This past winter, I decided to install some suspension handling upgrades on my 2008 Shelby. The core modification was the installation of a Maximum Motorsports K-member for strength, along with Ford Racing M-3075-E front lower control arms, MM bump steer kit, and Bilstein struts. I had previously installed H&R Sport lowering springs, H&R front and rear sway bars, BMR adjustable endlinks, and MM Caster/Camber plates which complement the above mods. After performing a proper alignment, I tested out my new handling suspension on some twisties, and I will say that the front end feels very planted, to the point of oversteer, though I haven’t pushed it hard enough for the back end to come around yet. I may have to look into a Watts Link to equally plant the rear… time will tell. A secondary advantage of the MM K-member over the OEM K-member is how much accessibility it allows to the engine components underneath the car. The biggest payoff is that the suspension system is confidence inspiring, and it is easier to drive the car fast!
In the rear, I installed MM extreme duty adjustable LCAs, mostly just to perfectly center my rear axle front to back in the wheel well after lowering the rear suspension. I removed my QA1 single adjustable drag shocks and replaced them with Bilstein shocks to match the front struts. Then I squared the K-member and the rear axle to the frame and with each other using four plumb bobs to make sure my car tracked straight and stayed straight under WOT acceleration. The overall ride feeling is controlled and dampened, not harsh at all, and I was very surprised that there was no increase in NVH due to the addition of the spherical bearing rod end LCAs, going from a full poly bushing rear end. Other forum members have had great results with the MM LCAs paired with rubber bushing UCAs, but I am still utilizing a BMR adjustable UCA with poly bushings on the body mount and rear differential housing, and I would not hesitate to daily drive my car… it’s that easy on the ears.
Once the suspension work was complete, I installed a VMP belt tensioner because the OEM piece was worn out, allowing the belt to slip (chirp) between shifts when I let off the gas. I have not been able to test the new VMP tensioner under WOT conditions yet, due to the cold temperatures where I am located, but I will load test it when the temps get warmer. It is a well-constructed and nice-looking piece. Finally, I installed a PA Performance alternator with a 10% underdrive pulley to rectify a string of alternator issues I have experienced since my original OEM alternator took a dump last year. I’ll address that more in a future thread once I can street test it beyond 6000 rpm.
In the rear, I installed MM extreme duty adjustable LCAs, mostly just to perfectly center my rear axle front to back in the wheel well after lowering the rear suspension. I removed my QA1 single adjustable drag shocks and replaced them with Bilstein shocks to match the front struts. Then I squared the K-member and the rear axle to the frame and with each other using four plumb bobs to make sure my car tracked straight and stayed straight under WOT acceleration. The overall ride feeling is controlled and dampened, not harsh at all, and I was very surprised that there was no increase in NVH due to the addition of the spherical bearing rod end LCAs, going from a full poly bushing rear end. Other forum members have had great results with the MM LCAs paired with rubber bushing UCAs, but I am still utilizing a BMR adjustable UCA with poly bushings on the body mount and rear differential housing, and I would not hesitate to daily drive my car… it’s that easy on the ears.
Once the suspension work was complete, I installed a VMP belt tensioner because the OEM piece was worn out, allowing the belt to slip (chirp) between shifts when I let off the gas. I have not been able to test the new VMP tensioner under WOT conditions yet, due to the cold temperatures where I am located, but I will load test it when the temps get warmer. It is a well-constructed and nice-looking piece. Finally, I installed a PA Performance alternator with a 10% underdrive pulley to rectify a string of alternator issues I have experienced since my original OEM alternator took a dump last year. I’ll address that more in a future thread once I can street test it beyond 6000 rpm.
