MM Full Length Subframe Connectors Installed

dodint

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One of the first things people recommend when modifying these cars is to install some subframe connectors to stiffen the chassis. This has benefits for drag cars and road course cars alike, and even non-track can benefit from a little less flex. They're a fairly basic modification but I haven't seen a lot of install pictures out there so I thought I would contribute something and share these.

You'll notice that my factory frame rails were crushed and had to be rebuilt. Unfortunate, but maybe seeing the damage will help reinforce the importance of using the correct jack points and proper jacking equipment. The rework added about $450 of fabrication labor to what should have been a relatively cheap upgrade.

I ordered the Maximum Motorsport full length subframe connectors and had them sent to a local race shop. The connectors I went with are here: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM-Full-Length-Subframe-Connectors-1979-04-powdercoated-P585.aspx

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Looks like someone crushed them down using them as in improper jack point. It wasn't me, I've been using the LCAs to get the wheels on and off. The shop basically had to rebuild them before putting the MM rails in:

IMG_1727.jpg


Here is how the transmission flange mount integrates into the rails for the Cobra, the procedure is different than with a non-Cobra SN95. The directions from MM are very good and available online in their tech section:

transmout.jpg


He took it upon himself to paint the welds, which is a nice touch. I was going to do it myself in the garage with a rattle can job, but this is probably more thorough. The rails themselves are powdercoated but it has to be stripped off of the mating surfaces to weld effectively. You can see that he has a proper drive-on lift which is required for welding subframe connectors, unless you want to use something stacked under the wheels to support the weight of the car. The car must be resting on its own weight during installation or you'll weld the connectors in while the subframes are flexed and create a terrible bind in the car.

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The car 'feels' more solid when doing some interstate on ramp 'testing' but I haven't had it back on track yet. They add 27lbs to the weight of the car but I think the stiffness will more than make up for it. Rear seat delete will make up for it as well.
Unfortunately I will not be taking it to the track tomorrow like I planned0. He warned me of a busted passenger side axle seal and he was right, there was gear oil soaking the inside of the wheel. It must have happened during or after the last track day as it was fine when I tech'd the car last time. No big deal, the seal kits are cheap and I'll take care of it this weekend or next. I'll have to take my BMW 650i tomorrow which should be interesting in its own way.

If you happen to be in the Pittsburgh area the work was done at The Race Place and I highly recommend Bret and his team: http://www.theraceplacepa.com/

This video is from before the connectors were put in, but gives you an idea of what kind of tracking I'm doing, best lap starts at 3:00:

 

dodint

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They do not hang lower than the stock exhaust, they were designed that way. The thing that hangs lowest on my car is that rear swaybar, I'd reckon that's about 2-3" lower than the connectors. But that swaybar is probably too low as it is, got it caught in a car wash once.

Another functional feature is that you can use them to jack the car up anywhere along the connector, no more being limited to the designated jack point.
 

busta

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It looks like the shop did a killer job. I need to have SFC's installed before I do anything else. Well... New pads & rotors would probably be a good idea lol.
 

dodint

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I live in Allison Park, work downtown on Grant. Wife and I graduated from Latrobe. We just moved back here, been away in the military for the last decade or so.

Yourself?
 

arayray

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I live in Allison Park, work downtown on Grant. Wife and I graduated from Latrobe. We just moved back here, been away in the military for the last decade or so.

Yourself?

Currently in the military but I'm from Port Vue just outside of Mckeesport. Check out the group I made on Facebook, Pittsburgh Mustang Club.
 

dodint

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The motor is bone stock. Might do a CAI and tune this winter but other than that I have no plans to modify the motor. The only thing I *need* is some quicker throttle response, I'm happy with the output for now.

Suspension:
FRPP Springs
Tokico shocks/struts
2004 Cobra front control arms
adjustable rear upper/lower control arms.
Subframe Connectors

Drivetrain:
D&D Motorsport T56 Magnum 6-speed manual transmission.
McLeod RST Street Twin Clutch (ATM MCL-6911-07C)
Short throw shifter
Steeda adjustable clutch cable (STD 172-0201)
aluminum driveshaft
31-spline FRPP axles
Auburn Pro differential
4.10 FRPP gears
1995 Cobra R wheels
Flowmaster mufflers

Brakes:
2000 Cobra R Brembo front brakes

I'm considering whether I want to convert over to a coilover suspension or just run it for another year and sell. We'll see how I feel in the spring.
 

WutApex

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...I'm considering whether I want to convert over to a coilover suspension or just run it for another year and sell. We'll see how I feel in the spring.
My 2¢, this car seems like a perfect canidate for NASA CMC.
 

dodint

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My 2¢, this car seems like a perfect canidate for NASA CMC.

Interesting, never looked into it. My issue is that I don't want to do anything to the car that can't be undone (though I suppose most of the upgrades are permanent if we're being realistic) so I don't want to cage it. I bought it as my intro to track days and such and figure I'll outgrow it by the end of next year.

It handles very well though. Better than my 650i by a long shot, as I found out yesterday.
 

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