False knock between shifts?

[Kman11]

Were you able to fix it? I have the same problems. I have a 2012 mustang 5.0 p1sc1 procharger stage 2. Get the same reading as described. Big headache. Been going with it with Lund also and can’t seem to find the problem. I posted on Facebook a while ago about it. Someone said it can be my throwout bearing? What’s the chances on that? Any updates?

Hey sorry for the delay. I changed the engine tensioner and procharger tensioner to be safe, also replaced the bad wheel bearings.

Still no luck!

I'm starting to think drive shaft or clutch related. Eventually I'll replace every damn part on this car and find the culprit!

Anyone else out there having any luck?

It's crazy, if I'm in 4th gear at 3-4k rpm and just barely tap the throttle I get a 10KR.

 

[basspro302]

Still no luck? Im sorry to hear that i would put the stock intake and injectors back on and load a stockish tune to try and rule that out.

 

[slow306stang]

Im starting to think its the Procharger kit itself. I have the same issues as Kman11

 

[Steven Montes]

I’m not sure exactly what it is but I also have this issue. And I also have a procharger mine is the p1sc1 stage 2. Kman11 if you do switch out your clutch and drive shaft, please keep us updated. Seems like we are a handful with this issue.

 

[Kman11]

I remember when i first bought my car and it was stock (had 35k miles at the time). I downshifted and mashed the pedal and there was NO power. I thought, wow that's odd! I then assumed maybe these newer cars do that purposely, as my last car experience was an 03 cobra. This downshifting with no power would happen quite a bit when the car was stock, h pipe only, then later with the procharger.

Now of course the problem has gotten so bad that even light throttle taps send the knock sensors crazy, and now i have a device where i can see it in real time so i'm super aware of it.

So what i'm getting at is a think the problem may have always been there all along?

 

[Kman11]

If someone can help answer these questions about knock sensors it would be very helpful -

Exhaust -
- Loose exhaust is talked about all the time as being a culprit. If i rev my motor in neutral and hold the rev, and bang on my exhaust with a hammer why don't i get a knock count? ( When i rev my motor quickly, i do get a KR reading for reference so they are active with no load). Since the hammer won't do it, does that mean the frequency isn't "perfect", but a loose clamp can somehow be the "perfect" frequency?

Do knock sensors work when the engine is cold just the same as when it's warmed up?

What would happen if i unplug them? Does the computer go into limp mode?

The knock sensor is designed to pick up the sound of detonation. Yet the tuners will tell us (who have false knock) it could be anything rubbing or tapping. It's amazing to me that a sensor so crucial to the operation of an engine can be fooled by ANYTHING tapping or rubbing in the entire car. If we take that statement and assume it's true (anything tapping or rubbing) then how the hell are all the inner working of the transmission, rearend, driveshaft etc able to do their thing without the knock sensors going crazy all the time (lots of rubbing / tapping going on in there!)

 

[Kman11]

My last post for the day, and a happy fourth to everyone, be safe!

This issue has been the WORST issue i've ever had as a car enthusiast. It's like trying to catch a ghost.

I've been looking at 03/04 cobras and have been considering picking one up. If i do, i'll give up on this beast, although i do VERY much hope to solve it. It's been going on for a YEAR now (maybe more and i didn't realize it!).

 

[Kman11]

Hey all i wanted to circle back on this.

So i went through the exhaust again, found some leaks and fixed most of them. Someone had the great idea to put a shop vac in reverse and stick in tail pipe. Tape off other tail pipe, then use soapy water to identify leaks. Works really well.

Things seemed to improve somewhat with the exhaust gone through again.

KR still there on the HARD hit ( medium RPM and punching it). I noticed that when i punch it at 4-5k rpm, there is a good delay on the boost gauge showing boost. I do have a lot of belt dust around the pulley, bracket etc. Guessing it slipping and maybe contributing to my issue?

Guys with prochargers - Where are you setting the tensioner to? I have the belt size procharger recommends (gates green) for my pulley, set to 1.5 notches as per prochargers recommendation.

 

[Steven Montes]

I’ll have to run my exhaust and check for some leaks. I have the procharger p1sc1 stage 2. And have it set with the belt that came with the kit and tightened to instruction manual.

 

[Steven Montes]

Do you also get some knock retard when you shift at wot?

 

[Kman11]

Do you also get some knock retard when you shift at wot?

Yes i do, sometimes a lot (10) sometimes a little.

I should have an update later this week, i think i may have solved it. Don't want to say it until i do some further testing. Stay tuned!

 

[Steven Montes]

So do I! I have the same issue as you do! Lund ran out of ideas they’re not sure what it is. They don’t want to deal with the knock sensor. Please let me know as you test or fix! Trying to figure out if mine is the same issue since it has the same identical problems thank you!

 

[Steven Montes]

Sorry for being annoying man but any updates? Did you solve the issue?

 

[Steven Montes]

So I ditched my tuner where I was getting crazy knock. Went with a new tuner. Did not tell him about my issue. Knock is only present now on shifts to this point. And knock at the max reaches 3.50 compared to the old crazy 10.+ with my old tuner. Thought I’d share my point on the tunes. I am coming to think that my shifter might be an issue since it is hard to shift at high rpm! Really stiff and when I do that’s when the knock kicks in. So I’ll be swapping short shifter and see if it helps

 

[Kman11]

So I ditched my tuner where I was getting crazy knock. Went with a new tuner. Did not tell him about my issue. Knock is only present now on shifts to this point. And knock at the max reaches 3.50 compared to the old crazy 10.+ with my old tuner. Thought I’d share my point on the tunes. I am coming to think that my shifter might be an issue since it is hard to shift at high rpm! Really stiff and when I do that’s when the knock kicks in. So I’ll be swapping short shifter and see if it helps

Hey Steven, that's very interesting. Keep this updated as you find more out. Which tuner did you use the 2nd time around?

I gave up on mine. I found a sweet low mile 2016 GT (California special) on carMax. It's being shipped here as we speak.

I still have my 11, just waiting for the new car to get here before i start pulling parts off / put back to stock to sell. If the issue goes away once it's back to stock i'll update this, or if i learn anything new as we go.

Lund has tuned my car since the beginning. The issue wasn't present initially with the procharger, but came 4-5 months after. Was yours having the issue from the start?

 

[Steven Montes]

Hey Steven, that's very interesting. Keep this updated as you find more out. Which tuner did you use the 2nd time around?

I gave up on mine. I found a sweet low mile 2016 GT (California special) on carMax. It's being shipped here as we speak.

I still have my 11, just waiting for the new car to get here before i start pulling parts off / put back to stock to sell. If the issue goes away once it's back to stock i'll update this, or if i learn anything new as we go.

Lund has tuned my car since the beginning. The issue wasn't present initially with the procharger, but came 4-5 months after. Was yours having the issue from the start?

My car is currrently being tuned by Alothman. He’ll be turning up the power more on my car when I get some cold weather here in California is hitting 115degrees Fahrenheit. But definitely keep you updated. And my issue did start from the begging of starting with Lund Racing. From beginning to end, with crazy knock. Don’t get me wrong I’m sure they’re great tuners one of the best out there. But for some reason the knock sensor is not having the crazy reading it did with Lund.

 

[Steven Montes]

Just wanted to give a quick update on this thread. My tuner dialed my car in! Car still does read knock. But very minimal compared to before And only on cruising minimal knock reading. WOT AND SHIFTING NO KNOCK RETARD WHATSOEVER. Car is a whole new animal now! No more issue with that I’m free of it!

 

[Kman11]

Just wanted to give a quick update on this thread. My tuner dialed my car in! Car still does read knock. But very minimal compared to before And only on cruising minimal knock reading. WOT AND SHIFTING NO KNOCK RETARD WHATSOEVER. Car is a whole new animal now! No more issue with that I’m free of it!

Wow no kidding! Congrats on solving it.

So after all it was simply a tuning issue?

 

[Steven Montes]

Appearantly so. Car feels different. Feels good. Idles a whole lot better also that’s for sure. Don’t get me wrong I still get knock but very minimal 2-3Kr as cruise only quick blimps other than that at WOT, NOTHING.