1. Begin by Disconnecting the Ground Cable on your battery, its also easier if you remover the battery completely 2. The SLP instructions dont say this but removing the drivers side Coil Cover Gives you more clearance to do things 3. Remove the Front and Rear Master Cylinder Nuts, The top bolt is a Stud, so a simple open end wrench will do, the bottom nut is more difficult because it has a hex on the back side, I used a Long extension from the front while a friend used a wrench to hold the back Screw from turning, There is also a sensor that must be disconnected from the MC 4. Remove both brake lines from the bottom of the Mater Cylinder, Be cautious as brake fluid will begin to leak, remove the master cylinder and lay it on the ground upside down to prevent fluid from leaking out 5. Next Remove the Rear Brake line from the Proportioning valve, In the picture it is the smaller one closest to the firewall 6. Next Assemble the Line Lock According to this picture using Teflon Sealing tape 7. Next is the difficult Part, Thread the line lock into the Proportioning Valve and and measure where to drill the holes for the Bolts that will hold the solenoid to the Fenderwell, sometimes the line might not line up with the PV so I loosened the bolt holding the PV so I could have some play to line up the PV with the LL. After you Make your marks, Remove your Drivers side Wheel and drill the holes with a 1/4 inch drill bit. 8. Once your Holes are drilled , Mount the LL and line up the New brake line so that it goes where the original line into the MC did. 9. Next Grab the Fused side of the Harness for the LL, remove this bolt on the fuse box and place the ring terminal onto the stud, then retighten up the bolt, attach the other end of the lead to one of the Prongs on the Solenoid 10. Heres a tricky Part, Make a cut into the rubber grommet that allows the wiring harness to pass through the firewall into the drivers compartment, I stuck a long extension through this cut, taped the activation switch wire to it and pulled it back out 11. Once the Wire is pulled, Plug it into the second prong on the actual Line Lock. Here you can see them both plugged in 12. Next Drill A 3/8 Hole where you would like the activation switch to go, I did mine on the shift bezel next to the lighter port, run the other wire to a ground under the dash (anywhere metal really) 13. Next Re-attach the Brake Lines to the Master Cylinder , Once their both attached, slide the MC back into Place and Tighten it 14. Now Bleed the Brakes, and the Master Cylinder, The master cylinder is extremely important to bleed and is bled the same way the brakes are using the bleeder valves on its sides 15. Once everything is Bled, Put the coil cover back on, The battery back in and hook up the positive then the negative cables. 16. Key the car on, flip the switch, if everything works you should hear a small click from the Line Locks Solenoid 17. Take the car out, make sure the brakes work correctly, the give the Line Lock a Trial by Fire :burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout: Your Done!