Last night I got a little carried away. Had the house to myself and idle hands are the Shelby's playground. Plus I have having parts laying around the garage that I have not installed. I decided to tackle the Caliperfexion brake caliper studs from Patti, Transmission scoop from Shelby American, and to start the transmission cooler install. To tell you the truth I got a lot further than I expected. Anyway, onto the data....
First off removing the 6GR wheels was relatively easy. I have seen several threads about the lug nut holes being too small for most sockets. I found that my 3/4 in socket wrapped in electrical tape to prevent scratching worked just fine and fit the holes perfectly. My guess is people run into issues when using an impact socket?
The Caliperfexion studs are a great piece and well worth the investment Install was easy enough and very straight forward. At the time I got the kit it did not include the T60 torx bit needed to remove the OEM brake caliper bolts, but now Patti has gone a step up and started to include them in the setup. Purchasing from him will get you everything you need to get these studs on the car.
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Removal of the stock caliper bolts takes a little muscle given all the loc-tite from the factory. It is IMPERATIVE you clean out the threads of the knuckle before installing the new studs. These pictures do not do justice to the amount of loc-tite residue and metal shavings that are in there. I have only had my calipers off once for the R swap. There was a bunch of aluminum that came out from the knuckle. Every time you do a brake pad change and have to remove/install that bolt into the knuckle you will be damaging those threads. I used a wire brush to get it clean and then hit it with some compressed air as instructed. It was not until now that I really appreciated how useful the studs will be in efficiency and protecting the aluminum knuckle.
Once I let the loc-tite cure for about 25 minutes I placed some anti-seize on the collar of the stud as instructed, then reinstalled them. I had some APR assembly lube lying around so I applied that and torqued it down to 80ft/lbs. Definitely a good upgrade and @Tob was available for any random questions I had which was great.
I kept the ball rolling and got the transmission scoop in as well. This one was easy with only 4 attachment points. They all line up with the holes on the transmission so it is east to get on. Hardest part are the rear two bolts that will require a swivel and an extension to make it easy. I did notice a spot on the passenger side where the scoop was just barely contacting the transmission casing. I placed some material in-between the two to prevent a possible rubbing/rattling issue.
Last but not least I started on the transmission cooler swap. My goal was to get the transmission cooler plumbed and in, So when it came time to drop the transmission we would be ready to go. I was able to accomplish that goal without much fuss, and will go into detail about it when I do a writeup for the install. For now here is a little picture of what should be behind the passenger side bumper on the tech package.
A few items coming in from ZL1 Addons, and still finishing up some work on the trunk. Lots to do before Knotts in April
First off removing the 6GR wheels was relatively easy. I have seen several threads about the lug nut holes being too small for most sockets. I found that my 3/4 in socket wrapped in electrical tape to prevent scratching worked just fine and fit the holes perfectly. My guess is people run into issues when using an impact socket?
The Caliperfexion studs are a great piece and well worth the investment Install was easy enough and very straight forward. At the time I got the kit it did not include the T60 torx bit needed to remove the OEM brake caliper bolts, but now Patti has gone a step up and started to include them in the setup. Purchasing from him will get you everything you need to get these studs on the car.
]
Removal of the stock caliper bolts takes a little muscle given all the loc-tite from the factory. It is IMPERATIVE you clean out the threads of the knuckle before installing the new studs. These pictures do not do justice to the amount of loc-tite residue and metal shavings that are in there. I have only had my calipers off once for the R swap. There was a bunch of aluminum that came out from the knuckle. Every time you do a brake pad change and have to remove/install that bolt into the knuckle you will be damaging those threads. I used a wire brush to get it clean and then hit it with some compressed air as instructed. It was not until now that I really appreciated how useful the studs will be in efficiency and protecting the aluminum knuckle.
Once I let the loc-tite cure for about 25 minutes I placed some anti-seize on the collar of the stud as instructed, then reinstalled them. I had some APR assembly lube lying around so I applied that and torqued it down to 80ft/lbs. Definitely a good upgrade and @Tob was available for any random questions I had which was great.
I kept the ball rolling and got the transmission scoop in as well. This one was easy with only 4 attachment points. They all line up with the holes on the transmission so it is east to get on. Hardest part are the rear two bolts that will require a swivel and an extension to make it easy. I did notice a spot on the passenger side where the scoop was just barely contacting the transmission casing. I placed some material in-between the two to prevent a possible rubbing/rattling issue.
Last but not least I started on the transmission cooler swap. My goal was to get the transmission cooler plumbed and in, So when it came time to drop the transmission we would be ready to go. I was able to accomplish that goal without much fuss, and will go into detail about it when I do a writeup for the install. For now here is a little picture of what should be behind the passenger side bumper on the tech package.
A few items coming in from ZL1 Addons, and still finishing up some work on the trunk. Lots to do before Knotts in April
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