Some mustangs of various years have a creaking/squeak when you turn the steering wheel. This is very prevalent on the 03-04 Cobras.
There is a TSB that identifies and fixes this problem: # TSB 05-14-3
This TSB supposedly covers 2002-2004 Mustangs, but there was a previous one that covered 2000-2001 models with a same procedure and applies to all the models through these years and might also be a fix on all 96-04's.
If your car is out of warranty, you can pick these sleeves up from FORD at a price of $4.25 each. (you need 2 of them). I did this job last night on my GF's 04 Cobra (still under warranty) mainly since we did not want to hassle with some of Ford's incompetent techs and the long amount of time they had quoted us it would take by leaving her car with them all day...risks etc.
It's ALOT easier and much quicker if you have a drive-on ramp.
$20-25 at most autozone/pep-boys/kragen etc...or make your own.
Parts/tools:
E5DZ-3K620-A (Sleeves that you will be replacing the original ones with)
PROTHANE Part # 6-703 or any rack and pinion bushings made of urethane (Hard rubber)
18mm Deep socket
15mm Deep socket
Pliers
Flat head screw driver
Penetrating oil/WD-40/Liquid wrench/Silicone spray etc..
Grinder (optional)
NOTE: If you're considering aluminum rack bushings, it will move your rack 1/4" to the back and this will affect your toe setting of alignment. Be aware that you will need to get the car realigned if you do upgrade to the aliminum bushings. There are additional modifications needed that can be found here: http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/rack.htm
OPTIONAL but highly recommended FIX: As an additional step to the fix mentioned below. Grind about 1mm off the front of the new metal sleeves. The creaking noise is caused by the sleeves rubbing against the large metal washer at the front. Creating a space to avoid contact will resolve the issue. Having stiffer bushings also helps fix the problem, but as the front nut is tightened, the front washer is bound to make contact with the sleeve and cause this noise again. I highly recommend grinding out about 1mm off the front of the sleeves to avoid future contact with the washer.
Now onto the fix:
Drive stang onto ramp. Set parking brake. Also have a jackstand placed underneath somewhere strategic for additional safety.
1. Spray the long bolt and nut that is screwed onto it with some penetrating oil.
2. Unscrew the long bolt and remove it as shown. Rear (head of bolt) is a 15mm, front one is 18mm. Here is the nut, bolt and washer removed.
3. Remove the steering rack bushing. (Flathead screw driver)
4. Use pliers to pry the damn thing out
5. Comparo..OLD sleeve versus NEW sleeve
**********************************************************
IMPORTANT:
If you're replacing the bushings with new ones, you HAVE TO unbolt the steering wheel shaft where it bolts up to the rack and pinion.
It is a small 12mm or 13mm bolt that you have to remove first in order for the rack and pinion to move forward far enough to remove the bushings from the rear of the rack.
I suggest using some lock-tite (thread locker) on the screw's threads when you put that linkage back and bolt it up.
**********************************************************
6. Slide the new sleeve in
7. All the way in
8. Install Steering rack bushing..I put new stock ones in and they still made some noise, I then had to re-do the job with PROTHANE (Urethane) bushings and it solved all issues. $15-20 for a set. Prothane part # 6-703 are recommended very highly
9. (A) Slide bolt back into the sleeve from the rear as shown
9. (B) *This step is optional, but HIGHLY recommended: Using a grinder or a file type of tool, Grind out 1mm from the front of the sleeve.
10. Install the big washer and nut to complete the process..
11. Bolted up and done...
Onto the next one..
(I took both sleeves out at the same time and used the jack stand placed under the steering rack to give it some extra support and to angle the rack properly in the extrication of the sleeves)
Should take about an hour or less depending on lighting and what tools you have available. Power tools will turn this job into a 25-35 min job from start to finish.
There is a TSB that identifies and fixes this problem: # TSB 05-14-3
This TSB supposedly covers 2002-2004 Mustangs, but there was a previous one that covered 2000-2001 models with a same procedure and applies to all the models through these years and might also be a fix on all 96-04's.
If your car is out of warranty, you can pick these sleeves up from FORD at a price of $4.25 each. (you need 2 of them). I did this job last night on my GF's 04 Cobra (still under warranty) mainly since we did not want to hassle with some of Ford's incompetent techs and the long amount of time they had quoted us it would take by leaving her car with them all day...risks etc.
It's ALOT easier and much quicker if you have a drive-on ramp.
$20-25 at most autozone/pep-boys/kragen etc...or make your own.
Parts/tools:
E5DZ-3K620-A (Sleeves that you will be replacing the original ones with)
PROTHANE Part # 6-703 or any rack and pinion bushings made of urethane (Hard rubber)
18mm Deep socket
15mm Deep socket
Pliers
Flat head screw driver
Penetrating oil/WD-40/Liquid wrench/Silicone spray etc..
Grinder (optional)
NOTE: If you're considering aluminum rack bushings, it will move your rack 1/4" to the back and this will affect your toe setting of alignment. Be aware that you will need to get the car realigned if you do upgrade to the aliminum bushings. There are additional modifications needed that can be found here: http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/rack.htm
OPTIONAL but highly recommended FIX: As an additional step to the fix mentioned below. Grind about 1mm off the front of the new metal sleeves. The creaking noise is caused by the sleeves rubbing against the large metal washer at the front. Creating a space to avoid contact will resolve the issue. Having stiffer bushings also helps fix the problem, but as the front nut is tightened, the front washer is bound to make contact with the sleeve and cause this noise again. I highly recommend grinding out about 1mm off the front of the sleeves to avoid future contact with the washer.
Now onto the fix:
Drive stang onto ramp. Set parking brake. Also have a jackstand placed underneath somewhere strategic for additional safety.
1. Spray the long bolt and nut that is screwed onto it with some penetrating oil.
2. Unscrew the long bolt and remove it as shown. Rear (head of bolt) is a 15mm, front one is 18mm. Here is the nut, bolt and washer removed.
3. Remove the steering rack bushing. (Flathead screw driver)
4. Use pliers to pry the damn thing out
5. Comparo..OLD sleeve versus NEW sleeve
**********************************************************
IMPORTANT:
If you're replacing the bushings with new ones, you HAVE TO unbolt the steering wheel shaft where it bolts up to the rack and pinion.
It is a small 12mm or 13mm bolt that you have to remove first in order for the rack and pinion to move forward far enough to remove the bushings from the rear of the rack.
I suggest using some lock-tite (thread locker) on the screw's threads when you put that linkage back and bolt it up.
**********************************************************
6. Slide the new sleeve in
7. All the way in
8. Install Steering rack bushing..I put new stock ones in and they still made some noise, I then had to re-do the job with PROTHANE (Urethane) bushings and it solved all issues. $15-20 for a set. Prothane part # 6-703 are recommended very highly
9. (A) Slide bolt back into the sleeve from the rear as shown
9. (B) *This step is optional, but HIGHLY recommended: Using a grinder or a file type of tool, Grind out 1mm from the front of the sleeve.
10. Install the big washer and nut to complete the process..
11. Bolted up and done...
Onto the next one..
(I took both sleeves out at the same time and used the jack stand placed under the steering rack to give it some extra support and to angle the rack properly in the extrication of the sleeves)
Should take about an hour or less depending on lighting and what tools you have available. Power tools will turn this job into a 25-35 min job from start to finish.
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