My block in my 03 cobra is gonna need to be bore .030 over. My question is.... will it still be able to hold the heat and pressure to make over 1000rwhp???
Question about my block
- Thread starter MysticCobra281
- Start date
Did you score a cylinder that bad or is that what the machine shop is saying?
Hello, the short answer is NO. We will go .005" over on those iron 2 bolts. In a lower power application .010" or .020" over is ok.(LOW POWER, LIKE STOCK or stock and a little bit more) We rate those blocks when properly prepped to 900 Fywheel HP and that is with a standard bore! You goals of 1000+RWHP would require a sleeved aluminum 3V if you are after a build with some kind of reliability/service life. Do you want to make a dyno # one or two times and scatter your parts or do you want to make pass after pass.
^ can you clarify why you like the 3v instead of the 4 valve for that application? Would it be for additional strength/ simplicity of the timing assembly? I would imagine a 3v setup would require heavily worked heads to flow enough volume for 1000+whp.
Please chime in with the reasoning of a 3v combo. Thank you.
Please chime in with the reasoning of a 3v combo. Thank you.
Pretty sure he is simply saying the 3V aluminum block which is from 2005-2010. That is the strongest 4.6 based block readily available. His comment has nothing to do with heads or valve train.
--Joe
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"Soap" is all over it. If you want to do a 4.6L based build you would start out with the strongest best designed modular block to start with which also happens to be the last one the factory designed. It is the foundation for all of our 1000+ Hp foundations. Not to mention the lighter block will help offset that larger aftermarket heavier blower to not negatively effect the handling of the car. Adding a properly set of worked over late "C" heads and the rest of the supporting equipment to complete the build.
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The 05+ is a great mill. I forgot they changed from the Windsor but re reading up on it just now refreshed my memory.
Admittedly I was thinking to my self what the hell would you want to run a 3v head for when c's or even done up b's blow them out of the water, I didn't want to seem rude though.
I had you guys build my 5.3 cammer with a set of fgt heads, and 9.3 compression. Everybody that worked on my build in town was blown away with the quality of your guys head machining and overal performance of the block.
Thanks for the great work, you guys were my go to on my build.
Admittedly I was thinking to my self what the hell would you want to run a 3v head for when c's or even done up b's blow them out of the water, I didn't want to seem rude though.
I had you guys build my 5.3 cammer with a set of fgt heads, and 9.3 compression. Everybody that worked on my build in town was blown away with the quality of your guys head machining and overal performance of the block.
Thanks for the great work, you guys were my go to on my build.
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we have done some pretty good power 3v builds but unless your going big turbo they are certainly cylinder head limited. We appreciate the kind words and that's a endorsement we will take! Our goal is to provide the community with knowledge and a source for good quality parts and services.
I concur that the Cobra Irons won't last at 1000hp. I learned this about a month ago just before my dyno day where I had plans to make 900hp on turbos.
Many people posted they were cracking cylinders at 600-700hp but these guys were running KB blowers which puts a lot more stress on the cranks and can build a lot more cylinder pressure at low RPM.
I was told that the Cobra iron blocks only have about 1/8" wall thickness to begin with so boring them out only makes them thinner.
For my build the overall consensus was that being a turbo car it would hold up to 900hp but it would be on borrowed time.
My TT 2V eventually made 902hp/820tq through the muffs and through a 4R70 but it's definitely on borrowed time at this level so I'm collecting parts to build a new short block.
As mentioned get a Teksid block or an Aviator block which have a lot more support around the cylinders for a lot more hp.
ks
Many people posted they were cracking cylinders at 600-700hp but these guys were running KB blowers which puts a lot more stress on the cranks and can build a lot more cylinder pressure at low RPM.
I was told that the Cobra iron blocks only have about 1/8" wall thickness to begin with so boring them out only makes them thinner.
For my build the overall consensus was that being a turbo car it would hold up to 900hp but it would be on borrowed time.
My TT 2V eventually made 902hp/820tq through the muffs and through a 4R70 but it's definitely on borrowed time at this level so I'm collecting parts to build a new short block.
As mentioned get a Teksid block or an Aviator block which have a lot more support around the cylinders for a lot more hp.
ks
That was over on mod fords, I'm in the same boat I have an 800rwhp turbo cobra, with an iron block, but every guy there with a cracked block all had one thing in common they were all beaten on pretty well the one guy said it lasted 4 years before it finally gave up the ghost with like 600 track passes. Almost every one of those cars was a track car.
I also thought the iron block was stronger then what it is, but apparently not. I though I was safe to 1000 but apparently not. I'm hoping things last at 800rwhp. I don't plan to turn it up past that.
I also thought the iron block was stronger then what it is, but apparently not. I though I was safe to 1000 but apparently not. I'm hoping things last at 800rwhp. I don't plan to turn it up past that.
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The '05 Aviator is the only one that may have the 3V/Aluminator block. For '03/'04 it was the "standard" WAP block like in the Mach1 or Marauder.
Everything there is to know:
http://www.terminator-cobra.com/castings.htm
Aluminator build from ModFords, but with a very conservative power level (only bored 0.002" over):
http://www.modularfords.com/threads/236857-Aluminator-Gibtec-Build
I'm asking cause a
Guy at svt said the iron 03 block was safe to 1200+rwhp all day but that seemed high. It's gonna be with a single 76mm turbo though not a blower. It's never gonna see the track but it'll be street raced a good bit
Guy at svt said the iron 03 block was safe to 1200+rwhp all day but that seemed high. It's gonna be with a single 76mm turbo though not a blower. It's never gonna see the track but it'll be street raced a good bit
Sorry, I mis-typed. I meant to say Aluminator Block not Aviator Block.
The Aluminators were OEM in a lot of different vehicles and are supposed to be beefier than the Teksids.
Thanks for catching it...
ks
How does the coyote block stack-up against the mod motor blocks? I've "heard" Ford had issues with the coyote in high hp blown applications but I have not heard any wide scale complaints regarding the integrity of that block. Can you shed any light on this?
Over on the S197 board I think the consensus is approximately 700hp is the limit for those.
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They commonly fail around the coolant jacket. You either need to sleeve or you can try to fly with one the jacket reinforcements which is just a piece of metal shoved into the jacket. It seems to happen on boosted cars with excessive cylinder pressure.
The standard o.e. liner Coyote's seem to hold up to the 1K flywheel #. Though some have had the water jacket cracking issue we have not been able to see enough consistency in this to blanket the entire engine line as of yet on the 11-14's. The 15+ seem to be a little stronger as the engineers seem to be making improvements as they go. A good rule of thumb if you plan on going up over 1k flywheel it's a good idea to plan block sleeving into your budget mod or Coyote.
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