Stock -> Centerforce DYAD. My thoughts and the installation results.

[jchristena]

So, a couple of weeks ago I was asking for information on here about the Centerforce. Drivability, quietness, chatter and the ability to slip the clutch at low speeds were critical. I'm not making crazy power so holding power wasn't a big deal.

Impressions:
So, I've had it installed for about a week now. I only have a couple hundred miles on it but I can tell you that you'd never know the car doesn't have a stock clutch except for two key factors.
1. The clutch effort is MUCH lighter. You'd never know this was a performance clutch.
2. The clutch engagement is where it should be. No more engagement all the way to the top.

Everything is is perfect. Completely drivable with zero compromises that I can tell. No noise at idle...no on/off feeling...no chatter. Exactly what I wanted. I'm sure there are other good options, but this one doesn't disappoint at all. I'm pretty picky about keeping nvh and drivability at stock levels and I'm glad I made the choice that I did.

The installation:
I did this myself, in my garage on jack stands. It's time consuming but it is totally doable. Just follow the Ford service manual doc step by step and it's easy(and I did NOT have a transmission jack). These are the only real issues.
1. The service manual says to take the bolts out of the rear of the k-member and then loosen the 4 front k-member nuts. The idea here is that the rear of the engine/trans assembly will lower down to such a point that you can get the transmission out. Let me tell you, if you don't lower it down enough, there is NOT enough room in the trans tunnel to pull it back far enough to get it out. It doesn't matter how much you rotate the damn thing...there isn't enough room. To get it to clear, you'd have to loose the front k-member bolts to such a point where only a few threads of the nuts would be engaged. I was not comfortable doing this. After watching a video on youtube, you can see that other people have trouble getting that last inch. The input shaft will just not clear that finger on the pressure plate and it only lacks half an inch or so. My buddy took a pry bar, and compressed that finger just enough to let the input shaft clear. After that, it slid right down. The good thing is that the stock clutch assembly is very tall. The Centerforce is a good 1-1.5 inches shorter. So putting the trans back up in the car is a breeze...it just slides right in.
2. I had the front wheels on ramps and the rear supported by jack stands. It is almost impossible to get the k-member to line back up with the weigh on the suspension. Set the car on 4 jack stands(on the body) and the k-member will slip right back to where it should be.

 

[1st usa car]

Thank you for the last thread and update. I was thinking my only option was the RXT clutch but I tend to slip my clutch at low speeds too. I really think this will be the better option for me too. Did you need to do any adjustments to the clutch? any shims? How was the break-in?

 

[WVTrakPak]

Great info, this will be my route when that time comes.

 

[Mojo88]

I have RXT and it takes a little finesse to get smooth takeoffs......

 

[jchristena]

Thank you for the last thread and update. I was thinking my only option was the RXT clutch but I tend to slip my clutch at low speeds too. I really think this will be the better option for me too. Did you need to do any adjustments to the clutch? any shims? How was the break-in?

Centerforce provides a TO bearing shim to replace the factory version. I didn't adjust ANYTHING...nor was there any real means to do so. It was basically perfect out of the box.

I'm still in the breakin period. But its pretty smooth right out of the gate. To give you an idea, I put it back together and took it out for a test drive. I realized I left the crossmember bolts un-torqued. They were tight, but I'm OCD about using a torque wrench. I drove the car back up on the ramps which obviously takes finesse and slipping the clutch. With only 5 miles on the clutch, it was smooth even doing that. So I can guess that it will only get smoother.

 

[1st usa car]

awesome - thanks again --

 

[Sielmo]

So, a couple of weeks ago I was asking for information on here about the Centerforce. Drivability, quietness, chatter and the ability to slip the clutch at low speeds were critical. I'm not making crazy power so holding power wasn't a big deal.

Impressions:
So, I've had it installed for about a week now. I only have a couple hundred miles on it but I can tell you that you'd never know the car doesn't have a stock clutch except for two key factors.
1. The clutch effort is MUCH lighter. You'd never know this was a performance clutch.
2. The clutch engagement is where it should be. No more engagement all the way to the top.

Everything is is perfect. Completely drivable with zero compromises that I can tell. No noise at idle...no on/off feeling...no chatter. Exactly what I wanted. I'm sure there are other good options, but this one doesn't disappoint at all. I'm pretty picky about keeping nvh and drivability at stock levels and I'm glad I made the choice that I did.

The installation:
I did this myself, in my garage on jack stands. It's time consuming but it is totally doable. Just follow the Ford service manual doc step by step and it's easy(and I did NOT have a transmission jack). These are the only real issues.
1. The service manual says to take the bolts out of the rear of the k-member and then loosen the 4 front k-member nuts. The idea here is that the rear of the engine/trans assembly will lower down to such a point that you can get the transmission out. Let me tell you, if you don't lower it down enough, there is NOT enough room in the trans tunnel to pull it back far enough to get it out. It doesn't matter how much you rotate the damn thing...there isn't enough room. To get it to clear, you'd have to loose the front k-member bolts to such a point where only a few threads of the nuts would be engaged. I was not comfortable doing this. After watching a video on youtube, you can see that other people have trouble getting that last inch. The input shaft will just not clear that finger on the pressure plate and it only lacks half an inch or so. My buddy took a pry bar, and compressed that finger just enough to let the input shaft clear. After that, it slid right down. The good thing is that the stock clutch assembly is very tall. The Centerforce is a good 1-1.5 inches shorter. So putting the trans back up in the car is a breeze...it just slides right in.
2. I had the front wheels on ramps and the rear supported by jack stands. It is almost impossible to get the k-member to line back up with the weigh on the suspension. Set the car on 4 jack stands(on the body) and the k-member will slip right back to where it should be.

I really like mine as well. I had VERY minimal chatter and it was a tad grabby at first but all that's gone after the break in period... very happy and agree with your description.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[jchristena]

I really like mine as well. I had VERY minimal chatter and it was a tad grabby at first but all that's gone after the break in period... very happy and agree with your description.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I'd say that is pretty consistent with my experience so far. I notice just a tiny bit of NVH as the revs climb. I really can't tell if I'm being over paranoid or there was just a bit of harshness introduced. I did install the MGW at the same time so maybe all that changing at once is what I'm noticing. Nothing I'd EVER notice if I hadn't drive the car before the change.

 

[ponyboy96]

Good to know. I've got the rxt and it chatters on take off,chatters at 1500rpms when cruising in low gear, stiffer than stock by a lot and acts like an on/off switch. If/when I kill this, I'll do the centerforce next time.

 

[tktlwyr]

Good to know. I've got the rxt and it chatters on take off,chatters at 1500rpms when cruising in low gear, stiffer than stock by a lot and acts like an on/off switch. If/when I kill this, I'll do the centerforce next time.

Since you've got a 2010, I'm curious as to what RXT you're running? The '07-'09 version or the '10-'14 sprung hub version?

I've been thru 2 of the '10-'14 sprung hub clutches in 30,000 miles. It was stiff as hell. Both chattered but the first one was obnoxious. The second one tended to creep a lot, too, and stopped releasing as it was being pulled onto the dyno last week. Car is a 95,000 mile daily driver and never been to the track. I don't abuse the car. Break in procedure was normal.

I've decided to go with the '07-'09 version with the lightened steel flywheel this time and changing the slave cylinder to the earlier style, as I've seen almost nothing negative about it.

 

[barspen]

Good to know. I've got the rxt and it chatters on take off,chatters at 1500rpms when cruising in low gear, stiffer than stock by a lot and acts like an on/off switch. If/when I kill this, I'll do the centerforce next time.

This has been my experience with the RXT also.

Not a huge fan of the stiff, 'grabby' feeling and chatter for a DD. But it is fantastic at the track.

OP, thanks for the write up. Going to consider the Centerforce next time around. Seems like a good choice based on my application and power.

 

[Sielmo]

I'd say that is pretty consistent with my experience so far. I notice just a tiny bit of NVH as the revs climb. I really can't tell if I'm being over paranoid or there was just a bit of harshness introduced. I did install the MGW at the same time so maybe all that changing at once is what I'm noticing. Nothing I'd EVER notice if I hadn't drive the car before the change.

The MGW might have something to do with it. I did that upgrade before and noticed a tad more feedback.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[jchristena]

Thought I would provide a small update here.

I have about 400 miles on the clutch now. Chatter has increased substantially but is not terrible. With some finesse, you can move the car without chatter but it seems like you have to give it more revs than you'd like. If you are a fan of inching forward in traffic using only the clutch w/o throttle, you'll get chatter. It may be that there is still some break in to go but if you give it more revs than you'd like to avoid the chatter, you get a bit of burning clutch smell. It is very possible that all of this will smooth out with a few hundred more miles. That is what every forum(regardless of car or clutch type) seems to say. Miles will fix it.

Another small thing is the throwout bearing seems to stick when cold. For example, everything is fine and you pull into the garage. The next morning, you step on the clutch, start the car and ease the clutch out. It starts moving the car immediately...not at the regular pressure point. If you cycle the clutch before trying to move the car, everything is fine. Just a glitch...nothing serious at this point. Likely just my luck here and hopefully that doesn't get worse. There is zero creep and no burning clutch smell in the scenario where the engine is running and the clutch is engaged.

My biggest complaint here has been Centerforce tech support. I have called them a couple of times basically letting them know what I am seeing and asking if it is normal. Asking if this ~should~ go away with miles. Asking if they have seen this before or if I'm being too picky? I'm not asking for a diagnosis and certainly not asking them to fix a clutch problem over the phone. I'm just asking for some advice and either some peace of mind...or the expectation that I'll need to pull the clutch out. Every time they act like I am bothering them. I feel like the guy on the other end of the phone is reading a book and giving me about 10% of his attention. I really haven't gotten anything other than the suggestion that I am welcome to pull it out and send it in for them to take a look.

In the end, I'll give it some more miles... At that point if I still smell burning, I'll pull it out and send it in. If there is a little chatter I'll learn to live with it I supposed. Unfortunately, the MAIN reason I chose the DYAD was that it was supposed to give stock like engagement without noise or chatter. I really have no other complaints at all once the car is moving. No clutch noise, nice pedal feel and good engagement point. Once you're moving, you'd never know the car isn't stock.

 

[gimmie11s]

Great info and thanks for updating.. keep it coming!

Ill be replacing my factory clutch soon..

 

[RBB]

That pretty much sums up my experience with the Dyad, minus the part about Centerforce's customer service....never dealt with them.

One thing to add....has anyone ever pulled their trans and taken a look at their Dyad after getting it broken in and getting some hard miles on it? Just pulled my engine for a swap a few weeks ago and I was surprised by what we found. I've had the clutch in for a little over a year, and have about 2K miles on it and maybe 40 passes or so at the track.

There were a couple little hotspots, but nothing major or unexpected there. What was surprising was the amount of dust in the trans. There was a ton of it....don't know if that's normal for the organic material used in it's construction and typical of break in, but my buddy and I were surprised there was so much....looked like about 10 years worth.

 

[jchristena]

That pretty much sums up my experience with the Dyad, minus the part about Centerforce's customer service....never dealt with them.

Your chatter ever go away or did you just learn to deal with it?

 

[RBB]

Your chatter ever go away or did you just learn to deal with it?

Yeah, for the most part, it's much better than when it was brand new. I do have to give it a few more revs to take off smoothly, though, or it will chatter. It definitely doesn't slip as nicely as the stock clutch did.

 

[jchristena]

Yeah, for the most part, it's much better than when it was brand new. I do have to give it a few more revs to take off smoothly, though, or it will chatter. It definitely doesn't slip as nicely as the stock clutch did.

Ehh, that's disappointing..but at least it might get a little better than it is now. Thanks for the info.

 

[merkyworks]

Another small thing is the throwout bearing seems to stick when cold. For example, everything is fine and you pull into the garage. The next morning, you step on the clutch, start the car and ease the clutch out. It starts moving the car immediately...not at the regular pressure point. If you cycle the clutch before trying to move the car, everything is fine.

You likely still have some air that's still bleeding out of the system from the install. The air is compressing and no allowing the throwout bearing to travel as much so the clutch engages quicker, since pumping the clutch pedal is the way you bleed the system it makes since this fixes your issue.

 

[1st usa car]

please please keep the updates coming -- I put this clutch on the top of my list.