I am thinking about buying a set of Kooks LT headers for my Shelby. Does anyone have any issues running LT headers only without any additional upgrades such as ported TB or use of larger size blowers? I have heard from other Terminator owners that the addition of LT headers has yielded negative power results, but wanted to see if this was the case with others who may have tried this.
Long Tube Headers - Pros/Cons
- Thread starter G-Force
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love my kooks--no regrets here or issues
Which ones have to be removed to work on the trans? If you leave them on, how are the clearance issues to work on the trans (clutch, etc)? Aren't some significantly easier to work with than others?
My AR headers were removed for clutch installation. Not sure if it was done to make the clutch installation easier, or becouse there was no room and had to be done....
Recent articles in both major mustang magazines show about a 4/5% increase in hp/tq.
That cost about $1,800.00. Is it worth $1,800.00 for a 4/5% increase in hp/tq. For me it was, the folks at Kennie Bell don’t think it is and discourage there use. (They sell New Blowers) Tom@ARH just installed a set of there headers on his new stock GT500 and gained 20hp & 28tq with the stock Mufflers. (4/5%) [Tom sells headers but he don’t discourage the use of different blowers] The more Engine mods the more I think they must help.
That cost about $1,800.00. Is it worth $1,800.00 for a 4/5% increase in hp/tq. For me it was, the folks at Kennie Bell don’t think it is and discourage there use. (They sell New Blowers) Tom@ARH just installed a set of there headers on his new stock GT500 and gained 20hp & 28tq with the stock Mufflers. (4/5%) [Tom sells headers but he don’t discourage the use of different blowers] The more Engine mods the more I think they must help.
I wouldnt recommend LT headers to anyone who doesnt have a KB/Whipple/TVS. The price and difficult install make it questionable in my mind for anyone not looking to make 700rwhp+. Its just too easy to make 500-600rwhp with the factory manifolds and factory cats. Many also find it difficult to get the exhaust note they are looking for with long tubes.
Dynotech don't have to be removed for trans removal
If you are going to do LT's why not buy full length and not mid length like kooks, I would not do any that are not full length. Like Robertt305 said dnyotech's do not need to come off for the trans and the install is not near as bad as people say, did mine a few weeks back and they are no where near as bad as I thought it would be.
Remember that 2011 is bone stock as well. There has been no tuning done. With a good tune it might yield better results.
Thanks for the great insights everyone. I knew there were two camps to this one. I also considered just buying the 3" Bassani catted system, but they complete setup with mufflers costs more than a set of coated headers with catted x-pipe. Anyone try that setup other than 5.0 magazine?
In the process of installing some ARH 1 7/8". You will not be able to drop the trans with the headers bolted on. IMO, I think you can get away with just loosening up the driver's side. If not, you may also have to loosen the passenger side. I would like to here from any mechanics on this. There are no other clearance issues, unless you lower the engine 1/2". I was under the impression that this was addressed by ARH, but apparently not since these were purchased directly from ARH about 6 weeks ago. I had to dimple one primary tube. Not really a big deal. You just have to be prepared to do it.
BTW, these were Swain coated and then painted with VHT.
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Brian, I couldn't move it at all with the BMR engine lowering k-member. Between Ford and BMR's tolerances, there was no movement possible. The only possible alternative I could see would be to take out some of the holes on the engine mount brackets. I think a 1/4 inch on the driver's side of each bracket would do the trick. This way the motor could be pushed to the passenger side. I'm not sure if this issue exists on the 1 3/4" headers.
Before I bolted the rack in, I checked it and found the some dimpling was required. I used a marker so I wouldn't go overboard. I'm happy with how it went.
I see, I didnt have that issue with the racecraft k member but there mounts are way different then bmr. I did take a die grinder to my motor mount brackets but that was for a different reason. Good to see you got it together :beer:
This. :beer:
I also installed a set of ARH 1-7/8 that were coated by Jet-Hot about a week ago. If you have the Lethal lowering kit which I do, you will need to bang on the primaries so that they will not contact the steering shaft. Not a big deal like someone already mentioned but it is a necessity.
BTW, these were Swain coated and then painted with VHT.
Nice, you'll love the Swain...far better than the other stuff out there.
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