Finally going to start installing "new" DC heads. Need advice

IllCobra

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As some of you may know, my car dropped a valve seat and I was lucky enough to find a set of DC heads on craigslist. I took them to Tim at MRP in Boynton for a valve job, surface, and to get the parts checked out. I received a call earlier this week from MPR to let me know my heads were done. I'll be picking them up next week, but I'm going to be working on getting the stock heads off this weekend.

I'm not 100% sure which product # is the correct one for the 2003/2004 cobra...I've found 3 different SKUs for our cars. Is 156-4301 the correct one?

I was thinking of buying some ARP head studs from here if they are the correct ones:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-Auto-Ra...ash=item541c31d770:g:bZYAAOSwPhdVEGED&vxp=mtr

I will also order this gasket kit.

Fel-Pro Head Gasket Sets:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...e1-_-fel-pro&gclid=CPil9s62u9ICFYmffgoda_cLKw

Besides fluids, what else am i missing? I will be installing the head cooling mod as well. Those of you that have changed your heads, did you remove the motor? I'm sure removing it makes things easier but can it be done in car if i am adding head studs? I will post up some pics of the heads when after i pick them up.

Any help is appreciated.
 

badcobra

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Get the ARP 2000 head studs. I use 256-4201. For gaskets, I prefer the black fel-pro's 26187PT and 26222PT.

While it's apart, might as well grind the teeth on the ratcheting tensioners. Do some research on that, plenty of info out there.
 

IllCobra

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Get the ARP 2000 head studs. I use 256-4201. For gaskets, I prefer the black fel-pro's 26187PT and 26222PT.

While it's apart, might as well grind the teeth on the ratcheting tensioners. Do some research on that, plenty of info out there.

Would those head studs be an overkill though? I figured since I'm just bolt-ons i wouldn't need anything too crazy, especially since those are over $100 more expensive. I'll call summit and see if i can substitute those gaskets for the one's that came with the kit.
Thanks for informing me about the tensioner mod. I found a thread on modularfords from jrgoffin that shows pics on how to do it.
 

IllCobra

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Pull engine..I did both ways..over the fender is rough..

Did you remove from top or bottom? I have LT headers and heard that makes removing from the top harder, but if i jack up the rear of the car it is supposed to help.
 

IllCobra

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Picked up the heads this afternoon and man do they look nice!

Before:
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After:
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Eatonualive281

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Nice man! Id pull the engine and trans as one out the top personally. Id do the arp2000 studs, the fel pro gaskets, cobra engineering RH secondary tensioner, grind down the teeth on the primary tensioners, and of course....degree your cams while your at it. LOL.
 

IllCobra

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Nice man! Id pull the engine and trans as one out the top personally. Id do the arp2000 studs, the fel pro gaskets, cobra engineering RH secondary tensioner, grind down the teeth on the primary tensioners, and of course....degree your cams while your at it. LOL.

Thanks! They look almost brand new.
I will be pulling from the top. Do i need the arp2000 stubs if i'm only bolt-ons? Can i use ARP 156-4301 head studs? I ask because i've spent way more than i was planning when i bought the car 4 months ago, and th 156-4301s are $100 less. I hope to degree the cams after i do some more reading, still a little confusing to me haha
 

Eatonualive281

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Yeah degreeing is quite the task on paper. But once you dive in it all makes sense.
As far as the head studs go, I'd still do the arp 2000s even if you are a bolt on car. Considering they are "only" 100 dollars more and you already have the engine apart is hard to argue with. You will have peace of mind for the future if you wanted to mod for more power.
 

IllCobra

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Yeah degreeing is quite the task on paper. But once you dive in it all makes sense.
As far as the head studs go, I'd still do the arp 2000s even if you are a bolt on car. Considering they are "only" 100 dollars more and you already have the engine apart is hard to argue with. You will have peace of mind for the future if you wanted to mod for more power.

You talked me into it haha
I found them cheapest on this site and wondering if anyone has bought from here??
http://lightningmotorsports.com/arp/arp-head-stud/bolt-kits/2564201/i-514796.aspx
 

2003DSGMACH1

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If you don't mind me asking how much did they charge to do your heads? I have I set that I like to get freshened up .
 

MalcolmV8

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You might check with MMR on the ARP hardware too. Most the time they have the cheapest prices I can find, even cheaper than Summit Racing.

Correct part # given up above for the head gaskets. Use the black ones.
All other info above is good, ratchet tensioners etc.

As for pulling the heads, I normally always pull the motor but I have done it in the engine bay and it's no easy task. I recommend pulling the motor for sure. If your long tubes are huge and in the way the motor will have to come out the bottom.
On a stock exhaust manifold car engine out the top is easier, unless you have a lift then out the bottom is easier regardless of exhaust setup.
 

IllCobra

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You might check with MMR on the ARP hardware too. Most the time they have the cheapest prices I can find, even cheaper than Summit Racing.

Correct part # given up above for the head gaskets. Use the black ones.
All other info above is good, ratchet tensioners etc.

As for pulling the heads, I normally always pull the motor but I have done it in the engine bay and it's no easy task. I recommend pulling the motor for sure. If your long tubes are huge and in the way the motor will have to come out the bottom.
On a stock exhaust manifold car engine out the top is easier, unless you have a lift then out the bottom is easier regardless of exhaust setup.

Will call mmr monday and see what their prices are on the arp2000 head studs. Do you know if they price match?
 

MalcolmV8

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Will call mmr monday and see what their prices are on the arp2000 head studs. Do you know if they price match?

I don't know if they price match. When I've called around and searched online they've just quoted me the best price. Be worth a phone call anyways.
 

IllCobra

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I don't know if they price match. When I've called around and searched online they've just quoted me the best price. Be worth a phone call anyways.

Will do.
I have Mac LT, and luckily someone (scrun johnson) on youtube just uploaded a complete engine removal which should make the process a little easier. He removed his headers during the process so i guess i'm going to as well.
 

NateDogg

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illcobra, I'm doing the exact same thing, let me know where you get the cheapest arp studs.

What shop in florida did you have redo your heads?
 

IllCobra

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illcobra, I'm doing the exact same thing, let me know where you get the cheapest arp studs.

What shop in florida did you have redo your heads?

Looks like for ARP 156-4301 the cheapest place will be THMotorsports @ $277.18 with shipping.

The stronger ARP 256-4201 I found at Lightning Motorsports for $370 after shipping.

I took my heads to Tim at MPR, they're in Boynton Beach.

If you remember, I was the guy that was contacting you about buying your SB Cobra. In hindsight, having the valve seat drop on me and having to spend a couple grand after parts and labor right off the bat, i wish i would have just waited a bit longer and bought yours haha.
What a sorry coincidence that we both up getting screwed, though, I don't think the guy i bought mine from knew the valve seat was going to drop...
Anyway, I'm sure you're going to have to go with the stronger head studs since you're pushing much more power than i am. I thought i was set on buying the 256-4201 but i just don't see the reason to if the 156-4301 will do the job just fine. Hell, there are people running stock head bolts with aftermarket blowers. I guess i'm just sick of spending money on the car just to get it running and every dollar spent i could have used to buy parts that i could have at least felt (power) or see (rims,tires, gauges). Rant over haha
 

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