Dealing with the Magnum t56 fitment issues.

[cj428mach]

My t56 gave up the fight last week and so I'm looking to upgrade to the Magnum. Unfortunately the Magnum isn't a direct bolt in so there are a few issues I must deal with.

For a little back ground on me and my car, even though my car is modified I don't like to hack the car up in the quest for mods. There isn't one mod that can't be undone on it, and to date even with all the mods the car has I have yet to cut a wire, clearance, or drill anything on the car itself and I'd really like to keep it that way. If I do modify a stock part I always keep a spare original on hand. I even went as far as to put the original t56 in a box at 8900 miles and install this other one just incase I blew it up.

Anyways on to the known issues that I'll have to deal with on the Magnum install.


1. The clutch fork grinding issue, this one isn't a big deal really its just a clutch fork but I remembered that the DYAD isn't really any wider than a stock setup so I might not need to do any grinding. If I do have to grind I'll just get a spare clutch fork.
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-...-2003-cobra-dual-personality/photo-gallery/#5

2. The shifter bolt clearance issue- Rather than beat on my cars floor with a hammer I was thinking I could change out the bolts that hit the floor. My plan was to remove the bolts one at a time and drill the shifter base a little to provide a counter sink and then install some counter sunk allen bolts. Do you know what bolts are the problems ones? front ones? I assume as the rear should fall into the shifter bump. Anyone see a problem with this working?

3. The transmission crossmember- I could slot the holes on mine.....not excited about that. I could buy a new crossmember and slot that one....possibility, lastly and cheapest option, could I just slot the holes in the transmission mount where it bolts to the transmission instead of the crossmember side. Is there any reason this won't work?

4.The driveshaft issue- Theres really no way around this, I'll have to buy a new shaft to have shortened. Locally we have a driveshaft shop, I'll have to check with the to see if they can shorten and weld aluminum shafts.

5. The wiring harness can be a little tight, I'm hoping I can find a way to route this so I don't have to modify the harness in anyway.

6. What yoke should I go with?

 

[Black02GT]

Just a thought since I saw you post in the buy/sell section, I wouldn't be limiting yourself to the Cobra driveshaft if your going to shorten it. I used a FRPP aluminum shaft with good results, which ever you can get easier. I had a local shop shorten it and balance for <$100.

The swap isn't bad, it was my first R&R of a transmission and was able to do it on stands without much hassle. Wiring was not an issue except having to add a connector for the reverse lockout since I had a GT transmission harness, lengths were fine though.

Yes, it's the front two bolts (passenger side more so) that are the issue, I used the hammer method since it's in a V6 anyway. Not 100% sure how thick the plate on the bottom of the shifter is to machine but someone in my magnum thread (http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/t56-or-t56-magnum-opinions.1084959/) said they were able to just use lower profile bolts.

As for the cross-member, depending on your budge, I was highly impressed with the quality of the Stiffler's piece. Granted it was an easy choice for me since I didn't have a T56 cross-member to begin with.

Can't help you with the slip yoke though, re-used mine from the TKO 600 not 100% the brand anymore since it's been ten years.

Good luck on the swap, not a bad project at all especially for someone with your knowledge. Sorry I don't have more specifics, mostly replied cause I'm bored out of my mind at work right now.

 

[SVT_Troy]

I known member here by the name of Russ recommended this yoke in one of his build threads.

http://www.sonnax.com/parts/3347-slip-yoke

 

[cj428mach]

Just a thought since I saw you post in the buy/sell section, I wouldn't be limiting yourself to the Cobra driveshaft if your going to shorten it. I used a FRPP aluminum shaft with good results, which ever you can get easier. I had a local shop shorten it and balance for <$100.

The swap isn't bad, it was my first R&R of a transmission and was able to do it on stands without much hassle. Wiring was not an issue except having to add a connector for the reverse lockout since I had a GT transmission harness, lengths were fine though.

Yes, it's the front two bolts (passenger side more so) that are the issue, I used the hammer method since it's in a V6 anyway. Not 100% sure how thick the plate on the bottom of the shifter is to machine but someone in my magnum thread (http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/t56-or-t56-magnum-opinions.1084959/) said they were able to just use lower profile bolts.

As for the cross-member, depending on your budge, I was highly impressed with the quality of the Stiffler's piece. Granted it was an easy choice for me since I didn't have a T56 cross-member to begin with.

Can't help you with the slip yoke though, re-used mine from the TKO 600 not 100% the brand anymore since it's been ten years.

Good luck on the swap, not a bad project at all especially for someone with your knowledge. Sorry I don't have more specifics, mostly replied cause I'm bored out of my mind at work right now.

LOL if i had a lot of knowledge I wouldn't be here asking for help. I appreciate the info and I think I'm going to try really hard not to hammer on my car.

I also think if necessary I'll just buy another terminator crossmember and mod it if modding the transmission mount wont work.

I nabbed a stock driveshaft to shorten, I just know the terminator shafts are strong as you never hear of them breaking.
Thanks for the link, Ill check it out.

I known member here by the name of Russ recommended this yoke in one of his build threads.

http://www.sonnax.com/parts/3347-slip-yoke

I found Russ and Malcolm are using the sonnax yoke and I have one on order. Thank you.

 

[cj428mach]

I thought Id update this with what I found during my install.

1. The Dyad is only as thick as a single disk clutch is so the Magnum pivot ball took no modification.

2. I installed countersunk bolts in the front 2 bolt holes on the shifter base but the passenger side still contacted the floor. Ultimately I had to slightly massage the floorboard on the pass side with a prybar.

3. At first I installed a Stifflers crossmember but the amount of transmission noise was very high. I blamed the Stifflers crossmember so I found a used stock crossmember and slotted the holes. While installing the oem crossmember I saw evidence that the pass side shifter bolt head was rubbing the floor so I clearanced the floor a little bit and installed the oem crossmember and everything is dead quiet, so I'm not sure what was the culprit. I can say to the cobra purists that there is very minimal grinding of the stock crossmember so don't fear it as much as I did.

4. I shortened a spare stock driveshaft and you need to take approx 3/4" out of it depending upon the yoke.

5. The stock wiring harness fit with plenty of room. The harness holders that clip into the stock t56 and crossmember won't line up anymore but zipties can do the job just fine.

6. I went with the Sonnax yoke and it fit perfect.

Overall the t56 Magnum is everything people make it out to be. Its amazing how nice it shifts.

 

[P49Y-CY]

Great info, thanks for sharing. That is a lot less massaging that I had always been lead to believe.

 

[geoffmt]

Great info, thanks for sharing. That is a lot less massaging that I had always been lead to believe.

It really isn't a lot, front 2 bolts from shifter needed a little room in the tunnel if I remember from putting mine in. biggest problem for me was clutch fit and pivot ball length. my fix was an RXT clutch(11" single disc didn't sit right), mag pivot ball and adjustable clutch cable