Forged Rods and pistons
- Thread starter dynasty_365
- Start date
We do offer the Manley in the 11 to 1 also, same price, it is just not listed on their site. The diamonds are not a bad piston but not as nice as the Manley (we are a authorized dealer for both)
Yes they do. We have used them plenty of times.
Diamond is a awesome piston. What I have in mine as well. For anything that's a bigger than usual build, we like using a custom diamond piston and oliver rod. But the manley rod and piston ARE a great combo as well and we trust very much. Chris's 953rwhp single turbo car uses a manley rod and piston
please explain
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Piston noise is generated by both skirt profile and ultimately piston to wall clearance. By moving the guage point up (as Manley has done) the piston becomes more stable in the bore and thus more quiet, the Diamond can also be kept quiet but the piston to wall needs to be a little tighter than the Manley because of the skirt profile (this is not bad, just different)
H-beam rod? or billet?
I guess I don't understand how that is a confusing question. Let me try again, which forged pistons will make the least amount of noise?
I know you said you werent balling which is why you couldnt get the aluminator but the cost of labor for pulling a motor and building it up is almost double if not more then a direct engine swap so id factor that in...
For your application the H beam is fine, you may also want to look into the special we are running on a whole new MMR 1000 shortblock for just $3699 ! That includes all of the parts we have discussed along with a 1 year warranty! You can sell your stock shortblock and do really well as far as out of pocket is concerned! :beer:
MMR
Modular Mustang Racing
H beam
I've been working with both pistons for a long time. Owned both as well and I have never seen or been asked this. Hence why I asked what? But now that I see MMR explaining more, I have been asked your question in different ways. NO harm bud.
Whatever you do just make sure you dont confuse a quality part due to its price. . .Go with whatever completes your build for use and longevity AND YOUR WALLET
do not get it confused and let your thread get "Vendor Jacked" and go with he who provides the largest answer with the largest vocabulary. You need to keep in mind that you are going for street right? you are not trying to make some 10000000000000000000000000000 hp car and set world records.
Go with some of the boss stuff, its affordable and well designed shit, you can do your boss short block and maybe do some porting in the heads and a centri-blower paxtons look pretty epic, and you are good to go with your 650hp range and see some longevity with your 10psi boost range.
I mean its different if you had the bucks to build engines after every event then hell go with the 3500 dollar rotating assembly and all that jazz. Gotta keep that in mind, there are one or two Vendors that post on this site regularly that forget we the general public are not going to go build and I quote "80,000k" race car.
PM me and I'll make a suggestion on who to talk to on a short block build thats worth your time and money and worth putting in your car.
-Michael
do not get it confused and let your thread get "Vendor Jacked" and go with he who provides the largest answer with the largest vocabulary. You need to keep in mind that you are going for street right? you are not trying to make some 10000000000000000000000000000 hp car and set world records.
Go with some of the boss stuff, its affordable and well designed shit, you can do your boss short block and maybe do some porting in the heads and a centri-blower paxtons look pretty epic, and you are good to go with your 650hp range and see some longevity with your 10psi boost range.
I mean its different if you had the bucks to build engines after every event then hell go with the 3500 dollar rotating assembly and all that jazz. Gotta keep that in mind, there are one or two Vendors that post on this site regularly that forget we the general public are not going to go build and I quote "80,000k" race car.
PM me and I'll make a suggestion on who to talk to on a short block build thats worth your time and money and worth putting in your car.
-Michael
^ i think they know that it's a street car, that will be in the 700whp+ range but never over 1000whp.
I'm considering doing eagle H-beam rods. People are pushing 600-700whp through them on 4 cylinder imports and revving to 10,000rpms or more... i don't see why they wouldn't support 1000whp on double the amount of rods and less RPMs...
I'm considering doing eagle H-beam rods. People are pushing 600-700whp through them on 4 cylinder imports and revving to 10,000rpms or more... i don't see why they wouldn't support 1000whp on double the amount of rods and less RPMs...
Regardless of what route you go, keep up posted.
Yeah i just sold my bike, and I have the wife's bike for sale and tax return coming up ... so the Hellion TT setup along with a built bottom end is definitely happening very soon. Perhaps a full fuel system and built transmission also.
^ I hear ya,
I am just making an attempt to explain that there are some more cost efficient methods to building a short block.
let me say this from my stand point.
I manage a Transmission Shop here in middle-of the styx-Kentucky, and I build cost efficient Transmission, WHY ? because my tranny's are not stuck behind 1500hp cars second of all we are not some mega high dollar race shop with more money than have have sense.
that being said if a customer comes to me I try me damn best to build him what he/she NEEDS for what they are DOING, which always saves money.
so if you are building a 700hp car I am going to build you a OD trans or 3 speed which ever you like to handle that power range, not some mega giant stupid trans that will hold 1000hp plus. the cost difference is outrageous. . .same with these motors, if you want to hang out around650-700 go with the boss junk it will work just fine.
Thats what I am getting at the right part for the right application, longevity and wallet wise. Now I understand that alot of folks like to use the words "bullet proof" and such and use that as a thought process to spend giga bucks on overkill parts, NOT NEEDED, if we would get in the mind set of "buying that the **** you need" than we would probably see alot more low 10 second 11-13 model cars on here and happier customers that dont feel like that got raped just to make their car hold the minimal boost application or nitrous they have been wanting out of the DD street cars.
END RANT
thanks,
Michael
I am just making an attempt to explain that there are some more cost efficient methods to building a short block.
let me say this from my stand point.
I manage a Transmission Shop here in middle-of the styx-Kentucky, and I build cost efficient Transmission, WHY ? because my tranny's are not stuck behind 1500hp cars second of all we are not some mega high dollar race shop with more money than have have sense.
that being said if a customer comes to me I try me damn best to build him what he/she NEEDS for what they are DOING, which always saves money.
so if you are building a 700hp car I am going to build you a OD trans or 3 speed which ever you like to handle that power range, not some mega giant stupid trans that will hold 1000hp plus. the cost difference is outrageous. . .same with these motors, if you want to hang out around650-700 go with the boss junk it will work just fine.
Thats what I am getting at the right part for the right application, longevity and wallet wise. Now I understand that alot of folks like to use the words "bullet proof" and such and use that as a thought process to spend giga bucks on overkill parts, NOT NEEDED, if we would get in the mind set of "buying that the **** you need" than we would probably see alot more low 10 second 11-13 model cars on here and happier customers that dont feel like that got raped just to make their car hold the minimal boost application or nitrous they have been wanting out of the DD street cars.
END RANT
thanks,
Michael
I know that the boss shortblock is amazing, but I look at those rods... and how thin the are... and it scares me. I'm going build the block.. I'll just go with something aftermarket that will support a little more whp... but not necessarily 2000whp lol. My car will always stay in the 700-900whp~ range depending on tranction and what not. I'm starting at 700whp and going from there.
do you offer some kind of solution to the MT82 ? I'm afraid once I start upping the boost past 700whp it'll shit the bed.
do you offer some kind of solution to the MT82 ? I'm afraid once I start upping the boost past 700whp it'll shit the bed.
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Yes,
Currently over this winter the shop owner and myself are going to be putting together some transmission options for the 11-up GTs, with that said unfortunately they will be AUTO-trans
looks like I am going to be able to squeeze an 850hp max 4r70w into the picture but. . .that 850 is the max I would say these transmissions are going to hold all day every day at 650-700 hp for higher horse your can go with the Turbo400, but for the street guys that wanna still drive em everywhere the 4r70w is going to the one I assume will be the best seller.
I myself have an mt-82 junk trans and I have called liberty and talked to a few guys out there and for around 3800 you can have it face plated 1-4 and have some hardened guts installed its looks and sounds like a very stout build. by the time you buy a good clutch and flywheel you are going to be well in the high 4k range on money however.
its gonna be interesting and, we are just starting the first phase of trying to get the best parts and good pricing all put together and its MY hope that we can have our first auto trans produced and ready for testing in the early early spring since I live in KY and winter is not time to be trying to test a tranny out lol.
Check my edit.
Does the stock A6 not hold up 700whp? I thought I read that those transmission are pretty stout. I'd love me an A6 like the stock one, that has awesome MPGs on the HWY, while still a very nice transmission to race with.
Does anyone have some sort of "re build" for the stock A6 transmission? I think I'm going to regret spending $5k for a bullet proof manual transmission when the auto might be cheaper and we all know they are faster already.
Does the stock A6 not hold up 700whp? I thought I read that those transmission are pretty stout. I'd love me an A6 like the stock one, that has awesome MPGs on the HWY, while still a very nice transmission to race with.
Does anyone have some sort of "re build" for the stock A6 transmission? I think I'm going to regret spending $5k for a bullet proof manual transmission when the auto might be cheaper and we all know they are faster already.
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when i first saw the a6 cars hauling ass down the track i called ZF and and talked to some of our parts providers about a year ago. . .
the response i got was insane, I quote "I have never seen a auto trans hold up like the a6 does at hp ranges and track times like they are throwing out"
i have not seen yet a bunch of upgrades available to the general public for the a6 except for preventative maintenance and stall converters. . .I can get seal kits and replacement parts at the moment but nothing that suggests big after market go fast parts. that is leading me to believe that currently they are holding till lets say around 800ish maybe ?????
unless someone else can recall I see guys going to about 700-750 on the stock a6 with a converter and if they want to go higher its time for a turbo 350-400 or a PowerGlide.
thats just my personal observations.
the response i got was insane, I quote "I have never seen a auto trans hold up like the a6 does at hp ranges and track times like they are throwing out"
i have not seen yet a bunch of upgrades available to the general public for the a6 except for preventative maintenance and stall converters. . .I can get seal kits and replacement parts at the moment but nothing that suggests big after market go fast parts. that is leading me to believe that currently they are holding till lets say around 800ish maybe ?????
unless someone else can recall I see guys going to about 700-750 on the stock a6 with a converter and if they want to go higher its time for a turbo 350-400 or a PowerGlide.
thats just my personal observations.
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