Tools I Used:
8mm deep socket/wrench
10mm deep socket/wrench
13mm deep socket/wrench
Adjustable wrench
Socket wrench (I had a small 1/8” drive that did the trick)
Torque wrench
24” breaker bar
Needle nose pliers
Flashlight (to see into those dark places first where your hands end up)
1/2” to 3/8” drive adaptor (for breaker bar I had)
Short extension 3/8” drive
Magnetic retrieval tool (yes I had to use it LOL – damn bolts)
Phillips screwdriver
Flat head screwdriver
Thread sealer
Liquid wrench
Masking tape/pen
Paper towels/rags
These are the steps I followed, using info from other various postings, FRPP instructions, and some excellent written steps from the vendor I purchase the kit through (VMP’s “Canadian Connection”). No doubt there are others, some steps are interchangeable, but they cover everything I did, and worked for me.
Lay out all the tools/supplies you’ll need before starting – saves the hassle of running out to the local auto parts store in the middle of the job.
Label all noted electrical/vacuum connections before disconnection – there area few, and a some could be confusing once it’s all apart and you need to start hooking stuff up again.
Also lay out all your parts before beginning, double check you have everything you’re supposed to.
Spray EGR bolts with Liquid Wrench, or similar. Others had told me these can be a bit of a struggle, especially for cars with a few miles on ‘em, like mine. Doing this now will give the product time to soak in and do it’s job. You can see them tucked way (rust coloured) in the pics below:
Removal:
Overview pic, before beginning:
Disconnect negative battery terminal.
Remove strut bar nuts; two per side. Reinstall nuts once bar is removed – with my new Vortech 123mm CAI, it won’t be reused.
Remove S/C belt:
Now onto the blower belt (I wanted to do this first just to get it done). Remove the two 8mm bolts holding the coolant tank, and lift and move to one side. You won’t need to disconnect any coolant lines – just moving it out of the way will give you plenty of access to the belt tensioner.
I used a 24” (wish I’d had a 36”!) breaker bar with a short extension (3/8”) to access the tensioner. Rotate the bar clockwise til you have enough slack to remove the belt.
Remove CAI (specifics on disassembly depend on your particular setup, I had a Steeda – but connections are the same for all).
Disconnect MAF electrical:
Disconnect PCV hose, and vacuum hose on upper end of CAI tube.
Once CAI is out, here’s what you’re looking at:
Remove Throttle Body: Held on by four 8mm bolts at each corner; also disconnect the ETC (electronic throttle control) and TPS (throttle position sensor) connections on either side of TB (I placed a rag below the TB to catch any bolts that fell out):
Throttle body removed:
Next step remove plenum; disconnect two vacuum hoses on backside of plenum first. These two hose are a quick connect type – you MUST depress the white collar (see below) in order to trigger their release. Otherwise you’ll be pulling on these forever!
Then remove elbow; four 8mm bolts same as the TB; you are now here:
That’s it for the driver side for now, next move over to the passenger side:
Remove PCV hose (I have the JLT catch can – same operation though) from valve cover and S/C body:
Unplug electrical and vacuum lines from the EGR valve:
The electrical is a quick connect type, just depress the plastic slip on top:
Now there are a couple different ways to handle the EGR setup:
1. disconnect EGR hose at EGR and leave attached to blower, to swap to new blower prior to reinstall
2. or disconnect EGR from S/C body and leave attached to hose, leaving it in the car
Personally I found it easier to do “2”, and removed it from the blower body. There is a thin steel gasket that is between the EGR body and the S/C – keep this, it’ll be reused.
Remove vacuum hose on rear of blower, it’s a tight fit in there, and a set of long needle nose pliers will be needed. You can wait til the blower is loosened so you can move it forward slightly to allow better access. This is the way I reattached it to the new blower too.
Disconnect vacuum hose from blower side (just right of EGR in pic below)
Unhook electrical connector and vacuum line from IPTS (injection pressure and temp sensor):
Disconnect 4 passenger side injector electrical connectors:
Remove two 8mm bolts secure the passenger side fuel rail:
Slowly wriggle the fuel rail up and free of the intake, and rotate over to the drivers side. You won’t need to remove the driver’s side fuel setup. Some injectors will stay in the rail and some in the intake, you’ll get some minor gas spillage if the later. Clean up with some rags and cover and project empty intake holes, if any.
That’s it for the passenger side connections.
Now carefully lift the old blower out and place out of the way – carefully check to ensure all electrical/vacuum lines are disconnented. You may have to give the blower a quick rap or two to break it free. Now you’re done the removal process and ready to install that new TVS!
New blower preparation:
-If you used method “1” previously mentioned re the EGR, swap that egr valve onto the new TVS, don’t forget that tin gasket. Torque the egr valve bolts to 10ft/lb.
- Remove the factory o-rings from your factory elbow and install them on the new VMP elbow. Use a very very small amount of light grease on the o-rings(I use white lithium or luberplate).
-Lightly lube the upper intake o-ring with some clean engine oil, and check the intercooler for any debris that may have fallen in.
- Set new blower into place on the intake. Ensure it’s sitting properly before bolting up!
- Install the 10 blower bolts and snug them all by hand using a criss cross center out pattern, then torque the blower bolts to 16ft/lb using the same center out criss cross pattern.
- Tighten EGR connections and connect vacuum line at back of blower
- Reinstall all other vacuum lines and electrical connectors. This is where tagging them with masking tape prior to removal helps things go easier.
- Flip the fuel rail back over and reinstall. Make sure the injector retainer clips on the top are in place, carefully realign injectors and pop into place, then hook up the 4 injector connectors.
- Tighten down the fuel rail, hook up the vacuum line and electrical connector to the IPTS.
- Reinstall the s/c belt in reverse fashion.
- Reinstall the coolant reservoir
- Install VMS elbow and reconnect it’s two vacuum hoses.
- Reinstall throttle body and reconnect the TPS and ETC connections.
- Install CAI, and reconnect MAF, PCV, and vacuum connections.
Do a check around the blower and make sure all electrical and vacuum connectors are back in place and make sure the S/C belt is seated properly.
Reconnect the battery and start the car. Check again all around the blower for any thing out of place and check for leaks around the fuel rail.
Congrats, you’re done!
Re-tuning of course is also required
Congrats, you’re done!
A couple of notes:
Old Eaton weighed in at 37.5lbs, my new (ported) TVS weighed in at 36.5 on my trusty old bathroom scales.
Again, this is a pretty straightforward job that anyone with any mechanical ability at all will be able to complete. I’m pretty low on that scale, and if I can do it, anyone can! Just take your time and review the process a couple times beforehand and you’ll be good to go!
8mm deep socket/wrench
10mm deep socket/wrench
13mm deep socket/wrench
Adjustable wrench
Socket wrench (I had a small 1/8” drive that did the trick)
Torque wrench
24” breaker bar
Needle nose pliers
Flashlight (to see into those dark places first where your hands end up)
1/2” to 3/8” drive adaptor (for breaker bar I had)
Short extension 3/8” drive
Magnetic retrieval tool (yes I had to use it LOL – damn bolts)
Phillips screwdriver
Flat head screwdriver
Thread sealer
Liquid wrench
Masking tape/pen
Paper towels/rags
These are the steps I followed, using info from other various postings, FRPP instructions, and some excellent written steps from the vendor I purchase the kit through (VMP’s “Canadian Connection”). No doubt there are others, some steps are interchangeable, but they cover everything I did, and worked for me.
Lay out all the tools/supplies you’ll need before starting – saves the hassle of running out to the local auto parts store in the middle of the job.
Label all noted electrical/vacuum connections before disconnection – there area few, and a some could be confusing once it’s all apart and you need to start hooking stuff up again.
Also lay out all your parts before beginning, double check you have everything you’re supposed to.
Spray EGR bolts with Liquid Wrench, or similar. Others had told me these can be a bit of a struggle, especially for cars with a few miles on ‘em, like mine. Doing this now will give the product time to soak in and do it’s job. You can see them tucked way (rust coloured) in the pics below:
Removal:
Overview pic, before beginning:
Disconnect negative battery terminal.
Remove strut bar nuts; two per side. Reinstall nuts once bar is removed – with my new Vortech 123mm CAI, it won’t be reused.
Remove S/C belt:
Now onto the blower belt (I wanted to do this first just to get it done). Remove the two 8mm bolts holding the coolant tank, and lift and move to one side. You won’t need to disconnect any coolant lines – just moving it out of the way will give you plenty of access to the belt tensioner.
I used a 24” (wish I’d had a 36”!) breaker bar with a short extension (3/8”) to access the tensioner. Rotate the bar clockwise til you have enough slack to remove the belt.
Remove CAI (specifics on disassembly depend on your particular setup, I had a Steeda – but connections are the same for all).
Disconnect MAF electrical:
Disconnect PCV hose, and vacuum hose on upper end of CAI tube.
Once CAI is out, here’s what you’re looking at:
Remove Throttle Body: Held on by four 8mm bolts at each corner; also disconnect the ETC (electronic throttle control) and TPS (throttle position sensor) connections on either side of TB (I placed a rag below the TB to catch any bolts that fell out):
Throttle body removed:
Next step remove plenum; disconnect two vacuum hoses on backside of plenum first. These two hose are a quick connect type – you MUST depress the white collar (see below) in order to trigger their release. Otherwise you’ll be pulling on these forever!
Then remove elbow; four 8mm bolts same as the TB; you are now here:
That’s it for the driver side for now, next move over to the passenger side:
Remove PCV hose (I have the JLT catch can – same operation though) from valve cover and S/C body:
Unplug electrical and vacuum lines from the EGR valve:
The electrical is a quick connect type, just depress the plastic slip on top:
Now there are a couple different ways to handle the EGR setup:
1. disconnect EGR hose at EGR and leave attached to blower, to swap to new blower prior to reinstall
2. or disconnect EGR from S/C body and leave attached to hose, leaving it in the car
Personally I found it easier to do “2”, and removed it from the blower body. There is a thin steel gasket that is between the EGR body and the S/C – keep this, it’ll be reused.
Remove vacuum hose on rear of blower, it’s a tight fit in there, and a set of long needle nose pliers will be needed. You can wait til the blower is loosened so you can move it forward slightly to allow better access. This is the way I reattached it to the new blower too.
Disconnect vacuum hose from blower side (just right of EGR in pic below)
Unhook electrical connector and vacuum line from IPTS (injection pressure and temp sensor):
Disconnect 4 passenger side injector electrical connectors:
Remove two 8mm bolts secure the passenger side fuel rail:
Slowly wriggle the fuel rail up and free of the intake, and rotate over to the drivers side. You won’t need to remove the driver’s side fuel setup. Some injectors will stay in the rail and some in the intake, you’ll get some minor gas spillage if the later. Clean up with some rags and cover and project empty intake holes, if any.
That’s it for the passenger side connections.
Now carefully lift the old blower out and place out of the way – carefully check to ensure all electrical/vacuum lines are disconnented. You may have to give the blower a quick rap or two to break it free. Now you’re done the removal process and ready to install that new TVS!
New blower preparation:
-If you used method “1” previously mentioned re the EGR, swap that egr valve onto the new TVS, don’t forget that tin gasket. Torque the egr valve bolts to 10ft/lb.
- Remove the factory o-rings from your factory elbow and install them on the new VMP elbow. Use a very very small amount of light grease on the o-rings(I use white lithium or luberplate).
-Lightly lube the upper intake o-ring with some clean engine oil, and check the intercooler for any debris that may have fallen in.
- Set new blower into place on the intake. Ensure it’s sitting properly before bolting up!
- Install the 10 blower bolts and snug them all by hand using a criss cross center out pattern, then torque the blower bolts to 16ft/lb using the same center out criss cross pattern.
- Tighten EGR connections and connect vacuum line at back of blower
- Reinstall all other vacuum lines and electrical connectors. This is where tagging them with masking tape prior to removal helps things go easier.
- Flip the fuel rail back over and reinstall. Make sure the injector retainer clips on the top are in place, carefully realign injectors and pop into place, then hook up the 4 injector connectors.
- Tighten down the fuel rail, hook up the vacuum line and electrical connector to the IPTS.
- Reinstall the s/c belt in reverse fashion.
- Reinstall the coolant reservoir
- Install VMS elbow and reconnect it’s two vacuum hoses.
- Reinstall throttle body and reconnect the TPS and ETC connections.
- Install CAI, and reconnect MAF, PCV, and vacuum connections.
Do a check around the blower and make sure all electrical and vacuum connectors are back in place and make sure the S/C belt is seated properly.
Reconnect the battery and start the car. Check again all around the blower for any thing out of place and check for leaks around the fuel rail.
Congrats, you’re done!
Re-tuning of course is also required
Congrats, you’re done!
A couple of notes:
Old Eaton weighed in at 37.5lbs, my new (ported) TVS weighed in at 36.5 on my trusty old bathroom scales.
Again, this is a pretty straightforward job that anyone with any mechanical ability at all will be able to complete. I’m pretty low on that scale, and if I can do it, anyone can! Just take your time and review the process a couple times beforehand and you’ll be good to go!
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