+1
new trans, built block, now adding TT setup. Because racecar
Longevity of a coyote motor supercharged
- Thread starter phantom_5_liter
- Start date
new trans, built block, now adding TT setup. Because racecar
I'm on 8.5psi Paxton 2200 and basic bolt ons, 609whp 93 pump. Definietely don't baby the car but don't beat the living hell outta it either. 3k miles so far. I am starting to worry pretty bad about oil pump gears, but really don't want to rip that Paxton back off lol! set at stock redline in an auto but in reality how many cars have really failed because of OPG's? were most boosted? It's tough because with forums stuff tends to be blown way out of proportion sometimes.
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For someone without little experience working on cars in general, installing the oil pump gear actually really wasn't that bad. It's more time consuming than anything, since you have to remove all the radiator hosing, the front engine cover, and the Timing chains. None of the steps were actually that difficult, I was worried about messing with the timing but it's all actually very simple. I think the hardest part for me was actually re-installing some of the radiator hoses, dear god do they take a ton of force to fit back on, and then those godawful factory metal clamps...
I've heard of quite a few failures actually from the Oil Pump Gear, it seems to be higher risk the higher RPM you run and of course if you're boosted since the engine is under more load. The guy at my local Mustang shop who really knows his stuff said it's a must have for any boosted Mustang. If you're gonna do it, it also wouldn't hurt to get a billeted crankshaft gear on there at the same time. The factory crankshaft gear doesn't fail as often, but since you're already taking it off to take the timing off, why not upgrade that to for a few extra hundred $$.
I bought the car new, (2012 GT/CS). I monitored AFR, fuel pressure and boost, was always ok. When it started pinging at WOT I was never able to stay on it long enough to see what the af was doing but at less than full throttle is looked good. I had the car dynoed shortly after install - was pronounced good, conservative (498 RWHP). It checked out at 9# boost max just as advertised. The motor had about 30K miles when installed. I now need a new engine. So my engine lasted 6 months - less than 5000 miles. I am not doing a tear down - but the dealership says there is one damaged piston with oil on the plug, fails the leak down and compression test. They recommend a complete rebuild or replacement. I am installing a new coyote with 3 year warranty and putting the edelbrock up for sale.
28k lost 3 pistons. Rebuildable for $600. Not even mad
28k supercharged or on the motor?
didn't link my last post
So it lasted 13,000 miles? And you can rebuild it for $600? How's that lol, I'm intrigued because that's awesome.
Pretty sure he means tearing it down and replacing only what is messed up with OEM parts. As long as everything is carefully inspected and the pistons are weight matched it will probably run for awhile that way.
That being said, I have heard of enough low mileage engines puking under boost it has me a little leery of much beyond basic bolt ons at this point. I just got mine about a month ago and don't really want a broken down car with a payment book. 90 or more percent of my driving is normal commuting. But a vortech would be nice for that couple trips a year to the strip or that occasional street play when you line up next to a 'vette. I may have to keep my eyes open for a good shape 5.0 out of an f150 to rip apart and beef up as funds permit. I'd still like to be running that vortech. But when I do I want to run 8-9 lbs of boost for the next 100,000 miles on the motor.
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Heh. Most of the time I don't need the stock 420 horse. But for whatever the reason I sure did think 600whp would be nice when I pulled up beside a brand new z06 on the way home the other day.
Yep going with stock Ford stuff.. it took a beating in the first place. I'm going to weigh the pistons with a gram resolution scale, but from what my engine builder said stock shit usually balances. ±2 grams is a safe bet, and not for nothing 4 grams of aluminum is a 1" cube. Here's a link to my screw up thread: http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ites-the-dust-a-few-questions/page2&highlight=
Yep. If you get a piston that you feel is a bit heavy you could always take a die grinder and a ball cutter and carefully take off a small amount of aluminum above the wrist pin on both sides on the underside of the piston right by the back of the dome. That's usually where a machine shop will remove weight from a piston when weight matching a set. Heh. I can appreciate what you are doing. I have been turning wrenches in one form or another from cars to heavy machinery for close to 30 years and you'd be surprised at some of the stuff I've had to make do with over the years when parts, cash, or both were in short supply.
I may ask you for help in the future, we think alike lol
So cruzing threw the post id say the general concesus is max 550rwhp for an overall daily driver, track champ, and all around reliable Coyote.
Roadrunners well TBD
Roadrunners well TBD
tfw 570whp
Tfw 585whp...
you guys are starting to sound like some 2V guys do:lol1:
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