My Wilwood brake issue.

Flcracker

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
310
Location
Miami, FL
Ok, I remember bleeding the brakes when I was a kid with my dad. He would have me pump the brakes while he was tightening up something? I'm not a mechanic. I'm a driver. Anyway… Maybe someone can shine some light on how I go about bleeding these brakes? Thank You!
 

Paul.

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2013
Messages
415
Location
Phoenix
It doesn't matter what brake pads they came with. They'll stop you just fine from 100 mph once. Brake doesn't happen happen from one stop, it happens from lots of repeated hard stops and building lots of heat in the brakes.

Also, this whole post doesn't make any sense. If there was air in the lines, it wouldn't just feel mushy from 100 mph, it would feel mushy from any speed. Hydraulic lines don't care how fast you're going - they always operate the same. If your pedal really went all the way to the floor, I doubt you'd be willing to take it out and "take them out and try again" unless you're slightly suicidal.



If there really is a problem, then take the car back to whoever installed them, like you said you were going to already several posts up.

Paul.
 

Todd TCE

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2006
Messages
197
Location
Tempe
Be certain also they have installed the proper caliper on each side...they are directional specific. In correct mounting will lead to rapid pad wear and possibly a soft pedal due to the tapering.

BTW; have the shop fully bleed the rears in case they got air in them doing the front install. Seen it happen.


Need more...let me know. I know a bit about all this stuff.
 
Last edited:

noldevin

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2014
Messages
720
Location
New Jersey
Also, this whole post doesn't make any sense. If there was air in the lines, it wouldn't just feel mushy from 100 mph, it would feel mushy from any speed. Hydraulic lines don't care how fast you're going - they always operate the same. If your pedal really went all the way to the floor, I doubt you'd be willing to take it out and "take them out and try again" unless you're slightly suicidal.



If there really is a problem, then take the car back to whoever installed them, like you said you were going to already several posts up.

Paul.

While hydraulic lines don't care how fast you're going, DOT3 fluid does. If the shop just used regular old DOT3, it could definitely get near boiling point from a single high speed stop. You only need a little bit of air in the line to mess with how the fluid acts when heated, since it now has more room to expand or evaporate. The rears on this car are a pain to get fully bled, it can often take multiple bleeding sessions to get every last bit of air out (especially on that rear left one, ugh...).
 

Paul.

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2013
Messages
415
Location
Phoenix
I don't care, it's still gonna stop once just fine. If there's air in the lines, it's gonna act funny from any speed, not just 100 mph.
 

noldevin

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2014
Messages
720
Location
New Jersey
It could just be a very small amount of air that isn't very noticeable with cold fluid, but becomes exagerrated with hot fluid. Have you ever felt boiled fluid? Pedal feels fine until it boils. Then it hits the floor. Just like he's describing. Air in the lines makes it easier to boil the fluid. It could also be old fluid that the shop had sitting around or perhaps they didn't do a full flush. Old fluid also boils easier.
 

Flcracker

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
310
Location
Miami, FL
I don't care, it's still gonna stop once just fine. If there's air in the lines, it's gonna act funny from any speed, not just 100 mph.

They are mushy at all speeds. ( I never said they weren't) Also, the pedal does go to the floor at higher speeds ( the brakes are dealing with lots of inertia) after the brakes have slowed it down some then I coast to a stop. That's exactly how it happens.
 
Last edited:

Black Thunder 715

Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2013
Messages
528
Location
Tampa Bay
Hey OP. DOT 3 has a lower boiling point than DOT 4. If you can, instead of bleeding the system, it maybe a better idea to flush it and change it to DOT 4 synthetic. I did it on a nissan maxima that I used to own and there was a noticeable diff.
 
Last edited:

2Fass240us

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2015
Messages
22
Location
Charlotte, NC
Late to the party, but I'd add my vote to "air in the lines." ALso glad to see Todd is here...he really knows his shiz and I've worked with him to source Wilwood components for two custom applications. The latest is pictured below.

As for bleeding, here's the order I use with my 6-piston Superlites up front:
  1. Passenger rear
  2. Driver rear
  3. Passenger front, outside bleeder
  4. Passenger front, inside bleeder
  5. Driver front, outside bleeder
  6. Driver front, inside bleeder
I use a Motive bleeder and LOVE it. For the drain, I use a Basil Hayden bottle (clear wine bottle will work too), with a hole drilled in the cap and a piece of tubing going to the bottom of the bottle. I chose this bottle because it's less prone to tip, clear, and holds a LOT of fluid. I'm happy to take a picture if you like.

My current setup:
12993324_872303216231475_2549967140349472180_n.jpg


12994593_872303446231452_9061765595928234462_n.jpg
 

Fernando@

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2013
Messages
81
Location
Orlando
I have Wilwood Drag brakes and they work very well. Took me a little while to bleed the system but no issues here.
 

Flcracker

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
310
Location
Miami, FL
Had the brakes looked at and it turns out that the pedal I felt under braking was the car going into ABS. My apologies for the confusion.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top