Running the 79mm with jlt
How much power can these new 5.0 motors handle?
- Thread starter lx347cid
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Running the 79mm with jlt
How much powah? I dunno.... But I plan to find out!
People talk about the rods being weak, how many have actually seen them break on a 5.0?
The pistons are another story. the rings seem to break, or the piston just completely falls apart.
Oil pump gears are also a major cause of failing. Most of the guys running it up to over 700 are using Billet oil pump gears (like myself). Install on those is between 7-900, it is a 10-12 hour job.
These motors seem to be all about the tuning.
The pistons are another story. the rings seem to break, or the piston just completely falls apart.
Oil pump gears are also a major cause of failing. Most of the guys running it up to over 700 are using Billet oil pump gears (like myself). Install on those is between 7-900, it is a 10-12 hour job.
These motors seem to be all about the tuning.
I've only seen a couple guys who did the rods in but I'd believe what the coyote engineers said, when they stated they were the weakest link. Why lie about such a thing?
Were the pistons actually the problem or was it crap rings or broken valves that beat up the piston after being reved too high?
In reference to the oil pump gears. How many reported failures are there and at what power levels and driving conditions? I have not looked into this at all. Are guys just blindly replacing them because they are plastic and they already have their block apart or are there lots of failures that have happened?
The tuning comment is blatantly obvious. You can build up the the best long block with the best parts and have it put together by the best builder. If you install it and have Jon Doe of backyard tuning calibrate the thing you are setting yourself up for failure.
On ANY engine tuning is what keeps you on the road and not cursing in the garage.
All I'm saying if your going to do a supercharger then don't go over 12psi on pump gas and I'm not sure what the limit is with a turbo setup.
I think the whole PSI thing is irrelevant. Different blowers make different power at the same PSI. Different size turbos make different power at the same PSI.
A 96mm turbo at 10psi will make a shit ton more power than a 76mm at the same PSI.
I'm sure the same applies to a 4L blower vs a 2.3L blower..
A 96mm turbo at 10psi will make a shit ton more power than a 76mm at the same PSI.
I'm sure the same applies to a 4L blower vs a 2.3L blower..
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I wish I knew the answer to this as well because I am itching for another round of upgrades. I have a Roush TVS, 79mm, VMP tune, and I want MOAR! I am too scared to push it any further because I don't want to deal with an expensive disaster.
How many people are running a TVS with more than 10 lbs. of boost and more than 600 RWHP? I'm not sure how safe I would feel adding another 2 lbs. or so of boost.
How many people are running a TVS with more than 10 lbs. of boost and more than 600 RWHP? I'm not sure how safe I would feel adding another 2 lbs. or so of boost.
^Exactly D.T.R. It's all about how the power is applied. Like I said earlier, a twin screw blower is probably the worst case scenario for the rotating assembly. You have instant boost and torque right off idle as opposed to near linearly increasing boost and torque on a centri or turbo. The low end smack in the face the rotating assembly receives from a twin screw is much more harsh than boost ramping up through the power band on a centri and turbo setup.
600whp is plenty for the streets man... if you're concerned about what "might" happen then I just would keep it where it's at.
I'm already looking at a 2013 SHO v6 TT as my DD for when I turbo the 5.0... that way I won't give a rat's ass if it breaks
Couldn't agree any more.
I was at 575rwhp with the 90mm pulley and jlt intake at like 8.5 psi now im running 79mm and im at about 12.5 psi and will be getting dyno numbers soon
What do you consider "big power"? Most seem to be keeping it under 600 RWHP. Do you think problems are going to start creeping up for all of us at those levels?
The car is tuned by Ryne Cunningham at Cunningham Motorsports. He is one of the best Mustang tuners right now. He tuned my 2011 GT. Now im waiting for all my Boss mods to go see him.
Slagburn's car was making about 500-520whp for over a year and something like 25K miles. He upped the boost and was making right at 560whp for iirc about 7k miles and is now building his motor thanks to an oh so slightly bent rod. He got lucky and cought it before it completely let go and put windows in the block. I believe he was shifting at 7K also. If you want a true to god reliable power limit I would say 525whp and you can enjoy the motor living for a long time like that. Once you go above that it starts to become a crap shoot.
Roush warrants their stuff at 3yr 36k at 575hp at the crank, I'd say that is what is reliable. Anything more than that and you are just reducing longevity. If you can't build a motor when the first one goes it's probably best not to go past that, it is really fun when you do though...
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