The heat exchanger in the rear did very little on the street. The VW radiator made a difference in all conditions. I am only using the Meizere pump with the h/e/s in a series. The sensors are in the stock locations.
Tracking an 03
- Thread starter iismet
- Start date
The heat exchanger in the rear did very little on the street. The VW radiator made a difference in all conditions. I am only using the Meizere pump with the h/e/s in a series. The sensors are in the stock locations.
What is the highest IAT2 temps that you saw with your setup? Thanks
Since no one else has said it; flush the cooling system, flush it really well. This has really helped mine. All cooling is stock, and it made a huge difference. Also remember, make sure you don't add any more antifreeze than necessary. I think we need right at 50/50. Antifreeze is needed for corrosion protection, but is not really good at extracting heat. Although I have not done it, since I have not had issues since the flush and fill, you could run 60% or more water just for the track, then get back to 50/50 for normal use. I also added water wetter to reduce the surface tension of the coolant mix, which should help with heat extraction. This goes for the supercharger coolant as well. I tried this route first to avoid buying new parts that may not be needed.
And, definately remove the hood inserts from the vents, pulling the hood insulated cover also should help.
And, definately remove the hood inserts from the vents, pulling the hood insulated cover also should help.
I run 30/70 anti freeze. You still have corrosion and below 0 protection. 50/50 is too much and like you said it's extract as much heat.
there's a reason we race n/a. I don't have a single friend with a term that doesn't have these heat issues. good luck
I OTracked my '03 with a 2.76 pulley at Sebring this past weekend (was my second weekend doing so). RB properly stated to re-install my stock pulley to keep the IAT2 down which is the proper thing to do but I am a little lazy.
My engine temps got as high as 218* (with the heater on) and the IAT2 got up 174*. I do have an aftermarket heat exchanger. The detonation sensors never did trigger so I let her eat but I was running half to 3/4 throttle down the back stretch.
My question is are there any of you who track your Terminator with the stock pulley and what is the highest IAT2 temps that you saw. Thanks
My engine temps got as high as 218* (with the heater on) and the IAT2 got up 174*. I do have an aftermarket heat exchanger. The detonation sensors never did trigger so I let her eat but I was running half to 3/4 throttle down the back stretch.
My question is are there any of you who track your Terminator with the stock pulley and what is the highest IAT2 temps that you saw. Thanks
There are three of us with modded terminators that do not have any heat issues. They all run my hood design.
RB remind me where the link is to see your design if you don't mind. I saw a 04 I believe Terminator at Sebring and his hood looked like something I have seen here. Seems like a common sense modification to have a heat extractor hood on these cars.
Yep, that's the one. I took a few pics but never did NOT get to meet owner. That heat extractor hood looks very functional. That was a beatutiful car and it sounded awesome.
I just saw your video... please post more about your setup. What are you using for radiators/heat exchangers? What brake/pad combo? Hightest eng air IAT2 temps? Timing? Where can i get one of the hoods? I'm not looking to run the speeds that you guys are but I would like to be able to use more motor withoug worrying about... boom. I was 3/4 throttle in 4th then 1/2 throttle in 5th going down the back straight, monitoring the boost.
Would love to hear more about that nice car of yours. Thanks
I just saw your video... please post more about your setup. What are you using for radiators/heat exchangers? What brake/pad combo? Hightest eng air IAT2 temps? Timing? Where can i get one of the hoods? I'm not looking to run the speeds that you guys are but I would like to be able to use more motor withoug worrying about... boom. I was 3/4 throttle in 4th then 1/2 throttle in 5th going down the back straight, monitoring the boost.
Would love to hear more about that nice car of yours. Thanks
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I have been wanting to follow up on this thread for a while. It is raining at Daytona so -
We ran the car seven times in 2013. During this span
Deleted
Radio
Air Bags
Speakers
Rear Seats
Air Conditioner
PCV
Swaps
AFCO Heat Exchanger
Steering Fluid Cooler
Solid Steering Shaft
Wilwood 6 piston front
Wilwood 4 piston Rear
Corbeau GTS seats
RPF1 Wheels
JLT Cold Air
SCT Tune
Bassini X pipe
Borla Cat Back
Steering Wheel
10-30 Racing Oil
Breathers
Reische Thermostat
Added
Shift Light
Aeroforce Gages
Boxed Radiator
Boxed Cold Air
Wapped Exhaust
Cat Shields
Switch to control HE Fans
Cooling - The last time we ran the car was in October. An HPDE event and two of us ran. I ran one session and my friend ran the other. I would pull into the paddock get out of the car and my friend would climb in and go right back out. It was 72 degrees ambient. We ran 11 sessions between us. I ran 6100 rpm shift points and used 2,3,4,5. My friend ran 6100 rpm shift points and used 3,4. We did not over heat the car all day so major improvement here.
Brakes - We never had enough brake with the stock setup. Not bad but nothing great. The first thing we did was swap 6 pistons into the front. Modulation was greatly improved, but I still kept cooking the front rotors. After talking to a couple of shops we decided to get rid of the floaters on the back and put in some 4 pistons. The thought being the rears were over heating leaving the fronts doing all of the work which in turn cooked them. This was a very good upgrade. The last time I ran I was hitting North of 130 on the front straight and the Wilwoods hauled it down very comfortably and very predictably all day long. I do not prescribe to run your stock brakes - they are just adequate for track work (if that) and will limit your speed. That said - like has been said so many times, the multi piston setups are a complete waste of money for a street setup. Anyone that could use them should be jailed.
Tune - We swapped the exhaust, added cold air, and tune at the same time. I have no idea what it makes (+40?), but I was red lining 4th on the front straight and could not get to the braking zone without using 5th. Prior to the tune I ran the front straight in 4th. Before the tune we could hammer the throttle out of turn 4 and it would easily 4 wheel drift to the outside. After the tune I never hammered the throttle all day - just did not feel like a good idea. I am still running the stock pulley. We had to add gas every 2 sessions.
Weight - the car weighs at 3480 with most off of the back. I am adding a 4 point bar with diagonal so we can get some belts to hold us in. This should help to add a little something back, but I am counting on the spoiler.
Handling - Some of the looseness out of turn 4 may be because of weight reduction on the back. I purchased a junk trunk lid and had it finished with an 8" adjustable spoiler so I am hoping to gain some down force over the rear wheels. This could be a great benefit at turn 10 as I could possibly reduce braking and get thru a little faster.
We are working on attaching a splitter which I hope will let me get thru turn 9 with full throttle. 9 is slightly off camber and the car wants to push at the apex. I always have to lift - very frustrating - it limits the back straight speed which leaves me braking and downshifting to 3rd going into 10. I over rev on the down shift too often. I am hoping to carry more speed to and thru 10 delaying the down shift until 11.
Speed - The shift light makes a huge difference. I set it for 6100 and just drive the light. It sure makes it easier.
After all of the changes the car drives quit a bit looser and faster.
Changes for this year
Belts
Roll Bar
Spoiler
Splitter
Skirting
Box rear bumper
Sheet some of bottom
Stiffer Springs and Shocks
Diff Cooler
2 new tracks
We start running again next month - hope we get to run it in the rain. I got to do it once last year and it was a blast. Looking forward to a great year. Running on the East side of the mountains will tax the cooling system, but compared to where I started I am encouraged.
Driving a Cobra on a race track - priceless
We ran the car seven times in 2013. During this span
Deleted
Radio
Air Bags
Speakers
Rear Seats
Air Conditioner
PCV
Swaps
AFCO Heat Exchanger
Steering Fluid Cooler
Solid Steering Shaft
Wilwood 6 piston front
Wilwood 4 piston Rear
Corbeau GTS seats
RPF1 Wheels
JLT Cold Air
SCT Tune
Bassini X pipe
Borla Cat Back
Steering Wheel
10-30 Racing Oil
Breathers
Reische Thermostat
Added
Shift Light
Aeroforce Gages
Boxed Radiator
Boxed Cold Air
Wapped Exhaust
Cat Shields
Switch to control HE Fans
Cooling - The last time we ran the car was in October. An HPDE event and two of us ran. I ran one session and my friend ran the other. I would pull into the paddock get out of the car and my friend would climb in and go right back out. It was 72 degrees ambient. We ran 11 sessions between us. I ran 6100 rpm shift points and used 2,3,4,5. My friend ran 6100 rpm shift points and used 3,4. We did not over heat the car all day so major improvement here.
Brakes - We never had enough brake with the stock setup. Not bad but nothing great. The first thing we did was swap 6 pistons into the front. Modulation was greatly improved, but I still kept cooking the front rotors. After talking to a couple of shops we decided to get rid of the floaters on the back and put in some 4 pistons. The thought being the rears were over heating leaving the fronts doing all of the work which in turn cooked them. This was a very good upgrade. The last time I ran I was hitting North of 130 on the front straight and the Wilwoods hauled it down very comfortably and very predictably all day long. I do not prescribe to run your stock brakes - they are just adequate for track work (if that) and will limit your speed. That said - like has been said so many times, the multi piston setups are a complete waste of money for a street setup. Anyone that could use them should be jailed.
Tune - We swapped the exhaust, added cold air, and tune at the same time. I have no idea what it makes (+40?), but I was red lining 4th on the front straight and could not get to the braking zone without using 5th. Prior to the tune I ran the front straight in 4th. Before the tune we could hammer the throttle out of turn 4 and it would easily 4 wheel drift to the outside. After the tune I never hammered the throttle all day - just did not feel like a good idea. I am still running the stock pulley. We had to add gas every 2 sessions.
Weight - the car weighs at 3480 with most off of the back. I am adding a 4 point bar with diagonal so we can get some belts to hold us in. This should help to add a little something back, but I am counting on the spoiler.
Handling - Some of the looseness out of turn 4 may be because of weight reduction on the back. I purchased a junk trunk lid and had it finished with an 8" adjustable spoiler so I am hoping to gain some down force over the rear wheels. This could be a great benefit at turn 10 as I could possibly reduce braking and get thru a little faster.
We are working on attaching a splitter which I hope will let me get thru turn 9 with full throttle. 9 is slightly off camber and the car wants to push at the apex. I always have to lift - very frustrating - it limits the back straight speed which leaves me braking and downshifting to 3rd going into 10. I over rev on the down shift too often. I am hoping to carry more speed to and thru 10 delaying the down shift until 11.
Speed - The shift light makes a huge difference. I set it for 6100 and just drive the light. It sure makes it easier.
After all of the changes the car drives quit a bit looser and faster.
Changes for this year
Belts
Roll Bar
Spoiler
Splitter
Skirting
Box rear bumper
Sheet some of bottom
Stiffer Springs and Shocks
Diff Cooler
2 new tracks
We start running again next month - hope we get to run it in the rain. I got to do it once last year and it was a blast. Looking forward to a great year. Running on the East side of the mountains will tax the cooling system, but compared to where I started I am encouraged.
Driving a Cobra on a race track - priceless
By far the best thing I did for cooling was removing the factory oil cooler (or coolant heater, as I like to call it) and installing a remote air-to-oil cooler. The oil can be incredibly hot in these cars when run hard, and the factory oil cooler does nothing more than crank heat into your coolant system at the track. Works great for the street though!
Any more pics and details on the setup? Thanks!
On the remote - where did you mount the heat exchanger? Do you run an auxiliary fan?
x-chr
I'll have to get you guys pictures. I'll probably make a thread and link it here! But basically I fit the biggest Mocal oil cooler that I could fit in the fender well, behind the fog light on the driver's side. I also mounted the oil filter up on the front bumper support, and a 180 degree oil thermostat next to the cooler. When I go to the track, I just remove the fog light to get airflow to it. The fender liner is louvered behind the cooler, in front of the wheel for air to exit. I bought a fan and temperature switch, but it's not installed yet. I wanted to see how effective it was without it first. Dropped oil temps buy 40 degrees! Coolant temps were about 20 degrees cooler! Next time I go I'll try it with the fan.
Here's my setup with lots of pictures: http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...remote-air-oil-cooler-setup.html#post13977612
So you actually have data from the track before and afterwards? What were the ambient, engine and oil temps before and afterwards? The thread is about open tracking an 03 Cobra so i can assume those were temp reduction on the track because street driving will not give you any data for the track.
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Yes, ambient temps were around 75 degrees. Before the oil cooler setup, I would hit limp mode after about 6-8 minutes. Coolant temp at the outlet of the engine was hitting 240 according to my speedhut gauge (my sct livelink datalogging was reading 236-238). Oil temps hit 260+. After the oil cooler: same track temp, maybe a few degrees cooler, and my coolant gauge never went above 220 (again, at the coolant crossover), and oil temps were also at 220 (coming out of the engine before the filter and cooler). This was after about 12 minutes of track time, temps stabilized at the above numbers well before the end of the session. Of course this was all done at the track, there's no way I'd be able to get this data otherwise lol
We ran the car yesterday.
Ambient 65
Max paddock IAT1 98
Max paddock IAT2 143
Max track H20 = 196
Max track IAT1 75
Max track IAT2 115
I did not run the aux HE fans. As soon as the car was moving temps dropped quickly. Ran strong all day. Big believer in boxing and dumping the AC.
Huge fan of Wilwood conversion. It took me until the 6th session to remember how hard you can brake with this setup.
We ran 12 sessions and used 53 gallons of fuel refueling every 2 sessions.
Very forgiving ambient. July and August will tell.
Saw a C7 for the first time - unbelievable execution. Pic's in the rags do not do it justice.
chr
Ambient 65
Max paddock IAT1 98
Max paddock IAT2 143
Max track H20 = 196
Max track IAT1 75
Max track IAT2 115
I did not run the aux HE fans. As soon as the car was moving temps dropped quickly. Ran strong all day. Big believer in boxing and dumping the AC.
Huge fan of Wilwood conversion. It took me until the 6th session to remember how hard you can brake with this setup.
We ran 12 sessions and used 53 gallons of fuel refueling every 2 sessions.
Very forgiving ambient. July and August will tell.
Saw a C7 for the first time - unbelievable execution. Pic's in the rags do not do it justice.
chr
The last time I ran the car I became increasingly irritated at how slow it was thru the corners. I found good rhythm in the last session and was able to dive fairly fast, but I was at the limit of the front end. With the aero on the car I could run flat out on the back straight but the car seemed to wander a little. I called Maximum discussed the changes we had made and told them I wanted to re -spring and re-dampen. They asked me some questions and sent new parts i.e. MM3 525F 700R. They also gave me toe and camber settings. We also added a set of Hoosier R6's and a street roll bar tied to the shock tower brace. I sent 2 of the younger guys who work for me to PIR last month. One of them has driven the car on numerous occasions and stated it was a completely different animal. The one that had never driven was easily hitting speed in excess of 130 and that was without using 2nd gear.
I will drive the car at the end of June so we have been building around the roll bar. I purchased a street bar and then added to it. One of my requirements is we have to be able to put the car back to a street configuration if I ever wanted to. I purchased some Stiffler jacking rails and welded them in. I purchased some convertible door bars form Maximum and tied the B hoop and the door bar feet to the jacking rails. We are adding a jacking plate near the center of the wheel base.
Convertible door bar. We will gusset the bend.
Cross tube welded between jacking rail and sfc and welded to door bar plate.
This will become our jacking plate.
B pillar foot tied to cross tube. The MM SFC do not touch the body here so we added a vertical plate tied to sfc and floor and attached cross tube to that.
Using the jacking rails as a reference plane - I plan to sheet from front to rear with aluminum. We won't cross the tunnel but can still clean up a lot of surface area.
I can hardly wait to run it.
chr
I will drive the car at the end of June so we have been building around the roll bar. I purchased a street bar and then added to it. One of my requirements is we have to be able to put the car back to a street configuration if I ever wanted to. I purchased some Stiffler jacking rails and welded them in. I purchased some convertible door bars form Maximum and tied the B hoop and the door bar feet to the jacking rails. We are adding a jacking plate near the center of the wheel base.
Convertible door bar. We will gusset the bend.
Cross tube welded between jacking rail and sfc and welded to door bar plate.
This will become our jacking plate.
B pillar foot tied to cross tube. The MM SFC do not touch the body here so we added a vertical plate tied to sfc and floor and attached cross tube to that.
Using the jacking rails as a reference plane - I plan to sheet from front to rear with aluminum. We won't cross the tunnel but can still clean up a lot of surface area.
I can hardly wait to run it.
chr
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