How to make your own clutch freeplay kit

lowflyn

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After attempting to adjust my clutch...again, I finally started looking into the freeplay kit offered by a company in the Mustang community. Being an instant gratification and cheap person I decided the price of said product was quite high for what you were getting and I wanted it done this weekend.

So...after some research and time spent at the local Lowe's store I came up with a much cheaper alternative that works just as well.


Some background to this problem.

When you install an aftermarket clutch setup the factory adjustment mechanism simply doesn't do the trick any longer. The easy fix to this problem is going with an aftermarket firewall adjuster and quadrant. The problem I ran into and several other people have run into is the throw out bearing simply will not stay off the pressure plate when you have the clutch comfortably adjusted.

There are a few ways to fix this issue, the best way to fix the problem is to run a different clutch fork to change the geometry of the entire system. Being the cheap person I am I looked into other options and the freeplay kit peaked my interest.

What you'll need:
These are Lowe's part numbers, you can probably find similar products at any home improvement store.

-246632 PB Spring Comp #47 $3.49
(the spring shown and the package for the spring)
DSC01422.jpg

-115970 1/2-3/4" PVC Male-Female adapter $0.72
(the small round pieces at the bottom of this picture)
034481182627


The spring only comes as a set of two, so realistically for another 72 cents you will have two complete kits.

How to assemble:

Pull the clutch dust shield off the transmission and detach the clutch cable from the clutch fork.

Slide the adapter piece over the end of the clutch cable with the smaller hole towards the back of the car (this is what the spring will sit on).

You will need to modify the spring slightly to make it fit over the clutch cable. I used a pair of needle nose pliers and pried each end of the spring outward slightly a few times to get the proper clearance. Once you have enough clearance slide the spring over the end of the clutch cable and set it against the adapter piece.

Now comes the tricky part. While holding the spring away from the end slide the clutch cable back into the clutch fork and let the spring rest against the clutch fork.

Your setup should now look like this:
DSC01415.jpg


Now crank the vehicle and with it idling in neutral with the clutch released climb back under the vehicle and check for the throw out bearing spinning against the pressure plate. Using your firewall adjuster get the bearing to sit slightly off the pressure plate, the spring will allow you to adjust it slightly closer without the bearing sitting against the pressure plate.

Once you have it adjusted put the dust shield back over the transmission and set the car back on the ground and enjoy your newly adjusted clutch.


I know there are several pictures missing in this setup and if you want any specific pictures please let me know, probably going to go disassemble this setup and attempt to take step by step pictures now, just wanted to check for it actually working first.
 

Terminator-Fox

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Good write-up. I'm assuming the plastic piece you found in the "plumbing" section, now what section of the store did you find the spring? Thanks
 
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Dana

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lowflyn:

This is a good effort on your part, but 2 problems exist.
1) Some PVC can and will get soft (depends on its chemical make up) at normal engine operating temps. Review the Apten cooling mod fiasco when they used PVC for a T in the cooling system. Hopefully it won't melt, but softening will be just as bad in this case.
If this happens, the spring will cease to funtion because:
2) the spring is too short. It should be about 4 inches (not the 3 inches you have) to be effective for the entire range of adjustment that exists on the clutch cable.
With the shorter spring you have in use now, it may be ok for a while, (assuming the PVC don't get soft and distort) but once you move the fork further back, the spring's shorter length will not be sufficient to push on the fork. As the clutch wears, the fork must move rearward to maintain the freeplay clearance.

Just so you know, the freeplay kit sold by Lethal and D'Agostino uses a metal base and the correct length and diameter (no bending needed) spring, plus it has the correct pressure to assist the pedal/TOB return without adding significantly to the clutch pedal effort.

Again, good effort on your part and please keep an eye on the plastic.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me and I will try to help.

Dan
 

lowflyn

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Completely forgot about this. I'll get under the car this weekend and pull the dust shield off to take a look. Haven't so much as thought about this piece since installing.

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lowflyn

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3477f83a3c5c3b5c0eded09b799dc6af.jpg


You were correct. Finally remembered to take a look. Haven't taken the cover off in 6 years so no telling how long it held up.

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Bdubbs

u even lift bro?
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I'm happy with the LDC freeplay mod. I even have the steeda clutch pedal stop.
 

SpetsACDC

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You mean it never kept the T/O bearing off the pressure plate, or the PVC broke after a while? I was planning on buying the official kit.

Thanks!
 

lowflyn

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You mean it never kept the T/O bearing off the pressure plate, or the PVC broke after a while? I was planning on buying the official kit.

Thanks!
My cheap setup broke. The real kits still do the job

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stang910

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Thanks for this write up. I'm considering doing this mod to help with clutch chirping (https://www.svtperformance.com/foru...ing-chirps-on-pressure-plate-fingers.1130579/). Do you think it will help?

The best way to fix your tob problems is to use a frpp TOB which is a constant velocity design. Set it up with a little preload and you'll never have chirping and the clutch disengagement will feel right. The TOB that comes in aftermarket clutch kits are wrong for the application IMO. Although they work they will chirp and won't disengage the clutch until the end of pedal travel. Another thing it will solve is TOB misalignment which will cause a hard pedal.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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since this is being bumped do NOT order from D'Agostino, their site takes orders and your money but many problems with no product and no response so someone else took it over
 

SpetsACDC

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Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, I used the T/O bearing from my aftermarket kit. That was 8 years ago and it appears to still work. The reason I installed the MaxMotorsports kit was because the teeth on the stock adjuster were worn. I didn't have the T/O bearing noise on the pressure plate fingers with the stock system. So, I'm hoping I can install this spring to give me a gap and stop the noise.

Thanks for the tip about D'Agostino...that's the only place I found that is still selling the kit. Do you have a link to a different site? Thanks!
 

speedoflife

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If you want to fix your clutch pedal height and throw, this guide right here is what you need. It should be stickied in my opinion:
https://www.svtperformance.com/foru...firmer-shifts-and-performance-driving.313294/

I followed the instructions and made a post on the very last page of that thread. I've had that setup running for about 5,000 miles and have had no issues so far.

Seriously though, check that link out. I don't know how that thread was let die. It made my car SO MUCH more pleasant and reasonable to drive.
 

speedoflife

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I can't figure out how to edit my post on my phone so:

Also, I used two COPPER C x FPT adapters in place of the PVC used here for my free play kit. Just google the words "copper c x fpt" and you'll see how the spring just slides over the end of the adapters. It also adds length to the free play unit, which makes that shorter spring possible to use.

In addition, I believe that someone has mentioned it but a FRPP TOB installed and adjusted such that it never stops spinning is, I believe, the right answer. Here is a copy/paste my from my post in that thread.
"I personally think that the ultimate TOB life is given by keeping it TOTALLY off the fingers. The next best is to have slight constant pressure. The worst is somewhere in between which causes friction on the lip of the TOB as it constantly comes on and off the fingers which heats it and boom."
I have come to believe over time that the constant engagement and disengagement between the PP fingers and the TOB is what heats and kills them. The clutch and flywheel surface (or brake pad and rotor surfaces) are meant to fully engage and disengage repeatedly. That's why they have a high friction, wearable compound as part of their construction. PP fingers = metal. TOB lip (the portion that contacts the fingers) = metal. These two surfaces are fine if there is static friction between them. When that friction turns kinetic during the brief moments of engagement and disengagement, it heats the TOB drastically and I think these heat cycles are what kills them.
I've had the PP fingers have slight constant pressure (even at full clutch engagement) for about 5k miles and [knock on wood] have had no noises or problems. The trick is to not mutilate the TOB with too much pressure while keeping the two surfaces in contact with each other.

In theory.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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thanks for the update with the copper parts, I was wanting to do this but didnt wanna use the PVC.
 

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