sick....need to get one for wifeys car....
Was wondering why it was so damn sunny in EVERY photo of yours buddy, California. Its rained here in Atlanta for a solid week, and is expected to snow this weekend...
Han Solo Got a Shelby GT350
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sick....need to get one for wifeys car....
Was wondering why it was so damn sunny in EVERY photo of yours buddy, California. Its rained here in Atlanta for a solid week, and is expected to snow this weekend...
Honestly man we are pretty lucky to have favorable weather up here. Can drive your car year around if you don't mind the car getting wet. Right now it has been a little stormy and will be pouring this weekend.
That shoot from the winery was done around 2-4pm. Lots of sun up high with no tree cover.
I'd totally take some rainy days vs cold weather. I hate cold weather. So from like Late September til March I'm not a happy camper. hahaha
California's weather is perfect for me. Need to move out that way!
Well look what I found waiting for me on my doorstep. Shit just got real after the long wait. Dealing with a sick 10 month old so no real time to dig into anything. When I get to unboxing I will detail it all in my build thread. Hoping to have it all installed by Valentine's Day. Then get some track day action come spring. My understanding is this is the first kit ever shipped to a customer. Many complained but I am still saying Thanks Ford Performance.
Fun indeed
This contains the Track/R transmission with built in pump, transmission cooler, transmission lines, and hardware. The same bulletproof setup proven to work on track. Since the tech packages did not come with the transmission cooler as an option.
Once this is in I will sell the tech pack transmission which will be a great upgrade for any non Voodoo powered S550 or kit car.
Last night I got a little carried away. Had the house to myself and idle hands are the Shelby's playground. Plus I have having parts laying around the garage that I have not installed. I decided to tackle the Caliperfexion brake caliper studs from @Epiphany, Transmission scoop from Shelby American, and to start the transmission cooler install. To tell you the truth I got a lot further than I expected. Anyway, onto the data....
First off removing the 6GR wheels was relatively easy. I have seen several threads about the lug nut holes being too small for most sockets. I found that my 3/4 in socket wrapped in electrical tape to prevent scratching worked just fine and fit the holes perfectly. My guess is people run into issues when using an impact socket?
The Caliperfexion studs are a great piece and well worth the investment Install was easy enough and very straight forward. At the time I got the kit it did not include the T60 torx bit needed to remove the OEM brake caliper bolts, but now @Epiphany has gone a step up and started to include them in the setup. Purchasing from him will get you everything you need to get these studs on the car.
]
Removal of the stock caliper bolts takes a little muscle given all the loc-tite from the factory. It is IMPERATIVE you clean out the threads of the knuckle before installing the new studs. These pictures do not do justice to the amount of loc-tite residue and metal shavings that are in there. I have only had my calipers off once for the R swap. There was a bunch of aluminum that came out from the knuckle. Every time you do a brake pad change and have to remove/install that bolt into the knuckle you will be damaging those threads. I used a wire brush to get it clean and then hit it with some compressed air as instructed. It was not until now that I really appreciated how useful the studs will be in efficiency and protecting the aluminum knuckle.
Once I let the loc-tite cure for about 25 minutes I placed some anti-seize on the collar of the stud as instructed, then reinstalled them. I had some APR assembly lube lying around so I applied that and torqued it down to 80ft/lbs. Definitely a good upgrade and @Tob was available for any random questions I had which was great.
I kept the ball rolling and got the transmission scoop in as well. This one was easy with only 4 attachment points. They all line up with the holes on the transmission so it is east to get on. Hardest part are the rear two bolts that will require a swivel and an extension to make it easy. I did notice a spot on the passenger side where the scoop was just barely contacting the transmission casing. I placed some material in-between the two to prevent a possible rubbing/rattling issue.
Last but not least I started on the transmission cooler swap. My goal was to get the transmission cooler plumbed and in, So when it came time to drop the transmission we would be ready to go. I was able to accomplish that goal without much fuss, and will go into detail about it when I do a writeup for the install. For now here is a little picture of what should be behind the passenger side bumper on the tech package.
A few items coming in from ZL1 Addons, and still finishing up some work on the trunk. Lots to do before Knotts in April
First off removing the 6GR wheels was relatively easy. I have seen several threads about the lug nut holes being too small for most sockets. I found that my 3/4 in socket wrapped in electrical tape to prevent scratching worked just fine and fit the holes perfectly. My guess is people run into issues when using an impact socket?
The Caliperfexion studs are a great piece and well worth the investment Install was easy enough and very straight forward. At the time I got the kit it did not include the T60 torx bit needed to remove the OEM brake caliper bolts, but now @Epiphany has gone a step up and started to include them in the setup. Purchasing from him will get you everything you need to get these studs on the car.
]
Removal of the stock caliper bolts takes a little muscle given all the loc-tite from the factory. It is IMPERATIVE you clean out the threads of the knuckle before installing the new studs. These pictures do not do justice to the amount of loc-tite residue and metal shavings that are in there. I have only had my calipers off once for the R swap. There was a bunch of aluminum that came out from the knuckle. Every time you do a brake pad change and have to remove/install that bolt into the knuckle you will be damaging those threads. I used a wire brush to get it clean and then hit it with some compressed air as instructed. It was not until now that I really appreciated how useful the studs will be in efficiency and protecting the aluminum knuckle.
Once I let the loc-tite cure for about 25 minutes I placed some anti-seize on the collar of the stud as instructed, then reinstalled them. I had some APR assembly lube lying around so I applied that and torqued it down to 80ft/lbs. Definitely a good upgrade and @Tob was available for any random questions I had which was great.
I kept the ball rolling and got the transmission scoop in as well. This one was easy with only 4 attachment points. They all line up with the holes on the transmission so it is east to get on. Hardest part are the rear two bolts that will require a swivel and an extension to make it easy. I did notice a spot on the passenger side where the scoop was just barely contacting the transmission casing. I placed some material in-between the two to prevent a possible rubbing/rattling issue.
Last but not least I started on the transmission cooler swap. My goal was to get the transmission cooler plumbed and in, So when it came time to drop the transmission we would be ready to go. I was able to accomplish that goal without much fuss, and will go into detail about it when I do a writeup for the install. For now here is a little picture of what should be behind the passenger side bumper on the tech package.
A few items coming in from ZL1 Addons, and still finishing up some work on the trunk. Lots to do before Knotts in April
You jinxed it. Been raining off and on here for the past 2 weeks.
Bad weather, but good times.
You jinxed it. Been raining off and on here for the past 2 weeks.
Bad weather, but good times.
Oh sweet! I'm down in Ocala for wanna go fast, and there's an R that was procharged running about 155-160 iirc. Avalanche gray. Sexy sexy. Then I drove through tornados and hurricanes Hahahah
Had a chance to spend a little time with the car. Here is what happened
I ordered the GT350 high flow filter from Ford Performance. It has become common knowledge that it is made by Airaid, and they do not try to hide it as you will see in pictures. Price was pretty reasonable at $66, but took about 2 weeks to get. At 7k miles I noticed the stock paper filter was dirtier than I had imagined. Interestingly enough Ford decided to "clock" the filter and have a portion that faces down. There is also a groove molded into the air box for the tab on the filter to seat into. Stuff likes this sparks my interest as to why this was necessary from an engineering standpoint, Maybe someone can let us all know why.
I also had the chance to install the ZL1 Addons tow hook. The piece is pretty robust after handling it. I thought this would be a relatively easy install, and 3 hour later I had it done. I would not call it difficult, but more time consuming than imagined with all the parts I had to remove. Something I would encourage anyone to tackle on their own, but set aside some time and be patient. The basic instructions left out some critical information, as there are more parts to remove than I thought. I did not have my camera out there to step by step pictures, but here is what I did.
1) Jack up the car using universal safety precautions (Jack stand, wheel chocks, etc)
2) Remove front splitter (must come off to reach front belly pan bolts)
3) Remove belly pan
4) Remove passenger side brake duct by taking out the 3 reusable push pins. One attaching the duct to the front bumper, and two attaching to the fender well liner.
5) At this point you will notice a boxed in area under and around the radiator. On each side there is a rubber like panel attached by four reusable push pins. Remove the 4 push pins from rubber air tunnel and open up this area in front of the radiator. The panel is pliable and simply folds back.
6) Remove the air temp sensor that is located in front of the radiator, and attached to the lower boxed portion via a push pin and locating tab. The sensor is attached to a plastic arm with another push pin and locating tab. I had to use the "reach around" method to get to the sensor. It is a little awkward at first, but simple enough.
7) Remove the air temp sensor from the plastic arm, and reinstall the sensor facing toward the driver side of the car. This will shorten the distance it hangs down into the grill, and allow the tow hook room to align to the grille opening.
8) Remove the two nuts from the bumper support bolts
9) Install the tow hook onto the exposed bolts of the bumper support, then reinstall and LOOSELY tighten the nuts.
10) Use the small amount of play on the bracket to align the tow hook receiver to the shaft, and thread it a few turns. It will fit VERY SNUG into the honeycomb grill opening.
11) With the tow hook and bracket fastened together, tighten down the nuts attaching the bracket to the bumper support
12) Tighten up the tow hook shaft to the receiver to your liking
13) Reinstall the brake duct, belly pan, and front splitter
Here are a couple of finished pictures to show the bracket and how tight of a fit the shaft of the tow hook has. The kit comes with a bit to remove any excess plastic from the honeycomb grill, but I did not need to use it on mine.
The newly installed jacking plates worked like a charm as well. Super easy to get the car up in the air now. Very impressed at how rigid the car is, since jacking up the front pinch weld will still get the rear tire off the ground. All the fox body and sn-95 cars I owned would flex like crazy until I had subframe connectors installed.
I ordered the GT350 high flow filter from Ford Performance. It has become common knowledge that it is made by Airaid, and they do not try to hide it as you will see in pictures. Price was pretty reasonable at $66, but took about 2 weeks to get. At 7k miles I noticed the stock paper filter was dirtier than I had imagined. Interestingly enough Ford decided to "clock" the filter and have a portion that faces down. There is also a groove molded into the air box for the tab on the filter to seat into. Stuff likes this sparks my interest as to why this was necessary from an engineering standpoint, Maybe someone can let us all know why.
I also had the chance to install the ZL1 Addons tow hook. The piece is pretty robust after handling it. I thought this would be a relatively easy install, and 3 hour later I had it done. I would not call it difficult, but more time consuming than imagined with all the parts I had to remove. Something I would encourage anyone to tackle on their own, but set aside some time and be patient. The basic instructions left out some critical information, as there are more parts to remove than I thought. I did not have my camera out there to step by step pictures, but here is what I did.
1) Jack up the car using universal safety precautions (Jack stand, wheel chocks, etc)
2) Remove front splitter (must come off to reach front belly pan bolts)
3) Remove belly pan
4) Remove passenger side brake duct by taking out the 3 reusable push pins. One attaching the duct to the front bumper, and two attaching to the fender well liner.
5) At this point you will notice a boxed in area under and around the radiator. On each side there is a rubber like panel attached by four reusable push pins. Remove the 4 push pins from rubber air tunnel and open up this area in front of the radiator. The panel is pliable and simply folds back.
6) Remove the air temp sensor that is located in front of the radiator, and attached to the lower boxed portion via a push pin and locating tab. The sensor is attached to a plastic arm with another push pin and locating tab. I had to use the "reach around" method to get to the sensor. It is a little awkward at first, but simple enough.
7) Remove the air temp sensor from the plastic arm, and reinstall the sensor facing toward the driver side of the car. This will shorten the distance it hangs down into the grill, and allow the tow hook room to align to the grille opening.
8) Remove the two nuts from the bumper support bolts
9) Install the tow hook onto the exposed bolts of the bumper support, then reinstall and LOOSELY tighten the nuts.
10) Use the small amount of play on the bracket to align the tow hook receiver to the shaft, and thread it a few turns. It will fit VERY SNUG into the honeycomb grill opening.
11) With the tow hook and bracket fastened together, tighten down the nuts attaching the bracket to the bumper support
12) Tighten up the tow hook shaft to the receiver to your liking
13) Reinstall the brake duct, belly pan, and front splitter
Here are a couple of finished pictures to show the bracket and how tight of a fit the shaft of the tow hook has. The kit comes with a bit to remove any excess plastic from the honeycomb grill, but I did not need to use it on mine.
The newly installed jacking plates worked like a charm as well. Super easy to get the car up in the air now. Very impressed at how rigid the car is, since jacking up the front pinch weld will still get the rear tire off the ground. All the fox body and sn-95 cars I owned would flex like crazy until I had subframe connectors installed.
A few recent pictures after the tow hook install, new license plate, and trunk hole filler removal.
Thanks man. Looking forward to putting down the wrenches and just enjoying the car this year
Started the transmission swap. Old one is up for sale if you know anyone interested..
I just removed this transmission from my 2016 GT350 Tech package. Transmission has 6500 miles on it with no track days, burnouts, or missed shifts. This model is exclusive to the GT350 and not currently available for purchase to the public. Probably the best transmission offered from Ford to date. Light years ahead of the M82. The transmission is still wet with the oem fluid from the factory. This model does not have the internal pump which makes it much easier to adapt to your coyote or project car.
Below is a link for more information regarding the transmission if you do not already know about the specifics. A simple google search will result in plenty of reading material.
http://www.mustangandfords.com/news/1509-2016-shelby-gt350-gets-beefed-up-tremec-tr-3160-six-speed/
The transmission is available as follows:
Transmission only $2200
Transmission + OEM shifter $2300
Transmission + Shelby American cooling scoop $2400
Transmission + Scoop + Shifter $2500
Local pickup preferred, but I have the materials to ship it if you want to pay for shipping.
I just removed this transmission from my 2016 GT350 Tech package. Transmission has 6500 miles on it with no track days, burnouts, or missed shifts. This model is exclusive to the GT350 and not currently available for purchase to the public. Probably the best transmission offered from Ford to date. Light years ahead of the M82. The transmission is still wet with the oem fluid from the factory. This model does not have the internal pump which makes it much easier to adapt to your coyote or project car.
Below is a link for more information regarding the transmission if you do not already know about the specifics. A simple google search will result in plenty of reading material.
http://www.mustangandfords.com/news/1509-2016-shelby-gt350-gets-beefed-up-tremec-tr-3160-six-speed/
The transmission is available as follows:
Transmission only $2200
Transmission + OEM shifter $2300
Transmission + Shelby American cooling scoop $2400
Transmission + Scoop + Shifter $2500
Local pickup preferred, but I have the materials to ship it if you want to pay for shipping.
Well it has been one hell of a day. First off George @MGW had a package waiting for me when I get home.
I think as men we have developed the ability to look at a woman and know based on the way she carries herself that the sex will be amazing. I have to say that this is the same feeling I get with this shifter. I have to give a ton of thanks to @Tob and George @MGW for what they did in assisting me with obtaining the shifter. Customer service was off the charts, and I hope to be able to fly down south one day to meet both of these gentleman. I owe them a huge thanks, and their generosity was tremendous. :hail::cheers::headbang:
Installation was straight forward and the original install video was a big help. I believe @Tob and @MGW will be releasing a new installation video very soon as there are a few minor differences with the new setup.
Having the driveshaft and exhaust out of the way allowed me to install the shifter through the bottom and have much more room to work. Although not necessary, I am glad I waited to do it this way. The car is just about ready to go on the floor now that the shifter is in. Just the driveshaft, fluids, and exhaust, and interior shifter pieces need to go on
My son also took his first steps today. Thus far I cannot complain, and look forward to driving the car this weekend.
I think as men we have developed the ability to look at a woman and know based on the way she carries herself that the sex will be amazing. I have to say that this is the same feeling I get with this shifter. I have to give a ton of thanks to @Tob and George @MGW for what they did in assisting me with obtaining the shifter. Customer service was off the charts, and I hope to be able to fly down south one day to meet both of these gentleman. I owe them a huge thanks, and their generosity was tremendous. :hail::cheers::headbang:
Installation was straight forward and the original install video was a big help. I believe @Tob and @MGW will be releasing a new installation video very soon as there are a few minor differences with the new setup.
Having the driveshaft and exhaust out of the way allowed me to install the shifter through the bottom and have much more room to work. Although not necessary, I am glad I waited to do it this way. The car is just about ready to go on the floor now that the shifter is in. Just the driveshaft, fluids, and exhaust, and interior shifter pieces need to go on
My son also took his first steps today. Thus far I cannot complain, and look forward to driving the car this weekend.
Car is looking good! Cale is a good guy to work with. I've bought a few cars from him as have friends. I actually remember talking to him about the GT350 when they first came out and if he was getting any he had said an LEO had dibs. Which is take is you or your buddy. Is he still doing the car shows at his dealership? Last one I was at was a few years back.
Cale is a good dude. I have been trying to get him back into hosting cars and coffee, but his lot is so packed we couldn't hold all the vehicles.
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Shit just got real! Finished up the transmission swap and getting the MGW all settled inside of the car. As well as a fresh oil change. So far it has been a very successful venture, but I need to get some miles on the car. Here are a few things I wanted to highlight...
Oil Change:
After seeing and experiencing the drama with messy oil changes I had a bit of an Epiphany (see what I did there). I had a small funnel laying next to me as I pulled off the inspection cover and thought it would be a perfect way to catch oil coming out of the filter. Turns out I was right. The funnel is wide enough to catch all the droplets, and sits low enough to allow clearance to reach up behind the wheel and unscrew the filter. All the oil is directed into the pan and I had VERY LITTLE run off. I think all that try this will be pleased. Saved me a bunch of time.
Oil Separator Draining
During the oil change I disconnected and drained both oil separators. This was after approximately 6500 miles of street driving. I was very surprised at the amount of fluid that came from the passenger side of the car. The driver side was bone dry. If you are operating your Shelby without one, I would purchase at least the passenger side ASAP.
Driveshaft Install:
Ford has made all the driveshaft bolts one time use. Transmission flange, center bearing, and differential flange. The install instructions did not include the torque figures, but the Helm info I got from @Tob specified 41 ft/lbs. as I Installed the bolts to the differential they wouldn't thread. I looked a little closer and saw these 2 wax rings on them. Presumably to mark a used bolt, and prevent the bracket from coming off. In either case these need to be taken off before install. Peels off easy with a nail or screw driver.
Transmission Fluid:
Once the transmission was all attached I went to add the required 3.3 quarts of fluid. I nestled in under the transmission with my fluid pump ready to go. The bolt was a little hard to remove so I had to muscle it. Then all of a sudden BOOM! Red transmission fluid all over my face, and now I know how a porn star feels. I thought Ford shipped these dry!, but I was very wrong. The transmissions comes filled to the top plug. Seeing as I am the guinea pig, the rest of you can save some money at the parts counter. I still needed to fire up the car up for 2 minutes with the clutch engaged so fluid could circulate and then recheck
MGW Install:
The interior portion of the install was easy thanks to the video. I managed to pull the center console and reinstall it without breaking any clips. The new boot @MGW includes went on in place of the foam contraption. I did need to adjust my lock out a tad, but once that was done it felt damn smooth. Cutting of the leather shift boot plastic was accomplished without fuss using my hack saw. Screwed on the shifter ball and marveled at the car. I have to applaud @MGW for all the forethought put into reducing NVH. The rubber gasket on the rear shifter mount plate, rubber caps on he shifter body, extra interior sound deadening. I am not an engineer so I wouldn't know what locations were susceptible to noise, but I see how much work that must take to identify. Fully installed I cant help but admire the craftsmanship on the shifter coin and base. So glad I had @MGW do the custom coloring for me. DEAD SEXY!
I very nervously attached the battery cables, fired up the car, and it came to life. At this point I did not see any leaks and only the feint smell of transmission fluid as it began coursing through the coolers new vanes. No smoke, no bangs, no weird sounds. I hope the first drive goes well, but currently working on bleeding the clutch. pumping the pedal did not result in a proper bleed, going to need a vacuum pump.
Teaser shots....
Full photoshoot with the new Signature Wheels SV101 coming soon...
Full photoshoot with the new Signature Wheels SV101 coming soon...
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