SVTFocus Noob's Engine build

[SVTFocus Noob]

Well guys I blew my engine's head gasket on PS from overheating one too many times. I've had the block checked out and it came back good along with the crank. I still need to take the stripped down CYL heads back to get them checked out. From the research I've done Port and Polish is a waste of money on these Cyl heads correct? Basically I'm looking for other's input and advice on the situation. My big question is, seeing these engines can throw down 1000whp with no internal engine mods, and money IS an issue. Is it safe and okay to re install stock pistons and rods. The only way I'd be able to re ring the OEMs is to get ahold of total seal and see if they can't do something for me. The engine had 100K right before blowing a head gasket, just something to consider I guess. I have a ported Eaton, pullies and plan to run E85 just need a fuel hat and the fuel system is ready to be swapped out so really only looking at making 600 to the wheels with all mods installed. I can get pics of it all too. But ultimately the question remains. Reuse pistons or no? and if not why?



Jake

 

[Nightmare302]

Replace the pistons. Factory pistons are great for oem but you can get much better options for not a lot of cash.

 

[SVTFocus Noob]

Thank you for the input. I went ahead and got ahold of Total seal and I can get a set of rings for $283 vs spending $700++ on new pistons. I think for basic bolt on upgrades stock pistons with new rings will hold. When I have a better income I can always take the engine back apart. Unfortunately the Marines pays me the same as a 17 yr old kid at McDonalds lol. So it'll have to be a budget build until I'm making more money.



Jake

 

[Nightmare302]

The factory piston setup is significantly weaker than an aftermarket casting. There is a reason when cobra motors fail it's the pistons that fail. I understand budget concerns but 300 bucks for a set of rings over 700 for rings pistons and wrist pins seems silly. I would talk to the machine shop doing the work before you totally decide anyway. You may need more than a hone and this will need oversized pistons not factory bore.

Best of luck with whatever option you pursue.

 

[Quick Strike]

With 100 K on the engine, there is likely a taper or wear in the cylinders that will require a bore anyway. Our ring gaps and cylinders had tight clearances from the factory. This increases the probability of scoring the pistons or ring butting with increased horsepower related to the rapid expansion of these parts relative to the cylinders. Greater horsepower creates more rapid heating, and pistons and rings expand even faster with more rapid heating. This would be a good time to install pistons with better expansion control and set the clearances for the 600 RWHP (or more) you will be seeing instead of the 400 flywheel HP the factory engine intended.

 

[MalcolmV8]

I would replace the pistons as the factory block, rods and crank and all extremely stout. The factory pistons not so much. However I understand budget and if that's your only choice then to answer your question you need to visit your machine shop.
Have them go over your bores carefully with a bore gauge and also measure all the pistons. If everything is within tolerances then a light hone for the new rings to seat and a new set of rings and you're back in business.

Your car has made it 100k miles so back to back highway pulls are probably not an issue but be aware of the issue. The factory has very tight piston to wall clearances and repeated back to back pulls causes the pistons to swell and with no where to go they scuff the cylinder walls and damage your engine. I discovered this in the early years of these cars the hard way. So one huge advantage of aftermarket pistons is going to be the additional clearance they are designed for and the ability to make lots of HP and even back to back pulls without the engine hurting itself.

Malcolm

 

[SVTFocus Noob]

Thank you everyone,

Malcom, I've already had engine taken to machine shop, and all checked out good, they said new rings and bearings and throw it back together. However they have not looked at Cyl heads completely because I left the cams in. So still have to wait on that. I don't do too many back to back highway pulls either, so I feel like if I continue to baby it and enjoy WOT pulls here and there I'll be okay.

Jake

 

[onefastcar]

I have a set of brand new wisco piston's forsale if you want

 

[SVTFocus Noob]

What kind how much? I'm just finishing up my SVTF build and working out a timing code and then I'll be tuning it. Once its 100% good I'll have money again and not getting sucked into this project.

Jake

 

[SVTFocus Noob]

Sorry didn't see you mentioned the brand. Yea no thank you.

Jake

 

[Nightmare302]

Wiseco is the most robust off the shelf piston made fwiw.

 

[SVTFocus Noob]

Sorry didn't mean to offend just from what I've read on them on here ppl aren't big fans. But finally getting out of the marine corps and will be building the engine this summer! Going to do like you all recommend and do pistons it'll be worth it in the end. I was looking at diamond, CP or Gibtec. Does anyone disagree or suggest something better? I obviously want to budget but that doesn't mean I want to be cheap either. Thanks for all the advice so far I'll end up posting pics of progress here too when the time comes.

Jake

 

[MalcolmV8]

I was looking at diamond, CP or Gibtec. Does anyone disagree or suggest something better?

I've used all of those and more. Never had a problem with any name brand piston. They all work as advertised. I used to get the cheapest but learned the hard way customer service is way more important than price when you have a problem and need to get some service. That's with ordering custom pistons, make sure you pick one that answers their phone and is willing to work with you. You'd be surprised how some of them treat you if you're not a high volume shop buying huge quantities from them.

 

[SVTFocus Noob]

Okay so block is dropped off at machinist and he will have an answer if I should bore it out for .020 over or if the stock bore is fine. I'll be going with -19cc dish Diamond pistons for the build once he get's those in his hand we can get it all balanced as well. Siting around now waiting on ARP 2000 head studs. Once I get it all back I'll be spamming this thread with pictures as I go, I feel it'll help insure proper install of anything that is possible to fudge up. Thanks for all the help so far gents!


Jake

 

[gt347mustang]

Stock pistons are just fine if you hone out the cylinders a thou or two.

The problem is the ptw clearance is a little tight from the factory. Opening that up a bit will allow for the piston to expand more.

 

[badcobra]

If you are going to run e85, why are you going with such a big dish and low compression? Go to a flat top piston which will put you around 10.5:1 compression. I'd bore the block the minimum amount instead of going right to .020" over also. I have a hookup for Gibtec which come with the pin size and material you need as well as total seal rings for about the same price as those off the shelf Diamonds.

 

[MalcolmV8]

I have a hookup for Gibtec

Really? where can we get Gibtec pistons for cheaper?

 

[badcobra]

Really? where can we get Gibtec pistons for cheaper?

Call my friend Dennis Johnson from Denny's Racing Engines. He's right in Denver where they are located and direct with them. Tell him Tony sent you. 303-902-6701

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

 

[MalcolmV8]

Call my friend Dennis Johnson from Denny's Racing Engines. He's right in Denver where they are located and direct with them. Tell him Tony sent you. 303-902-6701

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

Thanks, be good to know for the next set. I just called Gibtec directly and ordered. Be nice to get a bit of a discount.

 

[badcobra]

Thanks, be good to know for the next set. I just called Gibtec directly and ordered. Be nice to get a bit of a discount.

What did you pay? If you don't want to share online no biggie!

A typical set from Denny is running right around $1200 with AP steel top, napier 2nd, tool steel pins, and coated top and skirt.