Converter or no?

SD_Stang

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So I have a 2014 Mustang GT A6 and have already done:
Catback
Take off Brembo Brake (4 piston) upgrade over standard
Wheels and tires

About to order the BMR Catalog for suspension with Strange Struts and Viking Shocks, Drag Springs and full front end K-Member A-Arms etc.

I had debated with myself over a Roush Phase 1 or NA and decided to keep it NA as it allowed me to add the front end with my budget, a nice tune and some other goodies that would get the car into the 11's. 3.31's, Off Road X, Driveshaft, Converter and Flex Fuel Tune w a full suspension.

My question is with a 3C on a R888 with a dialed in Suspension, weight off the front end is getting the car to hook up on the street a pipe dream or would it be easier to get a tune only Phase 1 with a stock converter and stock gears?

If I go the FI route it would be standard suspension Springs, Dampers, LCA's, UCA, relocation brackets, Panhard Bar, Driveshaft with caster camber plates as that's all the budget allows for. The front end can come eventually but it would be next year sometime. Thoughts?
 

WhiTriCobra

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I would try it N/A for a while till you go FI but that’s just me. I ran a 11.9 (DA was 3300) with a Boss IM, bolt on's, converter, tune and 275 NT05R's. But that is with BMR upper and lowers, BMR panhard bar and brace. The converter makes a huge difference. When the car just had JLT CAI, tune and axle back it ran a 12.4 (DA 1000) with a 2.0 60' on street tires but no spinning.
If you don’t have a tune yet, I would def look at a tune and drag radials. Right there should net you a low to mid 12, depending on the 60’s, track prep and DA. If you add a converter and nothing else, I bet you’ll be at a high 11.
The A6 fully loaded weighs a good bit but that first gear ratio will make them move out quick. Now I have a BMR K member and with a quarter tank of gas, without me in the car, it weighs 3680lbs.
If you know for sure you will eventually go with FI, I would call Circle D and just talk to them about your plans and go with what they recommend.
 

Recon

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Converter would be one of the first mods I'd do on an Auto car.


Sent from somewhere in the Twilight Zone.
 

SD_Stang

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I guess question is what kind of rubber will put down around 415 whp with a 3c? Already spoke to Circle D and they said if I was mainly a street car and at some point wanted to go FI that would be a good spot.

MT ETs 2's?

Would a Toyo R888 be cape-able of putting down that kind of power from a dig? any Auto's running those dd with a 2 or 3c?
 

Famine

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I guess question is what kind of rubber will put down around 415 whp with a 3c? Already spoke to Circle D and they said if I was mainly a street car and at some point wanted to go FI that would be a good spot.

MT ETs 2's?

Would a Toyo R888 be cape-able of putting down that kind of power from a dig? any Auto's running those dd with a 2 or 3c?

Is the 3c what they told you? Someone told me i should run a 2c with my blower setup.
 

SD_Stang

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They said the 3C would work fine for an NA street car and if you decided to go FI down the road it would work well for it.
 

WhiTriCobra

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If you have FI, usually 2C is the way. Like OP said, if you are N/A now and might go FI later, 3C is fine.

If track prep is there; MT's, Nitto or most DR's will do the trick. I don't know what I put down with everything but at my last track outing the 275 NT05R's stuck hard. But you have to spin DR's pretty good and your track has to give a damn on prepping.

I just swapped up to some 15X8 rims and a set of NT555R 275-60-15's and I'm betting I have zero issues. And that's with the BOSS back on, Long tubes and the BMR K member that i just recently installed.
 

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