Intake finally arrived today, plan is to get a couple of dyno pulls(already tuned), install the new intake, adjust tune to suit, take a couple of pulls once dialed in. Hopefully this thing lives up to the hype.
Installing a 2018 intake onto my procharged 2014
- Thread starter Bill@HPTuners
- Start date
i'm interested to see the results.
Is it a brand new one or did you buy it ported?
What is the difference between a 11-14 intake and the 2018, is it more like the gt350 intake or something?
In for results.
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Bill is this your daily?
Believe I heard it has bigger ports, shorter runners and plenum holds about 1 liter more air. Has IMRC though, so you have to lock out for 11-14, might cost you a bit of torque having them open at all times.
Brand new, not ported.
As stated, slightly larger volume, I think its like 12.5L vs 11.2 or something for the 11-14, IMRC, & slightly different throttle angle
Trying to work with www.thetuningschool.com to make a tech video on it, that's currently the plan but several things need to fall into place for that to happen.
eh, I work from home so I don't have a commute, I try to take it out every chance I get but with LT's/no cats the car is pretty loud and gets alot of unwanted attention lol, been pulled over 2x in 6 months of ownership vs 0 in 11 years in my minivan...
I will say this, the injector spacers are securely placed in this thing, without breaking something I think they only way to take these out might be to remove the entire intake, flip it over and use a small socket, extension & hammer. The spacers on my stock intake came out very easily with needlenose pliers. These, not so much.
definitely interested in s197 results ... i am contemplating this on my 14 fbo e85 v3 coyote
Just saw a video on FB from PBD in which they gained roughly 50HP on a Vortech V3 S550 with this manifold and they did lockout the IMRC's and torque stayed basically the same as stock, I believe they said it even dropped 2 PSI on the same size pulley because of how much more efficient the intake was.
these bitches are trying to make me spend money on a new intake.
Always, don't you know, it never ends....
yeah , same blower as i have but they run 3.48 pulley vs my 3.6 and that is on an s550 vs my s197 ..... so my guess is on my car it would land 35-40 whp maybe extra .... for 300 bucks even 30 whp is great bang for the buck
hahahaha
ok so here we go pictures can be found here https://photos.app.goo.gl/0tKNfAMvTHLmJZH62
I will try to make a formal how do in word with the pictures integrated in or something but basically this is how it went
I prepped the 2018 intake by removing all the crap on the back of it for IMRC
If you don't already know 11-14's do not have IMRC so this stuff MUST be removed for our cars
You will need c clip pliers to remove a couple of c clips in the back as well as a T25 torx bit to remove the 8 screws
Using (1) 11" ziptie I locked the passenger side IMRC open
Using (1) 8" ziptie I locked the drivers side IMRC open
Using (1) 5/16 rubber cap cap the vacuum hole at the back of the intake
Using (1) 5/16 rubber cap cap the vacuum hole at the front of the intake
I have a custom PCV setup so I simply reused the PCV cap from the procharger setup and used the supplied worm clamp
Next you will need to remove your stock intake & fuel rails
If you haven't done so already remove your strut tower brace(if so equipped) and your engine cover
To do this unclip the fuel pump module in your trunk near your spare tire
Go into the vehicle and attempt to start it, mine typically doesn't start, yours might start and then die, then try starting again, this will relieve the majority of fuel pressure in the rails
Undo the intake at the TB and move to the side
Unplug the EVAP connector, Throttle body connector and the fuel rail(make sure to put a rag under the fuel rail connection to catch excess fuel)
Remove the (4) 10mm nuts holding down the vacuum line to the brake canister and unplug this line near the Throttle body, you will need some needle nose pliers for this more than likely I used some 90* needle nose and they work flawlessly.
Remove the passenger & driver side heater hose standoffs and set to the side they will be reused
Remove the Injector rail insulators and set to the side they will be reused
Remove the (4) 8?mm bolts holding the injector rails down
Remove the injector rails w/injectors and put to the side, be careful as there will still be quite a bit of fuel in the rail that can come out of the feed portion if you hold it wrong during removal
Remove the (6) 8?mm bolts holding the intake down, these bolts are permanently connected to the intake via sleeves so don't worry about them dropping anywhere.
Remove the EVAP module by removing the (2) 10?mm bolts and the factory hose and set to the side
Start removing the intake manifold at this point, you will only be able to move it a few inches up and forward, you will need good lighting and an extra set of hands as there are (4) connections at the back that will need to be removed using a panel clip removal tool
Once removed the intake should come out fairly easily
Remove the Throttle Body from the intake by removing the (4) 8?mm bolts, you will reuse these bolts so keep them with the Throttle Body
Put the intake to the side just in case something goes wrong with your installation
Put the Throttle Body onto the 2018 intake manifold, WARNING! I had to flip mine 180* as the wiring would not reach, though I've seen others where it has reached so test fit the wiring in particular first if you plan to leave it in the stock position.
Next you will need to test fit the intake
Using an extra set of hands lower the intake into place
WARNING!!! check the clearance on the drivers side farthest front bolt, there is a coolant housing bolt that interfered with my installation and I had to dremel down my brand new intake several MM to get it to fit, you can see the issue and the clearancing in the pictures.
I only found I had to clearance it once I started tightening down the six bolts so be very careful at that drivers front bolt
Once clearanced and you've properly torqued down the intake using the specs in the pictures you can start buttoning things up
Connect the Throttle Body connector
Connect/Tighten the intake hose to the Throttle Body
Connect the Vacuum hose to the larger port on the Throttle Body(next to the PCV port)
Connect the EVAP connector to the module, position your module how you'd like and using the 3/8" hose and (2) smaller worm clamps connect the EVAP to the smaller port on the intake next to the Vacuum hose you connected in the previous step, reconnect the stock line to the EVAP module and the C Clip to hold it in place.
Reinstall the injector rails and injectors, make sure to lube the orings with a fingertip of fresh oil
Tighten down their 4 bolts
Reinstall the heater hose standoffs and vacuum hose hardline using the 4 nuts you removed earlier.
Reconnect the fuel pump module in the trunk
Next comes the tuning part
If you have a base tune to throw in do it now, obviously I use HP Tuners and do my own tuning
However once I connected the fuel pump module I ran a test, I primed the system 2x and started the car, it started, ran & idled at lambda 1.0 without issue, I have a good strong feeling the car would probably run just fine without any further modifications IMHO.
From there I simply changed the intake manifold volume from the stock value of 11.1L to the 12.5L listed in every 2018 Mustang file and flashed that in.
Took the car out for a drive, felt no noticeable loss of low end tq and SOTP felt like it pulled a little better up top, 60hp SOTP feel eh, who knows. Time will tell as theres a dyno day at the place where I dynoed the car last when I made 578/465 to the wheels so it should be a very good comparison, not the same day but at least the same dyno.
I was really hoping to work something out with the guys from the tuning school but we had conflicting schedules and I had the day off today so rather than twiddling my thumbs I figured I just do the install & write up myself.
I believe that's it but if I left anything out please let me know.
I will try to make a formal how do in word with the pictures integrated in or something but basically this is how it went
I prepped the 2018 intake by removing all the crap on the back of it for IMRC
If you don't already know 11-14's do not have IMRC so this stuff MUST be removed for our cars
You will need c clip pliers to remove a couple of c clips in the back as well as a T25 torx bit to remove the 8 screws
Using (1) 11" ziptie I locked the passenger side IMRC open
Using (1) 8" ziptie I locked the drivers side IMRC open
Using (1) 5/16 rubber cap cap the vacuum hole at the back of the intake
Using (1) 5/16 rubber cap cap the vacuum hole at the front of the intake
I have a custom PCV setup so I simply reused the PCV cap from the procharger setup and used the supplied worm clamp
Next you will need to remove your stock intake & fuel rails
If you haven't done so already remove your strut tower brace(if so equipped) and your engine cover
To do this unclip the fuel pump module in your trunk near your spare tire
Go into the vehicle and attempt to start it, mine typically doesn't start, yours might start and then die, then try starting again, this will relieve the majority of fuel pressure in the rails
Undo the intake at the TB and move to the side
Unplug the EVAP connector, Throttle body connector and the fuel rail(make sure to put a rag under the fuel rail connection to catch excess fuel)
Remove the (4) 10mm nuts holding down the vacuum line to the brake canister and unplug this line near the Throttle body, you will need some needle nose pliers for this more than likely I used some 90* needle nose and they work flawlessly.
Remove the passenger & driver side heater hose standoffs and set to the side they will be reused
Remove the Injector rail insulators and set to the side they will be reused
Remove the (4) 8?mm bolts holding the injector rails down
Remove the injector rails w/injectors and put to the side, be careful as there will still be quite a bit of fuel in the rail that can come out of the feed portion if you hold it wrong during removal
Remove the (6) 8?mm bolts holding the intake down, these bolts are permanently connected to the intake via sleeves so don't worry about them dropping anywhere.
Remove the EVAP module by removing the (2) 10?mm bolts and the factory hose and set to the side
Start removing the intake manifold at this point, you will only be able to move it a few inches up and forward, you will need good lighting and an extra set of hands as there are (4) connections at the back that will need to be removed using a panel clip removal tool
Once removed the intake should come out fairly easily
Remove the Throttle Body from the intake by removing the (4) 8?mm bolts, you will reuse these bolts so keep them with the Throttle Body
Put the intake to the side just in case something goes wrong with your installation
Put the Throttle Body onto the 2018 intake manifold, WARNING! I had to flip mine 180* as the wiring would not reach, though I've seen others where it has reached so test fit the wiring in particular first if you plan to leave it in the stock position.
Next you will need to test fit the intake
Using an extra set of hands lower the intake into place
WARNING!!! check the clearance on the drivers side farthest front bolt, there is a coolant housing bolt that interfered with my installation and I had to dremel down my brand new intake several MM to get it to fit, you can see the issue and the clearancing in the pictures.
I only found I had to clearance it once I started tightening down the six bolts so be very careful at that drivers front bolt
Once clearanced and you've properly torqued down the intake using the specs in the pictures you can start buttoning things up
Connect the Throttle Body connector
Connect/Tighten the intake hose to the Throttle Body
Connect the Vacuum hose to the larger port on the Throttle Body(next to the PCV port)
Connect the EVAP connector to the module, position your module how you'd like and using the 3/8" hose and (2) smaller worm clamps connect the EVAP to the smaller port on the intake next to the Vacuum hose you connected in the previous step, reconnect the stock line to the EVAP module and the C Clip to hold it in place.
Reinstall the injector rails and injectors, make sure to lube the orings with a fingertip of fresh oil
Tighten down their 4 bolts
Reinstall the heater hose standoffs and vacuum hose hardline using the 4 nuts you removed earlier.
Reconnect the fuel pump module in the trunk
Next comes the tuning part
If you have a base tune to throw in do it now, obviously I use HP Tuners and do my own tuning
However once I connected the fuel pump module I ran a test, I primed the system 2x and started the car, it started, ran & idled at lambda 1.0 without issue, I have a good strong feeling the car would probably run just fine without any further modifications IMHO.
From there I simply changed the intake manifold volume from the stock value of 11.1L to the 12.5L listed in every 2018 Mustang file and flashed that in.
Took the car out for a drive, felt no noticeable loss of low end tq and SOTP felt like it pulled a little better up top, 60hp SOTP feel eh, who knows. Time will tell as theres a dyno day at the place where I dynoed the car last when I made 578/465 to the wheels so it should be a very good comparison, not the same day but at least the same dyno.
I was really hoping to work something out with the guys from the tuning school but we had conflicting schedules and I had the day off today so rather than twiddling my thumbs I figured I just do the install & write up myself.
I believe that's it but if I left anything out please let me know.
Great info ! Does the difference in angle on tb affect anything on the fitment dept ?
Thanks for the write up
Thanks for the write up
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