Spec 3+ clutch causing cable failures?

Comp04svt

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So I'm looking for some input here. Maybe other people with a spec clutch, or other "heavy" pedal clutches have run into this.

So my clutch cable stretched last night coming to a stop and came off of the quadrant. About 5-6 years ago, I had to replace the cable, as it frayed up by the quadrant, and almost broke. Luckily I caught it that time before it broke and left me stranded. This time, it just broke with out warning or any symptoms. I jacked the car up and took a look. Everything looks good down at the trans. Cable is still attached and the fork looks fine. Even though its been 5-6 years since the last time the cable has been replaced, its only been 5,000 miles max as its only a weekend fun car. This is all on an OEM ford cable. Running a Fore adjuster/quadrant.

So, my thoughts are that possibly these "heavy" clutches, such as the spec 3+ I have, put some kind of extra stress on the cable causing premature failure. The spec clutch was in the car when I bought in 09 and was new at the time. I want to get into a DYAD centerforce, but I've been holding off because the spec is still in great shape. But I'm thinking that the RXT and DYAD may put less stress on the cable, and fix issues of premature failures?

I don't think the cable should have failed this soon personally, so I'm wondering if anyone has run into multiple OEM cable failures, and if the clutch itself could be the cause? I also found two different heat shielding products that Maximum Motorsports has on their site, has anyone used anything like that?

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Clutch-Cable-Insulator-1982-04-P504.aspx

And:

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Clutch-Cable-Heat-Shield-1979-2004-P505.aspx
 

hotcobra03

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I has issues with cable breaking.

I had 3 of them go in a short time.

Stock clutch..

My issues..

Pedal took 2 legs to push..hard to shift and slipping clutch at times

Replaced clutch think it was issue..

After Google search..I seen oiling cable before install..

I removed cable..wd40 to try.

Instantly pedal was easy to push. .

1 thing I didn't try before oiling cable was just push on fork to confirm easy full push
 

P49Y-CY

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even though a twin disc will definitely decrease the pressure on the cable (and your leg), it sounds like your problem is not the clutch, but the alignment of your quadrant.

it is very important that it is solidly perpendicular to your firewall and fw adjuster all the way through the range of motion. you usually have to use a combination of shims to achieve this. otherwise, the cable will fray and break at the quadrant end in short order. the cable also must be directly centered through the adjuster opening without touching the sides.

i recall that this was a somewhat common issue that folks were having back in the day. there are probably several threads with pics that address this issue in the terminator archive.

btw the name of the designer for these aftermarket pieces is "fiore", not "fore". fore is a company that made beautiful billet pieces such as rear end covers, fuel rails, etc.

best of luck with it!
 

Curt@injected

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Are you running an oem cable or the ford racing adjustable one? I know you said oem but just wanted to confirm. In my experience anything other than the oem cables have issues.
 

Comp04svt

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35940421854_6f8799d384_c.jpg


I appreciate the ideas! I don't believe the issue is a quadrant alignment issue. My first cable frayed up by the quadrant. With this cable, the collar pictured that rests against the adjuster separated and slid back toward the lower portion of the "splined" looking area. I didn't realize this until I got my new cable yesterday and went, oh that looks weird. Both cables are/were Ford OEM. I originally thought the cable just broke somewhere in-between the adjuster and bell housing, but I guess not.

I would go out on a limb and say the reason this happened is due to the how heavy the clutch is. I guess it could just be a defective part because I've never came across anything like this or read anything like this, but this cable has been in the car for 5-6 years so who knows.

I guess I could try to epoxy that piece back into position and put a worm clamp on the end for support, but I don't know if I trust that. I'll probably put a worm clamp on the end of the new cable for support to try and prevent this again. Then I'll save for a new clutch haha.
 

hotcobra03

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The cables I broke were all on plastic ends..about the same reason..

Only my 1st split cable caused by light melting the outer casing..

Heavy is 1 thing..being forced to move is another..

Have you tried to push fork manually. .
 

Comp04svt

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The cables I broke were all on plastic ends..about the same reason..

Only my 1st split cable caused by light melting the outer casing..

Heavy is 1 thing..being forced to move is another..

Have you tried to push fork manually. .

Well its good to know I'm not alone in this issue, you never hear of this failure with all the searching I've done, you are the only other person I've come across.

Yes, I did pry the fork to make sure everything was free. I didn't have any issues leading up to this either, just out of nowhere, snap and no pedal.
 

Comp04svt

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Well the new OEM cable is in, so the car is good for now. For how many years I don't know lol.

Couple of interesting things I thought I'd share though. The original cable that was in the car was OEM (don't know if it had been changed before I bought the car), the first one I put in was OEM, and now this one of course is OEM. After replacing the cable this time, the pedal effort was literally cut in half, and the engagement was a good bit higher than before. It was shocking to me how much the pedal effort changed for the better. The trans shifts 1000x better and a lot of the notchyness is gone. The other two cables were the same feel both times, stiff as hell.

I've had the trans out a few times in the past in between replacing the cables and I do this the same every time. I take the quadrant off, hook the cable on, then re install so I don't have to mess with the adjuster/re adjusting and all that. Engagement is just as it was before and after. So I found it weird that this time the engagement was different, along with the feel. There was a number on the side of the old cable resembling a part number (2R3V-7K553-AA), which was different than the part number I got (2R3Z-7535-AA). Thinking the old cable was wrong or something I had the dealer run the number on the old cable to make sure. Apparently it was an engineering number, and when entered in, it brings up the cable I have. So maybe Ford updated/revised the part over the last 5-6 years. Maybe the new cable is slightly longer, changing the engagement point, or had something done to make it operate smoother and easier. Who knows.

Just thought I'd update with that interesting info incase someone else runs into this in the future.
 

Rambro

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I'm on oem cable number 3 since I went with pro motion clutch, upr quad and adjuster. I've tried using washers to allign and all that didn't work. Now I use no washers, smoothed the sharp edges on the quad and lubed the cable and it's been fine since. Also, I hate getting under the dash and playing the washer game. Talk about a total pain in the summer heat lol
 

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