S197 Auto build-Need advise for a buddy

[RaceFuel302]

Hey all,

Helping a friend of mine build a 2007 GT Auto for DD/drag duty. He's a police officer so obviously he doesn't have a ton of time to post, so I figured I would snoop around on his behalf.

He's just picked up a 2007 auto GT with 66,000 miles. It's bone stock, right down to the OE battery. He's looking to drag it, but also have it be a nice street car, so no crazy weight reduction, or pulling sways, etc. He's not looking to go FI due to the upfront cost involved and he likes NA.

He's hoping to be able to pull 12.5's @ 110+ on DR's..What should he grab and build to do so? I'd be able to help him if it were a Coyote car, but...

 

[Weather Man]

A good nitrous kit (and tune) with a 75 shot, LCA's and drag radials. Buddy has to do his part.

 

[ponys197]

Mine car is all NA - tune / CAI , driveshaft , torque converter , 3.73 gears , LCA's , drag shocks . UDP's , 2010 intake with delete plugs and I am close to that using email tunes. Going to tune my own to get it closer. Hoping to run 12.5's or better this coming spring. A good torque converter will be the best investment towards getting close to that 12.5

 

[MarcSpaz]

You want to give your buddy some real advice from someone who has been there... listen to me. First my credentials.

I professionally drag raced with an NA 2007 Mustang GT for all of 2007, 08 and 09. I did most of the work myself, leaving almost all of the tuning to the smart people.

I was one of only 7 people in the world who broke 400 RWHP with a stock NA 4.6L and Ford 3v heads. I was the only person who was not a shop owner/professional builder. The car had full interior, and with me in the car, it weighed in at 3890 lbs. On drag radials, I ran 12.14 @ 106 MPH.

That said... I spent well over $30k keeping the car running for 3 years. I had to do 3 engine rebuilds. I replaced the trans 5 times. I rebuilt the rear-end so many times that I lost count. I replaced 3 drive shafts. I replaced the whole suspension twice. If your friend does not have a healthy slush fund to afford a twin-screw... he doesn't have the money for a reliable, high power, NA street/drag car either.

He should just get a twin-screw and be happy with reliable 450-475 RWHP for $8,000-$10,000 and the occasional T&T or track rental with friends.

Now... if he wants a sick NA car that will make his vision blur from the car shaking at an idle at red lights, then let me know. I'll send you all the info you need.