Really don't want to have to roll rear fenders. Looking at going with HR sports or Race springs. 305 rear tire size with a 18x10. Can it happen? If not what's the best setup. Thanx.
Rear fender roll.
- Thread starter Dib14gt
- Start date
May I ask what wheels tires you're running. I'm also looking at new wheels/tires but do not want to roll my MC fenders.
I'm in the same boat as you. I don't want to roll the rear fenders and every good body shop has talked me out of it. They told me I would not be happy with the results with my caliber of car. My car is pretty much mint with 16k miles. Everyone seems split on it coming out ok or being a disaster on the forum. I currently have CCW classics 18x11's with 305 R888's. I'm lowered on H&R race springs with the iso's removed in the rear to balance the car with the front. It looks really good but I noticed some very slight rubbing at WOT when the car squats I'm assuming. I'm thinking about grinding the lip slightly or raise the car up a little more or get coil-overs all around or sell the wheels and get True-forged chicanes 18 x 10.5's with the sleeper offset to bring the wheel in slightly to eliminate the rubbing.
FWIW, I rolled my fenders today. I used the Eastwood tool, and it worked very well. The key is to heat the fender so the paint doesn't crack. When done properly, there won't be any damage and you can hardly tell the work was done.
I just watched a vid on that kit. In the vid it said don't use the kit on double thickness rear fenders and it only showed the guy roll the fronts.
What kind of gimmick is this? Obviously most everyone with a mustang is rolling fenders to clear a rear tire.
I'm guessing it's to avoid responsibility from improperly performed rolls.
Mg2v, did you have good results on the rears with this kit?
What kind of gimmick is this? Obviously most everyone with a mustang is rolling fenders to clear a rear tire.
I'm guessing it's to avoid responsibility from improperly performed rolls.
Mg2v, did you have good results on the rears with this kit?
Yes. The Eastwood roller did a great job. The rear fenders are definitely more difficult to roll than the fronts, but it's nothing the tool can't handle. Use a heat gun to get the paint nice and warm, and you should be fine.
I was told you can't do the rears without some body work. Rolling and pulling out the fender. Also you change the lineup between the rear bumper and quarter.
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I had a couple body shops say they won't the roll fenders. If it was that easy why do body shops turn the work down? I know they don't want to be held responsible for cracked paint but the way people talk about the ease of it you would think professionals could do it that much easier.
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That's probably why most shops won't do it. More of a hassle than it's worth. As with any modification, you proceed at your own risk. The way I see it, rolling the fenders should be a last resort. I wish I hadn't needed to roll mine, but I already sliced up one of the rear tires pretty bad, and I couldn't afford to let it happen again.
Its easily done without any damage whatsoever. I think you need to find a better body shop.
Don't laugh but I did mine with a rubber mallet and some patience . It took a while but my tires don't rub and unless you run your hand under the fender you'd never even know .
I have the Eastwood roller as well. I've rolled three Mustangs and a Charger fenders. No cracked paint yet. One then was my Mystichrome. Heat the paint and go slow.
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Can you come to wisconsin and do mine!
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It honestly depends more on the offset of the wheel. If the offset is too low, the 305 will rub.
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I'm bagged with 315's in the rear so I had to roll my fenders to prevent rubbing at times. I used the eastwood tool and like others said, just heat the paint and go slowly. A lot of the problems you hear about is most likely because they tried to roll it in one pass(they probably won't admit being that stupid though). I made many passes under my taped and heated fenders. It even removed a small ding I had on the driver's side for years. I think shops don't want to do it because the time it takes is not worth the expense and liability.
With 315's I can't fully drop the rear because it rubs where the rear bumper meets the 1/4 panel. This part cannot be rolled but unless you're trying to drop your car to the ground, it shouldn't be a problem.
With 315's I can't fully drop the rear because it rubs where the rear bumper meets the 1/4 panel. This part cannot be rolled but unless you're trying to drop your car to the ground, it shouldn't be a problem.
I rolled my fenders and it came out great. As stated above a few times, plenty of heat and a lot of patience is the key. It took me about three hours to do both fenders plus one hour prep and wrap up time. I think the time issue may be a problem with these shops, since most people would have to pay upwards of $300 to get it done right. Then there is also the liability issue, that a lot of shops don't want to deal with.
I had to roll mine. True forged mach 5's, 18x11. Only rubbed on passenger side under very hard acceleration.
It wasn't hard to roll them. It's just a slow process, take your time. I kept the heat on the fender between 115-130 degrees. I also have a Eastwood roller.
It wasn't hard to roll them. It's just a slow process, take your time. I kept the heat on the fender between 115-130 degrees. I also have a Eastwood roller.
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