That is exactly what did. I emailed Terry at BeefcakeRacing and asked if I could swap them out. So Far I am glad I ordered it though those guys as they seem really knowledgeable. I am really starting to get pumped. I hope it gets here this week. My Lund Tunner and Injectors came in yesterday and John from Lund emailed me and asked for some specifics but not exactly sure when the Tune will actually come in. I will have to wait for the BAP and the catch can should be here on Monday. No word on the P1X yet but this coming weekend would be a great time to do the install. Imeyers you have any issues getting the Harmonic Balancer Bolt off? Any words of wisdom on the install? I am going to try to video it and throw it up on YouTube.
Procharger Question about trimming he bumper cover
- Thread starter JustINcase
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That is exactly what did. I emailed Terry at BeefcakeRacing and asked if I could swap them out. So Far I am glad I ordered it though those guys as they seem really knowledgeable. I am really starting to get pumped. I hope it gets here this week. My Lund Tunner and Injectors came in yesterday and John from Lund emailed me and asked for some specifics but not exactly sure when the Tune will actually come in. I will have to wait for the BAP and the catch can should be here on Monday. No word on the P1X yet but this coming weekend would be a great time to do the install. Imeyers you have any issues getting the Harmonic Balancer Bolt off? Any words of wisdom on the install? I am going to try to video it and throw it up on YouTube.
Balancer bolt was no issue but I have a cordless impact. The install is very straight forward. Just follow the directions to the letter. Only suggestions i have are to make sure you get the crank pulley on correctly and make sure all clamps are nice and snug. A second set of hands helps at some points.
ON the crank pully I see in the instructions where you have to line it up correctly. Once you put it on do you turn it a bit to lock it in place?
Once you have it lined up it will move a little back and forth until you tighten the cam lock bolts. Once you tighten down the bolts it's solid. Also when you install the main bracket there is a hard coolant tube that need to be bent slightly. Made me very nervous. Call procharger and they assured me thats the way it has to be done. Just do it little by little until you are able to slide the bracket bolt in. Was not a problem at all. Looking at front of car it's the top left bolt on the main bracket.
I stress. Make sure clamps are tight. First full pull for dataloging i blew a connection. Was very loud and startling to say the least. Went home tightened everything up and have had zero problems since. I bought a set of upgraded t clamps from Terry but have yet to install them.
I stress. Make sure clamps are tight. First full pull for dataloging i blew a connection. Was very loud and startling to say the least. Went home tightened everything up and have had zero problems since. I bought a set of upgraded t clamps from Terry but have yet to install them.
Man, thanks a ton for answering all these questions. Here are a few more. Hopefully others thinking of going down this path will find this thread as useful as I think it is.
1. How did you route your oil drain line? Do you have to get it in the air to change the oil for the procharger?
2. At what steps is it great to have an extra set of hands? (so I can plan to have somebody there)
3. Did you reuse your coolant or buy new?
4. It looks like you mount the Procharger on the bracket then mount the bracket to the car with the head unit attached? <-- Guessing this is a spot where its nice to have the second set of hands?
5. How loud is the fan? I cant seem to find any videos where I can hear it but people complain about the fan noise.
Thanks
Justin
1. How did you route your oil drain line? Do you have to get it in the air to change the oil for the procharger?
2. At what steps is it great to have an extra set of hands? (so I can plan to have somebody there)
3. Did you reuse your coolant or buy new?
4. It looks like you mount the Procharger on the bracket then mount the bracket to the car with the head unit attached? <-- Guessing this is a spot where its nice to have the second set of hands?
5. How loud is the fan? I cant seem to find any videos where I can hear it but people complain about the fan noise.
Thanks
Justin
1. Oil drain line routes down where the bypass valve is. Very easy.
2. Mounting intercooler and mounting bracket with blower attached.
3. Once it leaves the car it does not go back in. Just my gentleness. Used new coolant.
4. Yes
5. The fan noise is not an issue at all. I think some of the complaints were with older kits.
Last thing is if you have a track package make sure you tell them so they include the parta bag to relocate the oil cooler lines. If tou dont have a track package then you dont have to do that step.
2. Mounting intercooler and mounting bracket with blower attached.
3. Once it leaves the car it does not go back in. Just my gentleness. Used new coolant.
4. Yes
5. The fan noise is not an issue at all. I think some of the complaints were with older kits.
Last thing is if you have a track package make sure you tell them so they include the parta bag to relocate the oil cooler lines. If tou dont have a track package then you dont have to do that step.
Also when you mount the procharger blower and bracket to the car, make sure you have the first hose attached to the procharger per the instruction recommendations. It is impossible to install the hose after the blower has been attached to the car.
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There is a coolant line that needs to be bent? I dont remember having to do this when i installed my kit. Its also not in the instructions? Maybe i got lucky and didnt have that clearance issue?
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When they talk about draining the coolant in the cooling system, are they just referring to the coolant reservoir or the radiator as well? I suspect just the reservoir. (I dont have the track pack)
Also, on the Vacuum Manifold, are you running a boost gauge? Is that what the Surge Valve Barb is for?
Also, on the Vacuum Manifold, are you running a boost gauge? Is that what the Surge Valve Barb is for?
If you don't have the track pack then I think you just need to drain enough to go below the upper radiator hose. I had to drain the radiator because I had to remove the lower hose to reroute the oil cooler lines.
There are three ports on the manifold. One goes to the bypass valve. I hooked a boost gauge into another one and the third is closed off.
There are three ports on the manifold. One goes to the bypass valve. I hooked a boost gauge into another one and the third is closed off.
Whoops, just checked the instructions and it does say the tube may have to be bent. I just unbolted it from the rubber clip circled on the right and let it hang down below the top bolt.
Cool, thanks for the pictures and the heads up on you worked around the upper coolant tube. I am guessing that Boost gauge did not come with the kit. Minus the few WOT pulls do you find your self looking at the boost gauge much? The reason I ask not sure if its worth it to loose a vent and put down the money. Especially since summer is approaching here in VA and we see 100% humidity on many of those late summer days. Do yo find the gauge useful?
You don't need the boost gauge. I like having it and I do look at it more than I thought I would. Procharger sells the gauge direct on their site if you want the branded one.
https://www.procharger.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=58
https://www.procharger.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=58
I would recommend getting a boost gauge installed just to be sure you are making the correct amount of boost and also you will be able to tell if you have any leaks or belt slippage. I know you went with the p1x so you should be fine with whatever supplied pulley they gave you, but when I ordered my procharger I went with the d1sc tuner kit. When I talked with procharger I said I wanted 8 lbs of boost and they gave me a 4.25" pulley. I didn't have a boost gauge installed when I was remote tuned by lund. He had no issues tuning the car but after I installed the boost gauge I found out I was making 13-14 PSI at redline which is too much to safely run on pump gas for the stock motor. Luckily it was only for a short time and I didn't grenade my motor. I called procharger and they gave me a 4.5" pulley which with my setup makes 11 lbs of boost at redline. That's the max most tuners recommend for a stock motor. Also not sure if you are tuning with a lund ngauge but if you are I would recommend getting the lund boost box instead of a boost gauge, that way you can see and datalog your boost through the ngauge. I have one and it works great. It's a nice tool to have.
Someone messed up when you ordered. I am running 9psi on a P1SC tuner kit with a 4.25" pulley. 4.25 on a d1sc is definitely to much for a stock bottom end.
So parts are trickling in. Do you guys think it would be ok to install the BAP even though the kit or Tune have not arrived? If I started the car up would it blow something up?
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The car would not run properly, wait until you have everything installed
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Don't do that. Wait for everything to come in and do the install all together. Not 100% sure but I believe the tune needs to be adjusted to the increased fuel pressure.
Absolutely the tune needs to be adjusted. Make sure you let your tuner know about the BAP before you start datalogging
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Ok thanks for the replys. Lund knows there is a BAP. I will just wait till I get all the parts and the tune before installing anything and starting it back up.
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