Well, you would think after building mustangs for the last 16 years, I would know how to recognize what valve covers will work and which ones wont. This is one of those I bought the wrong valve covers. I had these on my 408 Lightning but I forgot there was a 1" spacer. A spacer would have been fine but I have a stock hood, and did not want to spend 56.00 for a spacer. The valve covers that were on it, were 93 cobra. The motor is a rebuilt 93 cobra 302 "no difference" other then the heads. So This is what I start with.
I then began the dissemble process. I started by disconnecting the negative cable on the battery. I then took my rubber distributor cover off.
I unsnapped the distributor cap so that I could get to one of my bolts on the intake. I had to go a step further, but depending on your intake you may or may not need this step. I had to take the two bolts out of the upper part of the distributor, this is the piece that the cap snaps too. It is a philips head screws.
Next disconnect your plug on your maf, and take of the air tube and maf. It was just a simple maf sensor disconnect and 1 clamp on my CAI holding it to me throttle body. Remove and put to the side.
After the removal of the CAI I was able to access, the Throttle body, and all of the sensors that are connected. Lets start by disconnecting the TPS sensor. I suggest taking blue tap and writing on it then wrapping each plug with it. If you are not a 5.0 newb then just disconnect. Disconnect the Idle Air control sensor, which is located on the front of the throttle body. See pic
Next you will need to unplug you EGR, We will be deleting this later. See pic
Once all of this is out of the way You need to disconnect the throttle linkage. it is located under the throttle body. Just reach your hand underneath the throttle body and unsnap it. If it seems stuck use a flat screw driver, but be careful and dont break anything. See pic of throttle linkage
There are two bolts that hold the throttle cable and bracket onto the throttle body spacer. Mine were two different sizes, so I cant help you with the correct size. Undo these and get the throttle cable out of the way. You can see the two bolts in above pic. If your car still has the stock hoses to the spacer still hooked up remove these and the clamps. Remove the clamps off the lines, and put them away from the motor. I ruined a motor because of one accidently getting in the intake.
Once you have the throttle cable out of the way, Its time to move onto Intake. Now my car had ARP bolts in it. It took a 5/16 12 point 1/4 inch drive socket. on the center bolts and a 3/8ths wrench on the nuts Depending on your intake the bolts will be in various places. Stock intakes 2 up front two in the back, and two behind the 5.0 ho plate. Its the same way with the TFS and Cobra intake. The Edlebrock intake doesnt have the bolts in the center. remove the bolts and put them to the side.
Once this is done, you have several vacuum lines hooked to the intake. depending on the intake it will be different on how many you have. My car had a bunch of stuff blocked off. I counted 4 lines on the intake. remove these by pulling them off.
Now its time to remove the intake. The A/c line if you have a/c will be in the way. Just be aware of it when you start up with your intake. Sit the intake to the side.
Next remove the gasket on your lower intake. be sure not to get any into the lower intake holes. I used a flat razor blade scrapper.
Next take a mircro fiber towel or something small and cover the lower intake holes. See pic. This keeps stuff from getting into the motor.
Now its onto the valve covers. my car had the t bolts which are super easy to take off. but more then likely you have 6 bolts holding on you valve covers. Remove these and set them aside. see pics
Remove the valve covers and more then likely your car will have paper gaskets so you will have some cleaning to do on the heads. a wire brush works well, or a flat screw driver. Clean it up good.
Reinstallation:
I personally like the rubber/metal reusable gaskets. They are a tad more expensive, but no silicone is needed. I recommend spending the extra money. I am not going to go into any detail on how to use paper gaskets, because I have not had good luck with them.
with your gasket and new valve cover in hand. place two of the bolts in the center holes to get your self lined up. push the bolt threw the new valve cover and gasket. I start with the top center hole. line it up and start it. Then move to the bottom start it as well. The progress to the other 4 bolts, just make sure you can see you gasket before starting the bolts or it will leak oil.
After both sides are done its time to reassemble. This is where it gets tricky. Remember these valve covers are non efi so your oil holes are in different spots and will cause major issues.
Lets start with taking the throttle bracket off. Now in order to run non efi valve covers half of the throttle bracket has too go. For me it didnt matter, my cruise control didnt work, so I just deleted the cruise cable.
As you can see in this pic I cut just enough of including a big chunk of the bottom to leave the 1 bolt hole need to hold the cable to the bracket.
Now on to deleting the driver side oil hole. I got this at Oriley for under 5 bucks. Its a gromet with a bolt that stretches the gromet to keep oil from escaping.
The passenger back will need a gromet that reduces at the top and a pcv valve that fits 3/8ths because that is what your throttle body breather tube is. see pic
once you have all of that bought and installed if you choose to delete your egr valve this step is for you. if not skip over this step.
With the intake off, take off the two nuts that hold the egr valve on. Mine was shot so it made no difference. I took a pair of vice grips and spun the studs holding it in out. I took a piece of paper and made a templet of the egr port. I then took a thin piece of alluminum and cut it too fit. I took red permetex silicone and glued the templet to over the holes. I let it sit over night with a brick on it. see pic. Its not pretty but it works.
If you delete the EGR I strongly suggest you buy this, my car suffered from this, and I was able to adjust this part and make it idle perfect.
Ford Mustang IAC adjustable idle spacer kit 5.0 4.6
Intake reinstall:
Watch all of your pvc lines and your throttle cable line as well as your ac line if you have it. hook up all of you pvc lines and the fuel pressure regulator. place intake on the studs. Bolt it back down. Now comes the fun part. If you got the throttle cable bracket cut off correctly this will be a breeze. Reinstall you small screw that holds the cable to the bracket, the reinstall you bracket to your throttle body spacer. Check and make sure your throttle body blade opens and close all the way. If it does then hook up your pcv valve to the throttle body with a 3/8th piece of rubber hose. Then hook you EGR if it was not deleted. Hook up your TPS sensor, and you IAC. Reinstall your CAI or air intake hook back up the maf and you are in business.
If you EGR deleted, and installed the IAC Spacer. Read the instructions, but you will just need to play with the in and out of the allen head screws. For my car it was out. I had it almost all the way in. Now its almost all the way out. Just play around with it until you get your idle where you want it. My car idles at 800 rpm. I hope this helps someone. I had a lot of trial and error with my car. finished product looks like this.
I then began the dissemble process. I started by disconnecting the negative cable on the battery. I then took my rubber distributor cover off.
I unsnapped the distributor cap so that I could get to one of my bolts on the intake. I had to go a step further, but depending on your intake you may or may not need this step. I had to take the two bolts out of the upper part of the distributor, this is the piece that the cap snaps too. It is a philips head screws.
Next disconnect your plug on your maf, and take of the air tube and maf. It was just a simple maf sensor disconnect and 1 clamp on my CAI holding it to me throttle body. Remove and put to the side.
After the removal of the CAI I was able to access, the Throttle body, and all of the sensors that are connected. Lets start by disconnecting the TPS sensor. I suggest taking blue tap and writing on it then wrapping each plug with it. If you are not a 5.0 newb then just disconnect. Disconnect the Idle Air control sensor, which is located on the front of the throttle body. See pic
Next you will need to unplug you EGR, We will be deleting this later. See pic
Once all of this is out of the way You need to disconnect the throttle linkage. it is located under the throttle body. Just reach your hand underneath the throttle body and unsnap it. If it seems stuck use a flat screw driver, but be careful and dont break anything. See pic of throttle linkage
There are two bolts that hold the throttle cable and bracket onto the throttle body spacer. Mine were two different sizes, so I cant help you with the correct size. Undo these and get the throttle cable out of the way. You can see the two bolts in above pic. If your car still has the stock hoses to the spacer still hooked up remove these and the clamps. Remove the clamps off the lines, and put them away from the motor. I ruined a motor because of one accidently getting in the intake.
Once you have the throttle cable out of the way, Its time to move onto Intake. Now my car had ARP bolts in it. It took a 5/16 12 point 1/4 inch drive socket. on the center bolts and a 3/8ths wrench on the nuts Depending on your intake the bolts will be in various places. Stock intakes 2 up front two in the back, and two behind the 5.0 ho plate. Its the same way with the TFS and Cobra intake. The Edlebrock intake doesnt have the bolts in the center. remove the bolts and put them to the side.
Once this is done, you have several vacuum lines hooked to the intake. depending on the intake it will be different on how many you have. My car had a bunch of stuff blocked off. I counted 4 lines on the intake. remove these by pulling them off.
Now its time to remove the intake. The A/c line if you have a/c will be in the way. Just be aware of it when you start up with your intake. Sit the intake to the side.
Next remove the gasket on your lower intake. be sure not to get any into the lower intake holes. I used a flat razor blade scrapper.
Next take a mircro fiber towel or something small and cover the lower intake holes. See pic. This keeps stuff from getting into the motor.
Now its onto the valve covers. my car had the t bolts which are super easy to take off. but more then likely you have 6 bolts holding on you valve covers. Remove these and set them aside. see pics
Remove the valve covers and more then likely your car will have paper gaskets so you will have some cleaning to do on the heads. a wire brush works well, or a flat screw driver. Clean it up good.
Reinstallation:
I personally like the rubber/metal reusable gaskets. They are a tad more expensive, but no silicone is needed. I recommend spending the extra money. I am not going to go into any detail on how to use paper gaskets, because I have not had good luck with them.
with your gasket and new valve cover in hand. place two of the bolts in the center holes to get your self lined up. push the bolt threw the new valve cover and gasket. I start with the top center hole. line it up and start it. Then move to the bottom start it as well. The progress to the other 4 bolts, just make sure you can see you gasket before starting the bolts or it will leak oil.
After both sides are done its time to reassemble. This is where it gets tricky. Remember these valve covers are non efi so your oil holes are in different spots and will cause major issues.
Lets start with taking the throttle bracket off. Now in order to run non efi valve covers half of the throttle bracket has too go. For me it didnt matter, my cruise control didnt work, so I just deleted the cruise cable.
As you can see in this pic I cut just enough of including a big chunk of the bottom to leave the 1 bolt hole need to hold the cable to the bracket.
Now on to deleting the driver side oil hole. I got this at Oriley for under 5 bucks. Its a gromet with a bolt that stretches the gromet to keep oil from escaping.
The passenger back will need a gromet that reduces at the top and a pcv valve that fits 3/8ths because that is what your throttle body breather tube is. see pic
once you have all of that bought and installed if you choose to delete your egr valve this step is for you. if not skip over this step.
With the intake off, take off the two nuts that hold the egr valve on. Mine was shot so it made no difference. I took a pair of vice grips and spun the studs holding it in out. I took a piece of paper and made a templet of the egr port. I then took a thin piece of alluminum and cut it too fit. I took red permetex silicone and glued the templet to over the holes. I let it sit over night with a brick on it. see pic. Its not pretty but it works.
If you delete the EGR I strongly suggest you buy this, my car suffered from this, and I was able to adjust this part and make it idle perfect.
Ford Mustang IAC adjustable idle spacer kit 5.0 4.6
Intake reinstall:
Watch all of your pvc lines and your throttle cable line as well as your ac line if you have it. hook up all of you pvc lines and the fuel pressure regulator. place intake on the studs. Bolt it back down. Now comes the fun part. If you got the throttle cable bracket cut off correctly this will be a breeze. Reinstall you small screw that holds the cable to the bracket, the reinstall you bracket to your throttle body spacer. Check and make sure your throttle body blade opens and close all the way. If it does then hook up your pcv valve to the throttle body with a 3/8th piece of rubber hose. Then hook you EGR if it was not deleted. Hook up your TPS sensor, and you IAC. Reinstall your CAI or air intake hook back up the maf and you are in business.
If you EGR deleted, and installed the IAC Spacer. Read the instructions, but you will just need to play with the in and out of the allen head screws. For my car it was out. I had it almost all the way in. Now its almost all the way out. Just play around with it until you get your idle where you want it. My car idles at 800 rpm. I hope this helps someone. I had a lot of trial and error with my car. finished product looks like this.
