I went for the mechanical boost gauge. Comes with very thin tubing as you can see in my previous pics. Was going to change it to better tubing at some point but it works perfectly.
My Procharger install Review
- Thread starter JustINcase
- Start date
Well I finally got everything together, loaded my first tune revision from Lund (limited and not allowed to get into boost - they gave me specific instructions for remote data log), and fired it up for the first time. The good news is that it fired right up and I didn't see or notice any big problems right away. BUT - I noticed that as I gently gave partial throttle in neutral the sound of air from the air intake filter was really loud - as in, 10HP shop vac loud. As the revs climb it's really loud like a street cleaner! It sounds perfectly normal at idle and the supercharger makes the appropriate whistling/marbles sound (I've watched plenty of Youtube vids of this setup lol) but this air sound seems totally wrong. However, the car seemed happy enough so I went ahead and did the data logging per the instructions. I did notice as the boost gauge worked its way to almost 0 (near boost, but not into boost yet per instructions) the sound almost stopped. It seems as though maybe the BOV is stuck shut, and that sound is air coming back through the SC (surge)? Does that sound like it maybe? Keep in mind this was a used kit, so I can't know for sure the state of everything. Of course, the previous owner did say it all works properly etc. What do you guys think? Is there a way to test my BOV?
here is the valve:
here is the valve:
It looks like you have the pro flow bullet valve "open" which is louder than the standard one. The standard one that come with the kits is the regular pro flow valve with an air filter on it.
https://store.procharger.com/WebDirect/Products/Category?categoryId=11
https://store.procharger.com/WebDirect/Products/Category?categoryId=11
Strange that there's no Procharger writing on mine though? Anyway, the loud air sound is coming from the main air intake. It's hard to explain what it sounds like. Maybe I should post a video. I sent an email to Lund with the datalog...we'll see what he says.
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Once you have an "open" bypass valve its gonna sound like a street sweeper.
I can see once the throttle plate closes and the BOV opens (to "Blow Off" pressure), that's going to be loud (that's the nice psssh sound). However, this is all with part throttle (maybe 10-15%) for the remote tune session with Lund. At this point I believe the BOV should be closed and making no "air sound". I read in another thread on here a big debate on whether a BOV should be open or closed @ idle, or part throttle, and I think consensus was if the MAF is after the BOV - it doesn't matter. All that said, if I just hold my rpms in neutral at say 3000 - it sounds like a street cleaner at that point and it's coming from the main inlet. I would say - hey the compressor is sucking air in, that has to make some noise, but it almost sounds as if the SC is blowing air back through the main air inlet. Maybe Dakota@Lund will have an idea.
The bypass valve will not close until you are into boost. If you are at 4000 rpm just cruising, the blower is spinning and the air has to go somewhere. Once you get into boost the valve closes.
I have a feeling mine is stuck closed and so this air has nowhere to go when the TB plate is closed or near closed when at idle or slight throttle. I guess I have to remove the bumper and get that thing back out and test it. I knew I should have done the test driving for the first part of the remote tune with no bumper! But my car's inspection just ran out and all I need is to get pulled over for the bumper (or lack of) and then get a $300 ticket for my expired inspection 
Yeah I left the bumper off for a couple of days after the install to make sure it was mechanically good...
First one is standard valve. Second one is the one you have. Huge difference in sound.
Thanks that's a great comparison video! See mine sounds all the time like it's blowing off but from the main air Inlet...not the bov outlet. My theory is that if it's stuck shut and ig the throttle body is closed, air is surging backward through the compressor and out the air filter. I borrowed a vacuum pump from my co-worker to test.
Sent from my [device_name] using the svtperformance.com mobile app
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If it turns out its no good let me know, I have a pro flow(non bullet style) that I will sell you that works perfectly.
Perfect, I'll keep you posted. The guys at Lund are at a racing event today and I'm busy all day tomorrow so I may not have any results or answers until this weekend. Thanks!
Well I did a test yesterday of the blow off valve and it turns out it seems to work perfectly. And once the bumper was off I could feel how much air is coming out of the bov at idle, or part throttle...it's a ton! So I guess you guys were right it's just that it's very loud - even when at part throttle in neutral. To get it to close, I had to very quickly floor it to get out of vacuum, it closes real quick, and then opens right back up. I couldn't do it too much in my driveway it was getting late yesterday evening and with headers and off-road exhaust flooring it is highly undesirable to some of my snooty neighbors lol 
. So now I wait for Lund to look at my data that I logged, and tell me if I'm ready to get into some boost!
Sent from my [device_name] using the svtperformance.com mobile app
. So now I wait for Lund to look at my data that I logged, and tell me if I'm ready to get into some boost! Sent from my [device_name] using the svtperformance.com mobile app
cool deal, yeah the street sweeper sound with the bullet style Bypass valve is pretty normal, I've got a turbosmart valve and its loud as hell between 2-4k rpms at PT.
To each his own, but I personally don't like the sound at PT at all - it's not the decibels but just that it sounds like a street sweeper. Can't hear the SC at all in any way as the air sound is so loud. If I end up switching to a closed valve - where does it recirculate the air back to the inlet for this kit? In other words where does the other port of the closed valve get connected to? Or I guess I could get get a pro flo and vent it through the little filter back to atmosphere (is that not as loud - just having the filter)?
I got a revision from Lund this morning. Ready for a couple more PT logs, and one 3rd gear WOT run/log!
I got a revision from Lund this morning. Ready for a couple more PT logs, and one 3rd gear WOT run/log!
Just go with the regular pro flow bypass valve that they include with their kits with the filter on it. Will reduce that street sweeper sound substantially.
After a couple tune revisions from Lund the car runs pretty good - but I noticed that I can't hit even 8 lbs of boost (normally fluctuating at 5-7) when my pulley should yield about 10-11 (maybe a little less with the O/R exhaust). Also, the tuner said that my load factor drops off quite a bit at high rpm, so he said it's a definite boost leak. So, I started setting up for my boost leak test. I disconnected the TB and plugged the pipe that would normally connect to the TB. The problem is, when I connect any air pressure to the SC inlet, ALL air leaks out the BOV. BUT, I'm thinking this is because the BOV vacuum line has no boost to hold it shut (since the TB is totally disconnected - the whole vacuum system is @ atmospheric). Am I thinking correctly about that, or should the BOV not leak, even with the vacuum port having no boost or vacuum?
Well, I did a lot of boost leak testing in the last week. In summary, I had to plug the BOV port in addition to the TB pipe in order to hold any pressure. Once I did that, the only place that leaks at all is through the seal around the P1SC itself. Now, I don't know - should the SC hold pressure (10-15psi) when pressurized from the inlet side? That's usually under vacuum, so I'm not sure if that's a valid test? If it is, and it's a sealed unit and should not leak at all, then I have a problem there. In any case I did get the TB connection back on more solid with a t-clamp (the 90 elbow really needs to be about 120 degrees!), you have to bend the elbow to get it square with the TB and still connect to the tube coming from the IC. With that, I am seeing more consistent 8 lbs of boost max around 7k rpm with the 4.00 pulley. It seems to maybe depend on the gear, and the air temps, but I even saw a flash of 9 once or twice. Should the SC leak air if pressurized from the inlet side?
Not sure about that but maybe the gauge is slightly off. Can try a cheap mechanical gauge and see what you get. Not unheard of for an electrical boost gauge to be off a psi or 2. I know i am not seeing 8-9psi until 7500 with the 4.25 but you should be seeing that at 7000 with the 4.00
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