Starting to work on my street car again. I know it will never hook, but what would be the best way to try and keep 2nd gear hooked up on the street. Where i live we have a mix of concrete, blacktop, and chipseal roads. What would be the ideal setup to attempt to keep as much traction as possible? Gear ratios? Stock 8.8 or 9"?Tires? Tire sizes? Watts link? Ect... I have spoken to a few suspension companys and each has sent me in a different direction. What do you high hp people recommend? Would like to stick with a street legal tire but not a deal breaker.
What the best way to put 1000+hp down on the street
- Thread starter blowbye
- Start date
I found that a fully built 8.8 was not that far away from a bolt in 9 inch. 8.8 can handle that HP level, but gear changes with the 9 inch are significantly easier I think. Be aware some available 9 inch gear sets are appropriate for strip duty only. BMR for the rest of suspension, Viking dual adjustable shocks and drag radial of choice.
As far as a tire goes if ur not using the MT Radial Pro then all the suspension, gear or different road surfaces won't mean shit.
U will need all the BMR stuff to hook along with Viking coil overs. I wud not get the watts link tho its more reserved for handling then hooking up.
seems like u have most of it covered in that pic. 15x10 MT Radial Pro is a must. but ur not gonna hook a 1000 hp on the street with any setup. maybe 800 hp but it also depends on what speed u smash it at.
U will need all the BMR stuff to hook along with Viking coil overs. I wud not get the watts link tho its more reserved for handling then hooking up.
seems like u have most of it covered in that pic. 15x10 MT Radial Pro is a must. but ur not gonna hook a 1000 hp on the street with any setup. maybe 800 hp but it also depends on what speed u smash it at.
Is this from a dig or rolling WOT hits?
Youve got pretty much every mod you can do for mechanical grip. At this point, Id think youd have to roll on bias plys or Mickey ET Street Pro radials.
Im getting the feeling this is dry conditions only?
Youve got pretty much every mod you can do for mechanical grip. At this point, Id think youd have to roll on bias plys or Mickey ET Street Pro radials.
Im getting the feeling this is dry conditions only?
2nd gear rolls, stabbing the throttle at around 3-4k. I know it will never hook. Id like to be able to get some heat in the tires and be able to do 2nd gear pulls... Im thinking about staying with a taller rear gear 3.31 or 3.08s. Then just swapping over my rear end to one with 3.73s and a spool for the track.
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Is there a certain tire size that is recommended or just the largest i can fit on a 15x10...
I ran 05r's on 18x10.5 wheels at was able to stay hooked up on 2nd gear pulls last year with warm tires making 900+
The watts link would be the main thing that people seem to disagee over. Ive ran both the anti-roll bar and the watts and i really do believe on the "street" the watts feels much more planted. I could be wrong just going off of "feel". At this point is my only option going to be going to a 15x10 wheel with a radial pro or bias ply?
I ran 05r's on 18x10.5 wheels at was able to stay hooked up on 2nd gear pulls last year with warm tires making 900+
The watts link would be the main thing that people seem to disagee over. Ive ran both the anti-roll bar and the watts and i really do believe on the "street" the watts feels much more planted. I could be wrong just going off of "feel". At this point is my only option going to be going to a 15x10 wheel with a radial pro or bias ply?
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Since your rolling, 315/60R15 ET Street radial Pro:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-3763x
Only Question would be does it fit our rear wheel wells. On the Summit reviews tab for this tire, looks like there is a GT500 that is running them.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-3763x
Only Question would be does it fit our rear wheel wells. On the Summit reviews tab for this tire, looks like there is a GT500 that is running them.
Why hasn’t anyone asked what the shock settings are at yet?
What kind of springs do you have?
Forget a radial with a stick shift, a bias ply is what you need.
What kind of springs do you have?
Forget a radial with a stick shift, a bias ply is what you need.
What is your setup for the front suspension?
You seem adamant that your car will not hook on the street with 1000hp. It is a challenge, but not impossible.
Working backward from the tires.
What tires are you running, and at what air pressure? The tires are important, and often times ignored. Every tire is not equal for every car.
Shocks, springs, weight transfer, and rebound are next. If anything is out of balance you will spin the tires. You can likely make your current setup work with a lot of minor tweaks.
I did not see a video, but if you have one that would help diagnosing the traction issue easier.
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Working backward from the tires.
What tires are you running, and at what air pressure? The tires are important, and often times ignored. Every tire is not equal for every car.
Shocks, springs, weight transfer, and rebound are next. If anything is out of balance you will spin the tires. You can likely make your current setup work with a lot of minor tweaks.
I did not see a video, but if you have one that would help diagnosing the traction issue easier.
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Also, where are you located? If you are close enough I will personally volunteer my time to get the geometry figured out to make everything work.
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Current setup is strange adjustable struts. Set all the way open currently. Been looking at viking coilovers. BMR drag springs. Front swaybar i run in the loosest setting on the street and take off for the track. Rear shock settings differ on road surfaces. On concrete i have had success with 12c8r. Located in WI, car usually driven in 50-70 degree temps.
Car weighs 1950 in the front and 1750 in the rear.
Street tires- currently running a 315 nt05r on a 18x10.5 wheel.
Usually 18-20psi
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He's not launching from a dig. Needs a stiffer tire for a rolling hit and street driving. Shock loads on the axles, especially with the way its built, is not going to be an issue.
The suspension still works even if the vehicle is moving. There still needs to be weight transfer and you still need to keep the weight on the tires.
A soft bias ply slick will hook better on pretty much anything except a flypaper track.
The more you lower these cars the more you take away antisquat, you can kinda put a bandaid on it by cranking up your compression but it will ride like crap, look up a antisquat calculator and study it, makes all the difference between spinning & winning.
From what I see, you have a good set up. You are running a lot of different surfaces. 50° weather could cause a traction issue due to a cold street/track temp.
The biggest challenge is going to be dialing in what you have for each individual surface.
If you can, I would like to see a side video in real time and slow motion of the car reacting to your launch, and then as it breaks loose. A rear view and a side view would be ideal. I frontal 3/4 view would also help to see what the nose is doing.
I'm in GA, so driving to WI is out of the question. I wish you were closer.
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275/60 is what I would chose.
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