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Its been awhile but here are my most recent mods

Discussion in 'Terminator Talk' started by SVT_Troy, Jul 10, 2017.

  1. SVT_Troy

    SVT_Troy Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Its been awhile and i have not stopped modding my cobra, I just haven't kept up with posting. Ive been lurking for the past 2 years or so.....

    Anyway on to the pics

    Added a Stifflers solid trans mount to clean up some sloppy shifting. I think it make a difference and my shifts felt alot more solid after installing. I didnt notice much of a change in NVH

    35716321321_efe1c4a83f_b.jpg

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    Random pictures from last year in the driveway

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    I bought one of racebronco's hoods.... its still sitting upstairs!

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    Installed a killer chiller.... will probably remove soon...

    35038466123_ccd5921276_b.jpg

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    I bought a 1" ball valve to switch between killer chiller and Heat exchanger. At no time will it go through the H/E and K/C at the same time. A 3/4" ball valve ball portion necks down alot so i went with a 1" and used 3/4" fittings and lines. I also made a bracket to mount it where and how I wanted it.

    **See post 67 for updated ball valve fitting setup**

    35848065045_f57bf7366e_b.jpg

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    All installed with lines routed.

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    It gets the fluid nice and cold as advertised

    35460053020_9acfa8ff22_b.jpg

    I went to the track a few times last year breaking a total of two half shafts and busting up my diff. Here is a pic from november 2016. On this pass I was testing out a newly installed WOT box and broke my last half shaft and diff. I was on drag radials and was supposed to be slipping the clutch at 3200rpm. I ended up dumping it...

    35466496630_466ca07976_b.jpg

    You can vaguely see the cracks in the spider gears.

    35466486900_a916a2520f_k.jpg

    Ok so this lead to my car sitting over winter waiting on G-force to release their new lifetime warranty axles. I bought a pair soon as they became avaiable.

    35716322071_5ba6359faf_b.jpg

    Man thats a tight fit.... Gforce says thats ok.... i have a few miles on them and so far so good.

    35460054920_902821f402_b.jpg CC311E4E-3807-4D79-85F5-3F6D17D8DD18_zpshfwsgid1 by Troy, on Flickr

    A couple of guys on modular fords (Ed) also talked me into getting the lifetime warranty wavetrac diff.... along with Mark Williams differential steel main caps, solid pinion spacer and ARP studs! I replaced all the bearings and races in the diff as well.


    35460052360_99ebcaba81_b.jpg

    You have to mill the MW caps in order to get them to fit. They make them slightly larger since they know every ford housing will be different. I did not take a pic of this process unfortunately. It is very easy to do if you have access to a mill, just make sure you shave off less rather than more. Another option is to send your diff housing into MW and pay them to do it for you.

    If you want to use ARP studs over the supplied bolts you will have two options since the nuts and washers do not fit into the MW cap holes. You either mill the ends of the caps off or put the washers and nuts on a lathe to reduce their OD. Here is a pic showing how I set it up to put on a lathe. Basically what your looking at is a ARP 12 point nut, 2 washers and another ARP nut tightened on the stud in order to put on the lathe and reduce the OD to fit inside the MW cap hole. I do not remember the OD measurement I reduced them to but just measure the ID of the MW cap hole and subtract a small amount.

    Parts I used:

    • Mark Williams 8.8" Ford Steel Main Cap: Part#: 59300
    • ARP 9" Carrier Bearing Stud Kit UHL: 3.250": Part#: 250-3004
    • ARP 12-Point Nuts 1/2"-20: Part#: 300-8324
    • Solid Pinion Spacer: purchased from Ratechmfg.com part #4105

    35679004752_76005aec78_b.jpg

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    All done and sealed off with another lube locker gasket. So far It isn't leaking a drop!

    35679015842_5a5621af35_b.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2018
  2. SVT_Troy

    SVT_Troy Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Well just found out photobucket now sucks... guess I have to find a new site to use.... this sucks

    While I was working on the rear I decided to try viking Da shocks. No big deal on the install so no pics. Just make sure to lube the bushing up with a good non water soluble lube. I used product called "Green Grease." google it!

    35716322311_c99fc79a56_b.jpg

    I also decided to do a trunk mounted battery setup. While running wire I discovered that my Mechman alternator mount had cracked and twisted. This explained my recent belt damage...

    35038474103_280624d5c5_b.jpg

    Mechman is standup in my book. They have since replaced the old case with a solid billet piece which looks amazing. They also updated the internal components according to the tech I talked to. They charged me $125 for recasing new updated internals. They also sent me a 3 wire plug (replacing the factory 2 wire). the third wire is to be connected to a 12v switched source if you are experiencing a battery light. So far I have not so i did not install it. Basically i paid $125 for a new alternator.


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    Here is my best time last year. I really need some seat time....

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    I didn't take a pic of the steps on building the bracket but basically I built a bracket to set up the battery cutoff lever to go through the trunk key hole. In order to setup the angle correctly the bracket needed to be taller. I also built a plate to add support to the roof of the trunk.

    35716321881_67619bc226_b.jpg

    In my opinion after I painted the new bracket and plate you can barely see it besides the ugly bolts i used.

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    I used a Taylor battery box and used a BLUE SEA 7149 200 AMP circuit breaker. I first picked on of the cheaper brands but after receiving it i knew i couldn't use it. It was way too flimsy and didn't look to be up to the task of carry amps. The Blue sea products are the most robust on the market that I have come across.

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    41981966454_5bb9dbf8f5_b.jpg IMG_8178

    27831140627_b3bbc9be9e_b.jpg IMG_8179

    41981965384_ec76becdbd_b.jpg IMG_8181

    42700397521_6ddda23510_b.jpg IMG_8183

    42700397151_eb55d3303e_b.jpg IMG_8184

    27831136867_93370f16f4_b.jpg IMG_8182

    A more detailed listing of my parts:

    • With it ran to the trunk I would recommend 1/0 welding cable both from ground and power. The positive cable needs to be fused.
      • I use cable made by these guys for both ground and power. Determine and get the appropriate length. It is better to get too much since you need to do the "big three" upgrade.
    I have a 1/0 short wire ran from the positive terminal to the "IN" on the breaker. A 1/0 short wire from the breaker "OUT" to the small 6 wire distro box on the back of my Taylor battery box. It is here where my car power is split off. The reason why I chose my specific distro block is it is inclosed in plastic so I can mount it where I have it and mainly it has three 1/0 - 2 AWG connections and three 4-8 AWG inputs.

    1 of 3 1/0 - 2AWG distro block connections: power from breaker
    2 of 3 1/0 - 2AWG distro block connections: Power to my cutoff switch
    3 of 3 1/0 - 2AWG distro block connections: 1/0 wire from Alternator
    1 of 3 4AWG distro block connections: Fuel pump power
    Cutoff switch other end goes to the engine bay fuse box
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2018
  3. whitedevil95

    whitedevil95 @jaypeesantizzi Established Member

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    I literally just had that same problem. I switched over to flickr
     
  4. 03cobra#694

    03cobra#694 Want to play a game? Staff Member Super Moderator

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    You can post them directly now.
     
  5. *Jay*

    *Jay* Tweeker by trade Established Member

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    You never did get a run with your KC installed did you, no love for your new halfshafts???
     
  6. Black Gold 380R

    Black Gold 380R Multiple SVT Collector Established Member

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    Thank God for that. Makes things much easier too. Photobucket can P!$S off now LMAO!!!

    Awesome set up OP!!!!
     
  7. 03cobra#694

    03cobra#694 Want to play a game? Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Yeah, I got the dear John email too Glenn. I need to get my stuff on my laptop I have there.
     
  8. SVT_Troy

    SVT_Troy Well-Known Member Established Member

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    The KC was installed but not properly serviced during that run last year. The pic i posted with the temp was taken from this year after she was up and running.

    I still have alot to post in this thread and for simplicity i will gloss over alot. I have no problem with sharing more details on something if there is an interest.
     
  9. whitedevil95

    whitedevil95 @jaypeesantizzi Established Member

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    Lots of good work there. Why you gonna remove the KC looks like its working...
     
  10. SVT_Troy

    SVT_Troy Well-Known Member Established Member

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    I am going to keep it this year and see how it does. Basically my IAT2's still get high. I want to try Justin Wheelers increased flow setup with it and see how it does. I really dont want to go with another trunk mount reservoir and dealing with routing the lines again.
     
  11. 2k2leenin

    2k2leenin Member Established Member

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    I don't post much... but... nice job of wrenchin'! Thanks for the details on the ARP studs- I'm in the process of building my case & planned on going this route.
     
  12. SVT_Troy

    SVT_Troy Well-Known Member Established Member

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    No problem, if you have questions just ask. Its not that hard, just measure three times before milling. If you go to much you can use peelable shims to get it in spec.
     
  13. whitedevil95

    whitedevil95 @jaypeesantizzi Established Member

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    What kind of IAT2s do you see?
     
  14. Stage 4.6

    Stage 4.6 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Nice MOD thread great info, was curious on what IATs your seeing with the killer chiller as well? I was considering going this route before attempting E85 conversion.
     
  15. SVT_Troy

    SVT_Troy Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Not a huge deal but I swapped from a returnless to return system finally. I plan on running E85 in 2018 so its past time. I know I could have run corn with my returnless but I was sick of messing around with it.

    I opted for a FORE system.

    A few pics of how I set it up.....

    36390473626_daee36b759_k.jpg

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    I went with the smaller F2I regulator and a Y block. If I have issues down the line I'll switch the regulator and eliminate the Y.

    36390473006_a21b4eec0e_k.jpg

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    Never twist wires, use wire ferrules....

    36267538702_92ac77abcf_z.jpg I

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    I absolutely hate how the rails are not perfectly parallel to each other causing the crossover to be crooked..... not sure what to do about that....

    37539743280_8403759550_k.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2017
    Terminator Dave and WildCobra like this.
  16. SVT_Troy

    SVT_Troy Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Justin Wheeler @ J2Fab has a new mod that increases the size of the I/C and includes larger 1" fittings for the H/E. He also uses a large trunk mounted tank, and a high flowing EMP pump. He claims that it totally solves the issues. Malcolm is using the setup on his new build so i'm kind of waiting to see how he likes it.

    As far as my temps. It gets the fluid ice cold 60-70° within 5 mins of running at idle depending on OAT. Its still cold after a cruising, i did not write down solid numbers but i do know the temps sits about 20° lower with the KC then without it while cruising. The temp still goes up as it normally does during a WOT pull which is what I am looking to reduce. With the KC after a WOT pull temps get up to around 130-140° then after some cruising it goes back down to about 110 or so depending on OAT. The thought is the small ID of the I/C just can't handle the volume needed to keep it from heating up and pulling timing. During the WOT pull is where I want the temps to be reduced. Either way I don't have the seat/run time to fully evaluate the K/C, I just know that in WOT pulls the IAT will still quickly rise above 140°.

    I am planning on using JW's intercooler mod and maybe do the increased size fitting on my H/E and see what that does first. I really dont want to have to run a trunk mounted tank again. Hose routing around the IRS is what I do not like.

    Here are a few pics of his mods if you have not seen it.

    J2Fab 1.jpg J2Fab 2.jpg J2Fab 3.jpg J2Fab 4.jpg J2Fab 5.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2017
    TooFast98Cobra likes this.
  17. whitedevil95

    whitedevil95 @jaypeesantizzi Established Member

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    Thats cool! I definitely have my eye on the J2fab stuff. So far there is nothing out there that has been proven to keep IAT2s from rising under sustained WOT pulls. My argument for the KC was without it I was starting at 115 degree IAT2 and then finishing the run at 145 degrees. With it I start at 85 degrees and finish a pull at 115. That seems better to me. If we can see solid evidence that the J2fab set up really does stop IAT2 rise under WOT pulls trust me ill buy the whole damn set up!!
     
  18. SVT_Troy

    SVT_Troy Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Yea I am going to start by running the modded intercooler and see how that goes. I am running 3/4" lines with a jabsco pump now, hoping that will flow a decent amount.


    Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2017
  19. SVT_Troy

    SVT_Troy Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Some of my winter mods have started to show up. Here's the new Steeda K member I bought during black friday. I'm still waiting on parts from MM to compliment the new K.

    38398295654_150b4e3429_k.jpg IMG_7251
     
  20. SVT_Troy

    SVT_Troy Well-Known Member Established Member

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    So I bought a set of the standard IRS fitting Weld RTS's 15x10 with 6.5" backspacing. Those have the 28" Hoosier slicks mounted

    The other day i came across a set that was different but fit as well. They are 15x10 with 7" back spacing. I will use them with a 1/2" spacer so they clear. They also have a different measurement lip. They do not look as good as the Cobra IRS spec'd set. My thought is to use these for my drag racing bias plys and the better looking set for my street tires. They came with a set of 26" Et streets in bias ply. Man 26" tires are tiny! Not sure what to do with these yet.

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