Their web site states 10-14 days.
Don't recall the exact day I sent the request, but it's been at least 10 days.
Motorcraft 5W50 VOA
- Thread starter 6-Speed
- Start date
Their web site states 10-14 days.
Don't recall the exact day I sent the request, but it's been at least 10 days.
If I run Redline instead of MotorCraft will it void my warranty? What do you guys think about the Ford Racing Oil filter?
1. No
2. Good filter, but even the normal 820 Motorcraft filter will be just fine for oil change intervals of 7,500 miles or less. I prefer AMSOIL's EaO11 filter as top dog.
Thanks for the quick response and info!
If you can't get the Amsoil EA filter when you need it, which is an excellent filter, the Purolator Pure 1 is next best and about the same cost as the Ford filter.
Easy to order a case of Amsoil filters online to keep things simple and have a spare Ford drain plug on hand just in case.
Also, if you do an oil analysis with each oil change and the dealer if tries to assert anything about not using Ford oil/filters, you'll have hard data to throw back at them. I had that happen at Saab and enjoyed every second of it.
Easy to order a case of Amsoil filters online to keep things simple and have a spare Ford drain plug on hand just in case.
Also, if you do an oil analysis with each oil change and the dealer if tries to assert anything about not using Ford oil/filters, you'll have hard data to throw back at them. I had that happen at Saab and enjoyed every second of it.
I use common sense, I've read where guy's are getting rid of their Afco HE's and changing to the Shelby unit. To me that is nuts and like I said before regarding oil , I can show you a thread on bike sites, boat sites all have people saying how terrible Yamaha oil is etc. And they all go on about how Mobil 1 uased to be good. But thankfully Amsoil is here to save the day, I heard a guy was injecting it in his knee for arthritas.
In my town I know a few Gt500 owners and they are really concerned about the Ford oil since reading all these threads on a couple of sites. And one of them is swapping out his Afco HE after reading its worse than the stock unit.
Come on.
In my town I know a few Gt500 owners and they are really concerned about the Ford oil since reading all these threads on a couple of sites. And one of them is swapping out his Afco HE after reading its worse than the stock unit.
Come on.
They shouldn't be that concerned. They should drain their oil at about 3K, send in an oil analysis and read the results. Then they can change it accordingly as their results will tell them about how long the oil should last based on their own personal car, driving habits, and location in the US.
All of these threads should be taken as a general guideline. Each car is different (mods, etc), used for different things (cruising, 1/4 mile pulls, track days) to rely on them as much as it sounds like your friends are.
One sample from one person is not exactly a strong sample size nor is the opinion of a few something you should take as gods word. Run your own analysis and see what results you get.
To rely too much on one UOA, esp not knowing anything about the car/how it is driving, is incorrect.
Often times people takes things out of context and then react. They confuse "I want the best oil" with "I want what is sufficient". Personally, I like running the best performing oil and will make an informed decision utilizing the results posted here to a degree.
Same deal with the heat exchanger...people confuse best with what will work for them. I'm switching mine out based on a specific modification plan...I know the limits of the AFCO non-fan and will need the fan. Unless they know the H/E they have is not sufficient for their needs, it sounds like they are throwing money away. Unless they want the best unit just to have it...then switching it out is what they should do.
So, the sky isn't falling...they should not freak out...just send in their own oil sample and make an informed decision for their specific car.
All of these threads should be taken as a general guideline. Each car is different (mods, etc), used for different things (cruising, 1/4 mile pulls, track days) to rely on them as much as it sounds like your friends are.
One sample from one person is not exactly a strong sample size nor is the opinion of a few something you should take as gods word. Run your own analysis and see what results you get.
To rely too much on one UOA, esp not knowing anything about the car/how it is driving, is incorrect.
Often times people takes things out of context and then react. They confuse "I want the best oil" with "I want what is sufficient". Personally, I like running the best performing oil and will make an informed decision utilizing the results posted here to a degree.
Same deal with the heat exchanger...people confuse best with what will work for them. I'm switching mine out based on a specific modification plan...I know the limits of the AFCO non-fan and will need the fan. Unless they know the H/E they have is not sufficient for their needs, it sounds like they are throwing money away. Unless they want the best unit just to have it...then switching it out is what they should do.
So, the sky isn't falling...they should not freak out...just send in their own oil sample and make an informed decision for their specific car.
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Well.... I now have 7 BlackStone kits... :lol:
I guess they wanted to make sure I got enough and since I put "send more kits" on the first returned sample, they obliged. I was trying to get the RedLine out before the holidays but just couldn't do it.
It's all packed up and ready to go, I'll get it out to the post office on Monday.
I guess they wanted to make sure I got enough and since I put "send more kits" on the first returned sample, they obliged. I was trying to get the RedLine out before the holidays but just couldn't do it.
It's all packed up and ready to go, I'll get it out to the post office on Monday.
Exactly, from the years I have been racing Amsoil has been number 1 in tests etc. that I have read. And yes the Shelby unit I have read is the best but if you don't have them the sky isn't falling.
I agree 100%
Purolator Pure 1 is my go to filter when I am forced to buy over the counter at a parts store. AMSOIL doesn't build a EaO filter for every application, and in those instances....I run for Purolator.
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Got my kit thursday of last week. Only took 4 days from the time I did it over the net. I will do one on my truck but it only has 5-20 Mobil 1. Can't do the GT500 because it only has 600 miles on the oil. I want to get at least 2000 before I change it
I've had a few days now to review the results of AMSOIL 10W-40 in my GT500, and I can't smile any larger.
The cold start lugging (32*F and lower) I was experiencing with 20W-50 is all gone. It started just fine with 20W-50, but you could tell it had a little added resistance in freezing temperatures. This was not an issue at warm temperatures that are more common to Florida. Like today, temperatures are in the 60's and rising. This is why I do not recommend AMSOIL 20W-50 during the winter months for those of you who do not store their cars.
The engine is so quiet at idle with 10W-40, if it wasn't for injector tick, exhaust note, and supercharger whistle, I couldn't tell the engine was even running. The previous fill of 20W-50 was quieter than the factory fill of 5W-50, but the 10W-40 is clearly the winner in the idle valve train silence department.
I wish I would have data logged engine coolant temperatures with the previous fill of 5W-50 and 20W-50. Then I would have had a base line to see if ECT's dropped due to less friction and resistance. Oh well....maybe another car, as I already know the 10W-40 is the ticket for this engine.
I have a Fuelly.com account for all of my cars, and I'm very anal about tracking fuel mileage. I'm expecting my fuel mileage to trend upwards after the change to 10W-40 for a few reasons.
1. 10W-40 provides less resistance versus 20W-50.
2. 10W-40 (group IV/V) provides less friction and resistance versus 5W-50 (group III) even after the 5W-50 has sheared to a heavy 30 grade.
3. Less resistance on start up versus 20W-50, and possibly 5W-50 (group III) due to superior base stocks.
I will keep all members here who are interested updated on fuel mileage gains. Sunday I have to take my kids on a long road trip. It's the perfect chance to test mileage gains, as this trip is the mirror trip, distance, and temperatures from last Sunday.
The cold start lugging (32*F and lower) I was experiencing with 20W-50 is all gone. It started just fine with 20W-50, but you could tell it had a little added resistance in freezing temperatures. This was not an issue at warm temperatures that are more common to Florida. Like today, temperatures are in the 60's and rising. This is why I do not recommend AMSOIL 20W-50 during the winter months for those of you who do not store their cars.
The engine is so quiet at idle with 10W-40, if it wasn't for injector tick, exhaust note, and supercharger whistle, I couldn't tell the engine was even running. The previous fill of 20W-50 was quieter than the factory fill of 5W-50, but the 10W-40 is clearly the winner in the idle valve train silence department.
I wish I would have data logged engine coolant temperatures with the previous fill of 5W-50 and 20W-50. Then I would have had a base line to see if ECT's dropped due to less friction and resistance. Oh well....maybe another car, as I already know the 10W-40 is the ticket for this engine.
I have a Fuelly.com account for all of my cars, and I'm very anal about tracking fuel mileage. I'm expecting my fuel mileage to trend upwards after the change to 10W-40 for a few reasons.
1. 10W-40 provides less resistance versus 20W-50.
2. 10W-40 (group IV/V) provides less friction and resistance versus 5W-50 (group III) even after the 5W-50 has sheared to a heavy 30 grade.
3. Less resistance on start up versus 20W-50, and possibly 5W-50 (group III) due to superior base stocks.
I will keep all members here who are interested updated on fuel mileage gains. Sunday I have to take my kids on a long road trip. It's the perfect chance to test mileage gains, as this trip is the mirror trip, distance, and temperatures from last Sunday.
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Either will be just fine, as they are in the same performance class.
Make sure you do a UOA when you change your oil. We need all the information we can get.
The levels of P and Zn from the used oil sample is higher than the levels measured from the virgin sample of the same oil. I can only attribute the low levels to those metals falling out of suspension during the 8 months the bottle was sitting on the shelf. Perhaps the VOA readings on P and Zn would have been in line with the UOA measurements had I shook the bottle before taking the sample. Here's the UOA of the same oil; the levels of P and Zn are compliant with API SM/SN levels.
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The levels of P and Zn from the used oil sample is higher than the levels measured from the virgin sample of the same oil. I can only attribute the low levels to those metals falling out of suspension during the 8 months the bottle was sitting on the shelf. Perhaps the VOA readings on P and Zn would have been in line with the UOA measurements had I shook the bottle before taking the sample. Here's the UOA of the same oil; the levels of P and Zn are compliant with API SM/SN levels.
Thanks for the UOA. I've replied in more detail to it in your dedicated thread. Here is a link for those who haven't seen it yet.
6-Speed's UOA Thread
I made another long distance road trip today, and it's the first trip using AMSOIL 10W-40. I expected an increase in fuel economy, but not 2 mpg.
Yep, you heard me right. Last trip the GT500 averaged 18.1 mpg.
This trip It average 20.2 mpg.
All conditions were the same: temperature, speeds, distance, road traveled, etc.
The only change was the oil, as 10W-40 is thinner than 20W-50 or 5W-50. My car never achieved this with the factory fill of 5W-50.
I was able to drive all the way there (215 miles one way), and almost half way back. I'm really liking the change so far.
Yep, you heard me right. Last trip the GT500 averaged 18.1 mpg.
This trip It average 20.2 mpg.
All conditions were the same: temperature, speeds, distance, road traveled, etc.
The only change was the oil, as 10W-40 is thinner than 20W-50 or 5W-50. My car never achieved this with the factory fill of 5W-50.
I was able to drive all the way there (215 miles one way), and almost half way back. I'm really liking the change so far.
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