and all.
Why bother with oil catch cans and full synthetic oil?
Just service it at the dealer and call it a day.
Car comes with a 5/60 powertrain warranty, if something goes wrong at least it's always been serviced by them they can warranty it

Why wouldn't you run the catch cans? Oil build-up will rob the motor of power, Ford isn't going to pull the intake off every 10,000 miles and clean the stems. In as little as 7,000 miles these Ecoboost motors with direct injection can get pretty nasty. Yeah, Ford has a warranty, but it only lasts for so long. Preventable maintenance can take you a long way. I don't trade-in every few years. I bought my last daily driver Focus 10 years ago.

Again, why wouldn't you run synthetic oil? Synthetic oil gives you better lubrication, better gas mileage, better performance and you can get synthetic that'll go for 15,000 mile change intervals. Plus, if your a 'green freak' it's man made not being sucked out of the earth (some people have problem with that, not me.)

Remember too, things like freer-flowing exhaust, CAI's and in this case a better intercooler that makes the charge-air cooler will not only give performance, but better gas mileage 'cause the motor doesn't work as hard. In my case I'll just have to remember to keep my foot out of the go pedal and it'll pay-off. Not that I'm looking for tremendous gas mileage, I wouldn't expect it.




BTW, VW is having the same issues with direct injection problems, but from what I've read even worse.

 

[zsommer79]

Plus, if your a 'green freak' it's man made not being sucked out of the earth (some people have problem with that, not me.)
.

Might want to fact check that statement before those Green Freaks tear into you.

 

[Snake Plissken]

Might want to fact check that statement before those Green Freaks tear into you.

OK, would it make you happier if I said, By using Group 3 synthetic oils you will be reducing the crude oil used in the U.S.



Synthetic oil is not distilled from crude oil. It is made through a chemical process know as the Fisher-Tropsch process, starting with raw methane, carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide. This process was first developed by Germany in WWII, when that country's access to crude oil was very limited. I assume they are referring to Groups 4 and 5 as defined by the API.


Oil (conventional & synthetic) as defined by the American Petroleum Institute:


Groups 1 and 2, These are mineral oils derived from crude oil.

Group 3, This is highly refined mineral oil made through a process called Hydrocracking. In North America this group is considered synthetic, for marketing purposes. This process contains 31% synthetic base.

Group 4, These are true synthetic oils, know as Polyalphaolefin (PAO)

Group 5, These are synthetic stocks other than PAO's and include Easters and other compounds.

I agree, most people in U.S. are using Group 3, but the point is not all synthetic oil is derived from crude oil. The reason may be that 1 qt. of aerospace quality synthetic like Pennzane is roughly $400 dollars.