I sold my vmp blower and I have a good bit of cash saved up. Should I buy a local used HP twin turbo kit with 62mm BB turbos or piece together my own single turbo setup? Looking to run mid to low 8's in the quarter.
Going turbo question
- Thread starter zTOOzLETHALz
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That kit can get you 1000whp, and modifying it can get you to 1100+. It depends on the price. It's a decent kit but needs a lot of "massaging" or rather reengineering to work well at 20+psi... it has flow issues with bigger boost.
What intake manifold do you plan to run? Or rather what rpm window do you want to make power in? If you want low end to 6500rpm power, 60's is a better route on a 4.6. I have 62's on a 5.3 and they take a sec to warm up haha. My head and cam combo is largely to blame though but it's built for revving. Trade offs.
Piecing a kit with Calebs forward facing headers and running 62's if you'll be revving it high will make 1200-1300+ which can propel 6's honestly.
You only need about 900whp to run deep 8's in a sorted car. Get 60's to the 1.30-1.35 range and it'll do it with less than 900whp in a 3400lbs terminator.
If you plan to stay under 7500, a pair of 60's will hit a little faster and work overall better assuming a big A/R to get the top end flow out of them. It's easier to make power with modular by revving them out. A well ported c head with a stage 2 cam and a Sullivan running 62's would be a nice 7500-8000rpm setup with a standalone and e85.
I did a custom 62/65 setup with stage 3 fgt heads, aggressive cams knowing I'll spin it to 8500 soon enough with e85 and a standalone. It's a 5.3 though so I did a bit bigger on the head work to fill the space.
Honestly a destroked 4.6 at 9000rpm would need very little boost to make great power if setup right but it would be a peaky little skittle. Would last a long time though at that displacement unless it was just raced every 1/4 at a time, maybe a season or 2 if so.
Any way you go, plan $15k and be happy if it comes out any cheaper. Fast and reliable is a fools game but trying to do it on a reasonable (given the components) budget almost always yields more reliability.
If you do plan to rev it high, get the full mmr billet timing guides, reversed passenger cam gear, new oem chains, billet trigger/reluctor wheel, lash adjusters etc. It will slipp timing a few degrees every 500 miles if you don't...
What intake manifold do you plan to run? Or rather what rpm window do you want to make power in? If you want low end to 6500rpm power, 60's is a better route on a 4.6. I have 62's on a 5.3 and they take a sec to warm up haha. My head and cam combo is largely to blame though but it's built for revving. Trade offs.
Piecing a kit with Calebs forward facing headers and running 62's if you'll be revving it high will make 1200-1300+ which can propel 6's honestly.
You only need about 900whp to run deep 8's in a sorted car. Get 60's to the 1.30-1.35 range and it'll do it with less than 900whp in a 3400lbs terminator.
If you plan to stay under 7500, a pair of 60's will hit a little faster and work overall better assuming a big A/R to get the top end flow out of them. It's easier to make power with modular by revving them out. A well ported c head with a stage 2 cam and a Sullivan running 62's would be a nice 7500-8000rpm setup with a standalone and e85.
I did a custom 62/65 setup with stage 3 fgt heads, aggressive cams knowing I'll spin it to 8500 soon enough with e85 and a standalone. It's a 5.3 though so I did a bit bigger on the head work to fill the space.
Honestly a destroked 4.6 at 9000rpm would need very little boost to make great power if setup right but it would be a peaky little skittle. Would last a long time though at that displacement unless it was just raced every 1/4 at a time, maybe a season or 2 if so.
Any way you go, plan $15k and be happy if it comes out any cheaper. Fast and reliable is a fools game but trying to do it on a reasonable (given the components) budget almost always yields more reliability.
If you do plan to rev it high, get the full mmr billet timing guides, reversed passenger cam gear, new oem chains, billet trigger/reluctor wheel, lash adjusters etc. It will slipp timing a few degrees every 500 miles if you don't...
Also, heat will be the thing you'll want to handle pretty early on. Play it by ear as everyone's driving styles vary. You may be fine with factory stuff but depending on climate, weather etc and habits, ahappy iat range to shoot for is atleast 5° below ambient and no more than 40° above ambient when rallying. Forget the days of 140-160° inlet temps as ok. Sure they may still be, but that iat in a 600whp engine probably isn't healthy but it's not overtly dangerous. In a 900+whp engine it's dumb. Precognition is 15-20° away.
Engine oil cooler, trans cooler, diff cooler and a proper radiator, Lincoln mk8 fan, and water wetter mix etc will dramatically help with heat but again you may not need them if you don't get on it hard for more than a few passes a night. It's continued medium to heavy driving that will quickly overwork the stock equipment. If e85 is available, set it up and save so much hassle if you haven't already.
The trans will need at the least a very capable clutch and decent flywheel, the rear needs a total build with ftbr etc or a well executed sra swap for 1.35 60's.
Brakes wheels tires bla bla blah plan on going half broke to have it run right but it'll be pretty damn fun.
Engine oil cooler, trans cooler, diff cooler and a proper radiator, Lincoln mk8 fan, and water wetter mix etc will dramatically help with heat but again you may not need them if you don't get on it hard for more than a few passes a night. It's continued medium to heavy driving that will quickly overwork the stock equipment. If e85 is available, set it up and save so much hassle if you haven't already.
The trans will need at the least a very capable clutch and decent flywheel, the rear needs a total build with ftbr etc or a well executed sra swap for 1.35 60's.
Brakes wheels tires bla bla blah plan on going half broke to have it run right but it'll be pretty damn fun.
I can buy the used HP performance kit Monday for $6,000 that comes with everything except for the intake manifolds and the mid pipe/ catback because I want to run open downpipe anyway. I would run a Sullivan lower intake and a edelbrock upper with a 90mm foxbody accufab tb. I already have the 1400hp return fuel system, built TH400 and SRA. Also I have a 4.6 with 10.5:1 compression, ported heads and custom grind cams. Running a scavenger pump and oil restrictors is what makes me think just going with a big single with cg fab hot side. I'll post a pic of the HP kit on the owners car
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CG fab all day, Caleb makes great stuff
$6K is way too much IMO. I've had two HP kits, first one I bought used in 2012 with Garrett GT3582R's, ported intake to oil pan, for $3800. Still running strong for the new owner. 2 months ago I just sold all the hot pipes from the second HP kit for $500. HP kits work well and as stated will get you in the 1000-1100 range pretty easy. The pipes on HP kits are mild steel, usually jet hot coated, but eventually start to rust.
last week I made 957rwhp and 879 tq thru an auto with an On3 twin kit that I modified. On 24.5lbs, still more to go. Using On3 61mm turbos, swapped out the T3 flanges for v-bands, 1.06 AR hot sides, Treadstone intercooler, fabbed my own 3.5 cold side, Tial 44mm wastegates, Procharger race BOV. Built motor, 9:1 compression, ported c heads, baby turbo cams, ported Mach 1 lower with an adapted B intake lid (it's a 97 Cobra). On3's quality has come around over the past few years, there is just some parts that I would upgrade if going with them. The pipes are stainless steel and good quality. I've heard people previously having the welds crack on them but nothing recently. For good measure I added welds inside the v band flanges on the 4 main connections just to be safe but don't think it was required.
Either of those kits still require a scavenge pump, they're easy to mount, wire and plumb but the wondering if it goes out factor is on your mind every now and then.
I've never ran a single kit so I have no feedback on those but either way, most kits will require some tweaking or finishing up of some kind.
last week I made 957rwhp and 879 tq thru an auto with an On3 twin kit that I modified. On 24.5lbs, still more to go. Using On3 61mm turbos, swapped out the T3 flanges for v-bands, 1.06 AR hot sides, Treadstone intercooler, fabbed my own 3.5 cold side, Tial 44mm wastegates, Procharger race BOV. Built motor, 9:1 compression, ported c heads, baby turbo cams, ported Mach 1 lower with an adapted B intake lid (it's a 97 Cobra). On3's quality has come around over the past few years, there is just some parts that I would upgrade if going with them. The pipes are stainless steel and good quality. I've heard people previously having the welds crack on them but nothing recently. For good measure I added welds inside the v band flanges on the 4 main connections just to be safe but don't think it was required.
Either of those kits still require a scavenge pump, they're easy to mount, wire and plumb but the wondering if it goes out factor is on your mind every now and then.
I've never ran a single kit so I have no feedback on those but either way, most kits will require some tweaking or finishing up of some kind.
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