Just got a motor build quote and have questions

[quikstang90]

I am starting to look around and get some quotes on having the engine in my gt500 built and I recieved a quote from mpr. Holy ****ing shit!!!! Its a damn street car/ garage queen . I dont need a competition built motor. Can you guys look at this quote and see if its right and what on this list i wouldnt necessarily need. My goal is around 1000 hp. Car doesn't go to the dragstrip

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[quikstang90]

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[Catmonkey]

I'd punt that same question back to MPR and tell them you're not looking to build a competition motor, but realize a 1,000 hp goal requires some pretty stout pieces. Sleeving the block has a pretty stiff price tag and I wonder if you really need to do that, but I don't know how many miles are on your old motor or if it's already damaged. I'd also question porting the heads if this is street car. If you're installing a cam that requires ported heads, it may not be all that streetable either. Manley makes an H beam rod that's a little cheaper too. The I beam they spec'd is stronger, but if you're not going to beat on it, why spend the coin? Work with your builder. Tell him what you posted here that you're looking for a healthy street motor that's capable of making a 1,000 hp, but won't be subjected to that task very often.

 

[sleek98]

Looks like you have 3,500 in head porting and rebuild. If your heads are low mileage you might want to go with a set of NSR cams and just deck the head to bring it back to square.

Another 3,300 to do sleeves, if you have a number of miles or your bore is already damaged you might need them. The spray in liner is thin so maybe he doenst like to go that route and the sleeves cost about the same as a brand new block file sale prices.

Not that I am saying that MPR isnt great, but if you have a low mile block and your just looking to beef up the rods and pistons have you looked into the JDM rebuild kit? *edit I dont see the 5.8 kit anymore*

 

[quikstang90]

Engine has 15k miles on it. Not damaged. Runs great. Just wanting to beef it up a take care of the known weak links b4 they take care of themselves


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[manny231988]

Sounds about right my car has 15k also, got a quote from Jim at JDM and price was like 3 grand less thank yours, but that was assuming your plasma spray In liners could be reused but if they were not price would be around yours.

 

[manny231988]

When I was thinking bout the 1000hp mark myself I was really not thinking of all the stuff that really goes into a build of that magnitude, in my mind I was thinking I was gonna just add new cams new rods and I was gonna be good, haha till Jim explained to me the weak points of the engine and the must do stuff and ya the price was high but imagine a total engine catastrophic event when you just spent so much on just getting rods and cams replaced...that got me thinking and decided to stick to 750 rwhp and good fuel till I decide i On something that big. Bimini is the only guy i know that is 943rwhp and maybe he can chime in and tell you exactly how much money he had to spend to get to that number.

 

[quikstang90]

Im just curious as to what is everyone's take on the sleeves? Is it a must at certain horsepower, then just a mod to talk about at a cars and coffee for some?? Is there a definite as to when its needed and when its not aside from the spray liner being messed up??


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[quikstang90]

Im not an expert on these motors so just asking questions but can this spray in liner really be questionable at 15k miles ? I can understand if u have a muffed up cylinder from a failure but on a perfectly running and driving car needing them????


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[Catmonkey]

The spray liner is very thin. You should be honed it in order to seat the rings. If there's too much wear, honing could destroy the liner and a bare aluminum cylinder wall will not last long in any motor.

 

[Zemedici]

If you have questions about the quote you should take it up with the shop, IMO....not blast them on the Internet.

You’re wanting 1000hp capable, which is a tall order. Remember : cheap, fast, reliable, pick two. These motors are not cheap to build and your quote is right in line.

 

[quikstang90]

Oh im not blasting them at all, just wanting a little real world knowledge and experience with what people have done to their personal cars here and what routes and options other people have taken. Dont want to pull the trigger and 6 months down the road some one says "did u do this...."???? And im like "no". I didnt about that


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[Zemedici]

Oh im not blasting them at all, just wanting a little real world knowledge and experience with what people have done to their personal cars here and what routes and options other people have taken. Dont want to pull the trigger and 6 months down the road some one says "did u do this...."???? And im like "no". I didnt about that


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Ohhhh gotcha - all good brotha my apologies


But - the quote is right in line, fwiw

 

[2011 gtcs]

These 5.8s are expensive to build, also reach out to JDM Engineering. They build a lot of 5.8s

 

[dale.baker]

I am starting to look around and get some quotes on having the engine in my gt500 built and I recieved a quote from mpr. Holy ****ing shit!!!! Its a damn street car/ garage queen . I dont need a competition built motor. Can you guys look at this quote and see if its right and what on this list i wouldnt necessarily need. My goal is around 1000 hp. Car doesn't go to the dragstripView attachment 1439611


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While I have done every reliability based modification that was available by JDM in October of 2015 my goal was to reach 800 RWHP and have great reliability. I got 806 RWHP with 689 lbs FT torque at 7600 RPM tuned by Jim Sr. on his dyno. After nearly 3000 miles of driving this car with all of the modifications (see mods) I have came to one conclusion. It is impossible to hook this car up with 20" drag radials on the street. It is not going to happen. I have the best suspension set up money can buy and the car goes amazingly straight but the tires will not hold the horsepower period.

These engines are expensive and there is a world of difference in price to build a motor like mine that makes 800 RWHP reliably vs. 1000 RWHP. I do not believe their quote is out of line.

JDM does offer a one year warranty on their builds as long as the motor has not been detonated. Pretty tough to beat this deal!

I have one question for you. How are you going to hook 1000 RWHP up on the street in your current car? If you tell me 15" slicks and skinnies on the front then you do not have a street car but a race car. Just my two cents from someone who knows how much it costs to play this game.

 

[ZYBORG]

While I have done every reliability based modification that was available by JDM in October of 2015 my goal was to reach 800 RWHP and have great reliability. I got 806 RWHP with 689 lbs FT torque at 7600 RPM tuned by Jim Sr. on his dyno. After nearly 3000 miles of driving this car with all of the modifications (see mods) I have came to one conclusion. It is impossible to hook this car up with 20" drag radials on the street. It is not going to happen. I have the best suspension set up money can buy and the car goes amazingly straight but the tires will not hold the horsepower period.

These engines are expensive and there is a world of difference in price to build a motor like mine that makes 800 RWHP reliably vs. 1000 RWHP. I do not believe their quote is out of line.

JDM does offer a one year warranty on their builds as long as the motor has not been detonated. Pretty tough to beat this deal!

I have one question for you. How are you going to hook 1000 RWHP up on the street in your current car? If you tell me 15" slicks and skinnies on the front then you do not have a street car but a race car. Just my two cents from someone who knows how much it costs to play this game.

What is your suspension set up?

 

[raustin0017]

Okay...I'll be the one to ask the obvious question. Why do you think you need 1000 HP? If the goal is to run at the track where you can hook that much power I understand. Other than that I don't get it. Add upper pulley, plugs, throttle body, CAI, Lund tune, long tubes and BMR suspension and you will be over 700 to the rear and be able to use it when needed. Take the $10,000 left over and take a nice trip to Europe and see London, Paris, and Rome.

 

[Clemson]

Okay...I'll be the one to ask the obvious question. Why do you think you need 1000 HP? If the goal is to run at the track where you can hook that much power I understand. Other than that I don't get it. Add upper pulley, plugs, throttle body, CAI, Lund tune, long tubes and BMR suspension and you will be over 700 to the rear and be able to use it when needed. Take the $10,000 left over and take a nice trip to Europe and see London, Paris, and Rome.

Kinda my thought as well.....thats a lot of coin for bragging rights, and as several have mentioned, youll never hook that kind of power with a street setup, so its all quite pointless.

 

[RBB]

I'm a few weeks out from getting a built long block back from JDM and those prices are very comparable. Building these motors is not a cheap endeavor.

Some will say that you can get by with a light hone on the aluminum blocks to seat new rings, but I wouldn't chance it. That plasma spray bore liner is so thin to begin with I wouldn't feel good about not sleeving the block....just my opinion. The only thing I see on this list that I would say isn't necessary is the head porting. However, an additional $600 at this stage of the game is trivial, so why not just do it? You could also go with some H beam rods and save another $700 or so. Either way, if you want a stout build that will hold up to the kind of power you want to make, then this is what a good builder is going to charge you for it.

 

[dale.baker]

What is your suspension set up?

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