Official UOA thread with oil poll

What oil are you currently using in your Shelby 5.4L?


  • Total voters
    449
  • Poll closed .

ViperBlueCobra

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It's not free, you have to provide your credit card information when you do the test. They send the kit to you free....payment for testing is required later.

Thanks for the sample. You are contributing to the GT500 community and will have first hand knowledge if your engine has any issues.

Yeah, no worries.

However, I'm not sure what all that means in the spread sheet your posting. Can you elaborate a bit on each colum?
 

UnleashedBeast

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Yeah, no worries.

However, I'm not sure what all that means in the spread sheet your posting. Can you elaborate a bit on each colum?

UOA report explanation

Click the link above, then click on "Gas/Diesel" report. When the report opens on your screen, read everything and hover your pointer over all areas for an explanation.
 

UnleashedBeast

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What is TBN?? it isn't explained on the sample. I know it's discussed a lot. Higher is better???

TBN (Total Base Number) is what we refer to as a detergent additive, or acid neutralizing additive. This is what fights to keep a lubricant neutral on a pH balance to avoid the lubricant become overly acidic and eating away at the metals in an engine.

Yes, the higher the better. Higher TBN in a lubricant normally suggests a longer possible oil change interval.
 

CuZzO99L

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Ordered the oil pressure kit for my aeroforce. Looking like fri for the first Start up. MMR has instructed me to use Penzoil 10W30 non synthetic untill the I get 500 miles on it, then do one more 500 mile interval with the same 10w30 and then switch to whatever I want. Im really non sure on the whole second 500 mile interval seems like everything should be broken in during the first heat cycle right? How long do you guys normally wait before going on the dyno with a brand new motor? Anyway, I have the Amsoil 10W30 Synthetic and EA filters waiting for post break in.:beer:
 

dirtyo2000

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Man that's opening a can of worms because everyone has their own break-in procedure. I know I like to play around with mine but never to agressive for the first 500 miles. First change is to get the prelubes out of the motor. All the cam lube and bearing lube used in assembly. Like myself I use WD-40 like crazy when I install the pistons in rings. All the lubricants get in the oil upon start up and start to float around the motor.

Assembled the motor in my Vette a few months ago. Started it up to make sure all was good. Drove it around for about 100 miles and changed the oil while the car was hot. Now I used regular 10-30 penzoil. When I drained the oil it looked a little reddish gold. Probably from all the cam lube that was used. Went right back with the pennzoil 10-30 and put 500 miles on that. Played with it every now and then but never took it over 5K. Did a few good pulls through third and fourth just to watch oil pressure.

After that I went with one last change for 250 miles. This was done because I started getting a few 7K shifts out of the motor and making sure all was straight before the big dyno day. The main thing is making sure the rings seat in properly. Bearings don't break in. Seating the rings is crucial and impossible on synthetic oil. After 250 miles of cutting the fool and seeing how things were going in the motor I now run Mobil 1 fully synthetic in it. All is well so far and 4K on the build. Still working a few bugs out still but HP is getting to meet my goals lol.

First oil change gets rid of assembly lubes. Second gets rid of all the metal that breaks in. Timing gears, oil pump gears, all rotating assembly shavings and metals that come off the motor. Enjoy and have fun.
 

UnleashedBeast

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Ordered the oil pressure kit for my aeroforce. Looking like fri for the first Start up. MMR has instructed me to use Penzoil 10W30 non synthetic untill the I get 500 miles on it, then do one more 500 mile interval with the same 10w30 and then switch to whatever I want. Im really non sure on the whole second 500 mile interval seems like everything should be broken in during the first heat cycle right?

With the second 500 mile interval, you are changing the filter each time. This helps clear most initial wear metals from your engine. Use cheaper Ford FL820 oil filters for the break in sessions. No point in wasting money. They are also correct about using cheap conventional oil, no synthetic, for break in. IMO, if it were MY $$$$ engine...this is what I would use to break it in.

Amsoil Break in oil

How long do you guys normally wait before going on the dyno with a brand new motor? Anyway, I have the Amsoil 10W30 Synthetic and EA filters waiting for post break in.:beer:

Most of us waited until 1,500-2,000 miles to dump the factory fill. Follow MMRs suggestion since they built the engine.

I gave Amsoil 10W-30 a 345 mile run today, and it did great. Oil pressure at the peak showed idle pressure to be ~23-25 PSI. Cruising pressure ranged from 65-73 PSI (1,800-2,200 rpm).

Just keep an eye on your oil pressure when you get the oil really hot with those turbos. If you have oil pressures ever drop under 20 PSI @ hot idle, you may need to increase up to a 10W-40.

I also want to add that I had no improved mpg with 10W-30 versus the same 345 mile run made with 10W-40. If the UOAs don't return any better performance, I may switch back to the heavier lubricant.
 
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UnleashedBeast

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My latest creation. Here is an easy chart to know what to use in your Shelby for the intended application.

AmsoilMixingChart.jpg
 
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DaFreak

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My latest creation. Here is an easy chart to know what to use in your Shelby for the intended application.

AmsoilMixingChart.jpg

Very nice Beast! Question for you, do you think Van's radiator is comparable to running a 170* stat? I've got the radiator and a stock stat and just curious how you think this would fit in?

Cheers,
 

UnleashedBeast

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Very nice Beast! Question for you, do you think Van's radiator is comparable to running a 170* stat? I've got the radiator and a stock stat and just curious how you think this would fit in?

Cheers,

His radiator is much more efficient and will dissipate heat much more rapidly, but the stock thermostat would still regulate temps at ~200*F, so I would follow the daily driven 192* stat recommendations unless the car was being road raced.
 

UnleashedBeast

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I was considering doing some mixing with M1 5W50 and M1 0W40 since their 0W40 is a rather thin 40 grade.

I would prefer you simply run straight 0W-40 Mobil 1. You would see improved mpg and is still sufficient to protect your engine (13.5 cSt @ 100*C - HT/HS 3.8). Even after shearing to 11.5-12.0 cSt after a few thousands miles it would still be fine for your application. I would use it over Motorcraft 5W-50 any day of the week.
 
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UnleashedBeast

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Look at all those Motorcraft 5W-50 users!

What I have learned from this poll.

Ford knows how to make money from an inferior formulation and oil spec. Scare tactics are the best way to sway the population. Hmmmm, sounds exactly like our government the past 10 years.
 

DaFreak

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His radiator is much more efficient and will dissipate heat much more rapidly, but the stock thermostat would still regulate temps at ~200*F, so I would follow the daily driven 192* stat recommendations unless the car was being road raced.

You got my attention again Beast. I just filled with Amsoil 10-40w about 400 miles ago. In 2 weeks I am participating in my second hi perf driving school outing which consists of ~ 3-10 and 4-20 minute sessions. Would you recommend any mixing with another weight before the course?

Thanks for the expertise,
 

UnleashedBeast

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You got my attention again Beast. I just filled with Amsoil 10-40w about 400 miles ago. In 2 weeks I am participating in my second hi perf driving school outing which consists of ~ 3-10 and 4-20 minute sessions. Would you recommend any mixing with another weight before the course?

Thanks for the expertise,

No, I do not want you change anything. Run straight Amsoil 10W-40 for road racing, even IF you have cooling mods.
 

DaFreak

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No, I do not want you change anything. Run straight Amsoil 10W-40 for road racing, even IF you have cooling mods.

Will do, thanks Beast. FYI - Late fall I be doing a POSI port and we can resume our AFCO vs C/R HE (a hot topic right now) testing
 

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