Fall 2017 GT500 supercharged voodoo, 10 speed auto and....

Fourcam380

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I'm not arguing against CCB, but if you were having to change your rotors every weekend, then you should probably evaluate your driving style. Braking on track is not like braking on the street where most people ride the brakes down to a stop. On track, you wait until the last possible moment, stand on the brakes for about 2 or 3 seconds, tops (and that's coming from a long straight), make your turn and back on the gas.

Also, are you sure your rotors weren't just covered in pad residue and not warped? I have learned that a lot of guys that track their cars think they have warped rotors when, in fact, it's just pad residue. I've done a lot of research on the brakes subject. I've also learned that steel/iron rotors aren't anywhere near as easily warped as people think.

Again, I'm not arguing with you or trying to give you a hard time. I'm a fan of CCBs, if for no reason other than the weight savings.

I hear you bud. I race most of the time at mid Ohio. That course eats brakes.

I wasn't warping them. The oem rotors were grooved beyond resurfacing and the pads were shot--this is the last time out but also every other time I've gone.

I'm not going to say I'm the worlds best driver but as Bert (lead instructor) there would vouch I'm always stuck to his ass or vice versa regardless of the cars we drive.

Back to sort of being on topic, there is small double digit HP to garner from the weight savings that ccms provide. For straight line guys looking for every last HP, it's still a bonus.
 

Fourcam380

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A good steel rotor will last nearly as long as a CCM rotor on track.



This. My buddy is serious about picking up a 2015 Z28 as they are so inexpensive but the first order of business before you take it on track is to sell the CCM setup to someone who thinks they are worth it. Or someone who accidentally knicked one while pulling a wheel.

Also, CCM brakes only deal with heat better until like 900 degrees. If you overheat the rotors, I hope you have $3k laying around.



Guys are getting 8-15 days out of a 2 piece RB rotor. Even with stock rotors on my car I can get 6 days out of them. They are usually warped at that point and I replace them because it's annoying and they are only $40.

It beats the hell out of buying a $2,500-$6,000 set of rotors every 15 track days.

The benefit to carbon ceramic rotors is street duty life and weight, which comes at an enormous price.

Sorry I'm not line by lining it. Hate posting from phone.

I posted about oem ccms vs oem steel rotors. Not about aftermarket offerings. Oem vs oem I'll take CCM every time. And again having an oem fitment (or using another oems ccms is what makes them affordable, hence my logic about wanting them vs CF wheels) it's Also nice not having to replace pads every event.

I'd race the z28 with ccms, to each their own. You can't argue less reciprocating mass and "expensive/costly" is a relative term.

Personally I haven't seen a CCM car overheat the rotors, so that issue hasn't come up.
 

AustinSN

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Sorry I'm not line by lining it. Hate posting from phone.

I posted about oem ccms vs oem steel rotors. Not about aftermarket offerings. Oem vs oem I'll take CCM every time. And again having an oem fitment (or using another oems ccms is what makes them affordable, hence my logic about wanting them vs CF wheels) it's Also nice not having to replace pads every event.

I'd race the z28 with ccms, to each their own. You can't argue less reciprocating mass and "expensive/costly" is a relative term.

Personally I haven't seen a CCM car overheat the rotors, so that issue hasn't come up.

We can look at OEMs, hell even the same car. It's more or less unanimous that if you have any intention on tracking a Porsche, don't waste your money checking the PCCB box. You'll get about 10 days out of either set, but one is a $13k bill and the other is a $700 bill.

The weight savings is real and very beneficial, but I would say money is better spent in a very good set of wheels (I know, I know, non-oem). You'll need to replace them less often than the rotors and they will likely cost less as well.
 

Fourcam380

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We can look at OEMs, hell even the same car. It's more or less unanimous that if you have any intention on tracking a Porsche, don't waste your money checking the PCCB box. You'll get about 10 days out of either set, but one is a $13k bill and the other is a $700 bill.

The weight savings is real and very beneficial, but I would say money is better spent in a very good set of wheels (I know, I know, non-oem). You'll need to replace them less often than the rotors and they will likely cost less as well.

Porsche has very good oem irons but point taken.

For sure on wheels. Cost diff vs oem ccms is why I'd rather buy the wheels aftermarket--I like to run both like a lot of people I suppose.

Would be nice to see both ccms and cf wheels offered by Ford.
 

GT Premi

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Would be nice to see both ccms and cf wheels offered by Ford.

They almost did with the GT350R, but they found the benefits didn't outweigh the cost, and they were able to get the same results with the two-piece rotors.
 

Fourcam380

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They almost did with the GT350R, but they found the benefits didn't outweigh the cost, and they were able to get the same results with the two-piece rotors.

There isn't a Al and steel rotor out there that's even close to a CCM in terms of mass. That makes no sense on Fords behalf unless you mean comparable braking distances?
 

GT Premi

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There isn't a Al and steel rotor out there that's even close to a CCM in terms of mass. That makes no sense on Fords behalf unless you mean comparable braking distances?

I was talking about braking performance, not weight.
 

RJM

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Update, so word around the shop now is the car I posted about was not a Gt500 mule but a ford performance mule testing a GT350 blower option for the catalog. There is so much misinformation around the shop that I'm starting to think they tell this group of bosses this and that group that and a 3rd group something else just to mess with everyone.

also there is a 5.2 long block in tear down that is NOT a flat plane crank, everything else seems to be voodoo but the crank.
 
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hockeylover86

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Until DBK comes in here and drops hints, i won't consider any rumors accurate as to what Ford is doing.

Everything is a compromise, the 662hp in the last Shelby, and even the 707 in the Hellcat were numbers that were settled on to meet ALL targets, durability, financial, etc... These companies are still businesses and they still need to make profit with as little financial risk as possible.

Ford's halo car is now launched and in production, time for them to focus on the next GT500.

If I get a vote, 6.2 twin turbo with the 10 speed auto, 850hp standard tune - 1000hp race (E85) tune. I know thats not realistic, but I can dream....
 

GT Premi

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The SVT (now FPV) edict has always been NO AUTOMATICS. I think and hope the closest thing to an automatic that gets put into a halo Mustang is a GT4-sourced DCT.
 

AustinSN

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It will be the 10 speed. I'd be surprised if the dual clutch in the GT4 stood up to 700hp+ and an extra 600lbs or whatever it will weigh.
 

GT Premi

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I meant to say GT4-based, not -sourced. I have no doubts that Ford could beef it up for high HP duty. I think the torque converter automatic should be reserved for the Mustang GT and other specialty Mustangs, not the halo Mustangs.
 

Clemson

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I meant to say GT4-based, not -sourced. I have no doubts that Ford could beef it up for high HP duty. I think the torque converter automatic should be reserved for the Mustang GT and other specialty Mustangs, not the halo Mustangs.
Preach.
 

tt335ci03cobra

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For sure, I know the gear ratios of the 10a, and how it doesn't use all ten ratios in sequence, it picks them depending on load and rpm, etc.

I was just makin a joke. In all honesty, I like the concept a lot. I'm a Neanderthal and prefer a 3rd pedal, but autos are getting to be exceptional now.

My t56 has a .50 6th, I believe the 10a has a .63 10th so basically my transmission is more of a mpg setup than the close ratio 10.

I do hope the damn thing launches in 2nd, because the 4.9 1st in the 10a is laughable. 2nd is a 2.9, and much more appropriate for launching to a fast 0-60 time. Now if they have a torque limiting launch control, and on and on, then the 4.9 with something like 275wtq would do great, but much more than that would blow the tires off decidedly.
 

tt335ci03cobra

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I will say that the 4.9 1st is great for helping gas mileage on stop/go, and slight throttle driving. The mechanical levarage would require half the power from the engine to get it rolling. I get why it's there, but for performance numbers, I think a strong to possibly full power pull from 2nd at 2500rpm if sc or 3500rpm if turbo would rally hard. My two step hit hard from a dig with 2.66 1st, 3.08 rear, 28" tires and 3800rpm on the street. Very quick launch for rwd and drag radials.
 

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