After looking at about 10-15 different threads about deleting the EGR and finally figuring everything out, I decided to put together this "EGR Delete" How To so the next guy doesn't have to do as much research. All this is good for is cleaning up your engine compartment and getting the birds nest off the side of the blower. It will not improve or degrade performance. You will also need to have your EGR turned off in your tune to prevent codes from being thrown. ________________________________________________________________ Step 1: Remove the EGR tube from the EGR Valve to the header, plug the header with a cap and get a block off plate for the blower. Block off plate and header tube cap can be purchased from just about any of the reputable performance parts stores (Lethal Performance, D'Agostino Racing, Tousley Ford etc...) Here is the header tube cap. Here is the EGR Block Off Plate. Step 2: Remove the EGR Valve off the back of the blower, EGR transducer, Boost Dump Valve, and the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid. Also get rid of the black bracket bolted to the side of the blower. You can either tuck the electrical connectors associated with these modules or snip them off and save the connectors if you ever want/need to reinstall everything. Here is all the stuff you end up with. Step 3: Now you will reuse and modify the factory vaccum and boost lines you pulled off or you can buy new lines at any parts store along with the rubber fittings. I was able to modify most of my lines. How to route the new boost and vacuum lines for Whipple: How to route the new boost and vacuum lines for Eaton: 1) The bottom port, (Boost Port), on the Whipple/Eaton goes to the top port on the Boost Bypass Accuator Valve, the FRPS, and boost gauge. I ran a brass "T" fitting from the lower port, then a line from the top port on the Boost Bypass Accuator Valve to on side of the "T" fitting. Then I used the OEM connection that came of the lower port (rubber fitting with two red vacuum lines) and plugged it into the other side of the "T" fitting. One line goes to the FRPS and the other to the OEM boost line or your aftermarket boost gauge. 2) The bottom port on the Boost Bypass Accuator Valve goes to the air intake so it is filtered. (Some leave it open and vented to the atmosphere.) 3) From the top vacuum port off the back of the Whipple/Eaton, I reduced it to a smaller vacuum line and hooked it up to the OEM "Y" vacuum splitter near the passenger fender. On the passenger side there are two vaccum lines that go to this "Y" fitting. One comes out from behind the passenger side strut tower (charcoal canister) another comes out from the firewall where the bottom heater hose plumbs through and goes to your air conditioning vent vacuum system. 4) The bottom vacuum port with the 90 degree fitting (Evap Emissions Port) goes into the passenger fender to the Evaporative Emissions Control System (EECS). This hose is OEM on Eatons (connected to the plenum on the Eaton) and is reused on Whipple/KB installs. Do not delete. It is PCM controlled and will cause problems if removed. Info about the EECS: The Evaporative Emissions Control System (EECS) is designed to trap and store fuel vapors that evaportate from the fuel tank, throttle body and intake mainfold during non-operation or idling, store them in the charcoal canister and then route into the combustion chamber to be burned during engine operation. The EECS consists of a charcoal filled canister and the lines connecting the canister to the fuel tank, canister purge regulator valve, ported vacuum and intake manifold vacuum. Fuel vapors are transferred from the fuel tank, throttle body and intake manifold to a canister where they are stored when the engine is not operating. When the engine is running, the fuel vapors are purged from the canister by a purge control solenoid which is PCM controlled and consumed in the normal combustion process. 5) Manifold vent line stays the same and gets hooked up to your PCV valve via your oil seperator (if you have one). These instructions also satisfy the "Boost Drop Off" issue seen by those of us running over 17lbs of boost. See the following thread: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/engine-tuning-214/505705-boost-loss-whipple-help.html I hope this helps everyone out.