2013 GT500 FAQ's (noobs enter)

Devious_Snake

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Ok guys, there has been some mention of trying to create a frequently asked question list for the noobs to come in and read this before making endless threads of the same topics already discussed, feel free to add any I may have missed. DISCLAIMER: SOME OF THESE INCLUDE MY OWN PERSONAL PREFERENCE AND OPINION SO DO NOT DO SOMETHING IF YOU DISAGREE, YOU CAN MAKE YOUR OWN DECISION ABOUT YOUR CAR, FREE WILL REMEMBER?

How do I order a 2013/2014 GT500? Production is now over, so if you want one start looking!
-Find a dealer who has an available allocation, also see "how not to pay an ADM" : http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ow-not-pay-adm-2013-gt500-dealer-mark-up.html

How many will be built this year?
-It was thought Ford would build as many as possible, but recent news and activity is leaning more towards less than 4500 built for 2013
UPDATE: As of now about 49xx 2013's were built
UPDATE 2: The final count is less than 10K 2013/2014 GT500's were built.

Why do dealers charge an ADM?
-Many schools of thought on this but one basic principle: greed! maximize profit in a market that sees more demand than supply

Are parts from older GT500's (10-12) interchangeable with this new one?
- many parts are able to be retrofitted and vice versa, major ones excluded are the H/E, rear fascia and tailights. For more info on mods, experience with these cars please visit the guys in the other GT500 section, that includes cars from 07-12. These cars have changed but not by as much as it would seem.

Is the SVTPP/TP necessary for normal street driving?
- save the coin if you dont track the car at all! if you really just like the wheels and resale value of a fully optioned car then opt for the PP/TP. These really are more usable for those who intend on tracking the car more than once a year for 20 mins

3.55 or 3.31 gears?
-all vehicles come equipped with 3.31 gears

What is the top speed?
-all coupes have a claimed top speed of 202mph, no limiter. Only the convertible models are limited to 155mph.

Does the TP delete the fog lights?
-NO.

Is the 3 piece splitter a separate option?
-No all vehicles are shipped with them in a box in your trunk, your dealer will install it during PDI unless you instruct him not to do so.

Is the Nav and/or Shaker pro worth it?
- to many yes, if you are a picky audiophile then you might want to build your own. If you are ok with a system much like the shaker 1000 plus warranty, then get it. Nav is top notch and MYsync is awesome! However you need to be sure you want it and dont plan to really upgrade the electronics or you are wasting money you could use elsewhere...so this purely a subjective option.

Glass roof? how much weight? strength?
-The glass roof is a rare option but those who have it swear by it. It only adds 22 lbs and is actually more rigid than the standard roof.

Recaro seats or base seats?
- Recaro seats are manual only, but provide tons of support and minimize body movement while driving hard. Base seats offer 8 way power for the driver. They are also very comfy, with bolsters. To be sure, find a car and test it yourself. Opinions here differ too much

Are Grabber Blue stripes an option? is GHIG an option?
-Grabber blue stripes no longer offered, only sonic blue. GHIG is not a color option on the GT500. Note: 2014 Cars now have new colors: oxford white replaces performance white. Red candy is phased out. The cars are also now painted in a new 3 step process.

UPDATE: there was one special order GHIG convertible made.

How much boost does the SC pump out?
-stock form is 14 PSI

Is the SC unlocked?
-Upon pick up of your vehicle, drive 5 consecutive miles or 50 cold starts to unlock boost, whichever comes first (just drive away and hold on after mile 6)

How much does the car weigh?
- about 3870 lbs

My SC is quiet, is this normal?
- Yes the SC is more efficient and quieter plus the intake has a resonator ( to get more volume, get a FRPP resonator delete, JLT intake tube or a new intake)Note: after some months of mods among others, a TB upgrade will yield a more pronounced SC whine, also swapping to a smaller pulley or porting the elbow will do that. Be careful, the mod bug is strong.

What oil for the car?
- Ford recommends 5W50 synthetic, 8.5 quarts (9.5 for TP cars) Most here will tell you to switch from motorcrap(my opinion) to something else such as AMSoil (10W40). Please search for the UAO oil thread for more info or member: UnleashedBeast

Is there a break in period?
- about 100 miles for the drivetrain to get going, engine is broken in at factory. Otherwise drive the way you drive from the get go. Note: this school of thought has also slightly changed, definitely give the car a few hundred miles of good stop and go driving to break the clutch in properly. Lots of shifts, varying RPM's etc. This will allow all the drivetrain parts to really break in. I say after 500 miles you will good to go to drive hard. Use your own judgment folks.

First oil change?
- different schools of thought, some do it at 500 or 1000 miles...some just wait until the life of the oil has almost run out ( about 7500 miles) again your choice, do your research!

The clutch engages very high, is this normal?
-Yes clutch engagement is high, few inches off the floor...it will break in. Note: Update to this, some members have found that removing the assist spring in the clutch helps provide a more consistent feel to it, pedal effort is slightly increased but thus far seems well worth it. Its a 10 minute mod. Please see member: Snoppy49 for further details.

UPDATE: some owners have reports a slight difference in clutch field between the 13 and 14 cars.

Im hearing a vibrating sound from my shifter area?!
- likely the tag that was left on the driveshaft, it becomes undone and hits against the bottom creating a loud vibrating noise. Have the dealer remove it during PDI or just drive faster and let it fly off! Update: it seems Ford caught on and later build cars no longer have the tag attached. If you are hearing clutch chatter check your driving habits. The cars do not like low rpm's or being lugged around.

Is there a brake fade problem?
-unless you are going all out at the track for long sessions, no. Stock fluid is not really meant for extended track use. Dont believe every mag article, they have proven recently to be crap. To be sure, switch your fluid to a higher temp one ( such as motul 600 or wilwood) which is more durable. Otherwise regular street driving, the 6 piston brembos are very good ( single piston in the rear)

are the foglights LED's?
-NO.

Do you 2014's have the 20th SVT anniversary lighted door sills?
-No.

The middle LCD screen shows running horse on early cars and snakes on others, why?
-All 2013's have the running horse with the word Mustang. Some early 2014's also. However the later 2014's now seem to come with a snake and the words " shelby gt500"

mods for the 2013/14?
- plenty available already, suggestion? talk to Van at revan racing, lethal performance, vmp, evolution, etc.

Is the GT500 as comfy as the zl1?
- very subjective, if you want comfort and ease of driving, buy a CTS-V or a zl1 if your a pansy, if you want a real raw pony car, then get the GT500 ( sorry thats just my opinion, either one is a very good car)

Did Ford ever clock an "official" time at the 'Ring?
-through reading and research you will find there really is no such thing as "official" times at that track. No third parties to conduct it nor is there an actual "go fast" list, its just all manufacturer claims. Yes the GT500 has been tested and developed on the 'Ring and also tracks such as VIR, Road Atlanta, Laguna Seca, Willow springs and others. Ford has no intention it seems to jump into a marketing war with GM about their "claimed" time with the zl1. So the answer as of now, no time released, or plans to.

UPDATE: you can look up the recent news svtp made about this very issue.

Things to look out for when owning a GT500:

When picking up your car be sure the 3 piece splitter is in the trunk or installed.

Have your servie guy check underneath by the rear of the driveshaft for a white tag, these can come undone and flap against the bottom of the car causing noise and vibration, making you the driver get real nervous.

Other members have advised of a metal piece being off by the H pipe ( not flat), which causes a squeeling noise at speed.

Clutch: at this time a few guys have blown up their stock clutches, the reason is yet unknown but I believe its a bad batch. To be sure, break in your car for at least a couple hundred miles driving in varying speeds and rpm ranges. Give the drivetrain a chance to get going before you start doing 3rd and 4th gear pulls deep into the zone.....read the manual! get to know your car! P.S. These vehicles come equipped with a powertrain protection feature in the tune, meaning the computer will cut power when it detects clutch. This usually rears its ugly head at the drag strip causing bog at the line. No one has been able to overwrite it as of yet.

shifting: these cars have a high clutch engagement point and the TR-6060 is known to be tough for some people. To avoid 2nd gear grind or lockout, fully plant the clutch pedal to the floor, pull back and towards your body for that 2nd gear shift. For smoother shifts, switch to Amsoil ATF fluid. Also if you hate stock rubber bushing shifters then consider a barton or MGW replacement.

Tires: the goodyear G2 tires are not to be used in temps under 40F. They work better when very warm since they are R compound. If you drive hard and want more confidence, consider switching them out for michelin PSS or something else on the street. Through my experience and others the Goodyears are very good for the road course.
----options: Many people are using Michelin MPSS tires and Toyo R888's. You can fit a 295/35 MPSS on the stock wheel. If you prefer a DR, then you can easily put a 305/35 Nitto NT555R for example on the stock wheel.

brake fluid reservoir: check that it is not overfilled from the factory, many have been and it leaks when heated. This causes drip which can eat the paint in your engine bay, it happened to me.

brakes: under very hard driving, like at a track, brake fade has been reported. Easiest fix is to switch out the brake fluid for a higher temp race one ( such as motul 600) this is also suggested anytime you track the car anyway.

Rear Diff: some people have had whiny rear gears, myself included. Some have had them replaced under warranty, others have just swapped to different gears. My dealer refuses to change mine for some reason. Pay close attention once you have about 700-1000 miles. Thats when mine started. Its not a widespread issue, but some of us have had it.

Bent axles: Some owners have had bent or broken axles, both modded and stock. It is my understanding the axles are all the same through the mustang lineup. There is no TSB on this as of now. Just be mindful of very high rpm launches and any noises or vibration coming from the rear.

Modding: you pay to play....just remember that. Contact Van (revan racing) for your modding needs or any of our vendors here. My suggestion, start with handling first the car has enough power and its utterly useless if you can't put it to the ground.

Update:

No more 2013/2014 production. 2015 has been revealed and is expected to drop next summer.

Other questions:

I am having a hard time launching at the track, tips?

Check the drag times list, also members such as: Snorman, Njtony,TTlambo, dustin etc. Some guys have done well getting good times and honestly it takes seat time more than anything to get the hang of it. Just stay with it. If you are new to it, then use the LC settings (read your manual) if you are a well versed drag racer, forget the nannies and do it yourself. (Just my opinion) Also Lethal Performance currently holds the record for the fastest GT500, so you could pick their brain.

Can I use this car at the road course?
Absolutely. This big heavy muscle car is more than capable and is quite a challenge. I have done it, and it was great. Talk to Van, thus far he has the most experience tracking these cars.

Can this car beat other high end sports cars such as the Z06, GTR, etc?

This is one of those questions that could create a shitstorm of a thread. Thus far there are plenty of videos around of GT500's losing and winning. You never know really. From experience and what Ive seen this car is more than capable of hanging and sometimes winning in stock form. However when you start talking mods, things change. So for example: just because you make more power than a modded Z06, you might still lose: its called power to weight. Thats just one example, those with experience know these things. Do not get caught up in the horsepower games and fanboy attitudes. Drivers also make a big difference. This is a great time for all car enthusiast regardless of vehicle choice, just enjoy it and have fun.





UPDATE:

For those who want to order a certificate go here: http://www.fordshowparts.com/store_contents.cfm?store_id=1&dept_id=-1&product_id=6878
 
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mullens

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I have a question. Boost on the GT500 is controlled by vacuum via the bypass valve. There is no electronic waste gate like a turbo. If this is the case, how does the PCM limit boost for the initial 5 mile/50 start period?
 

BlownAway03

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I have a question. Boost on the GT500 is controlled by vacuum via the bypass valve. There is no electronic waste gate like a turbo. If this is the case, how does the PCM limit boost for the initial 5 mile/50 start period?

I think it keeps that bypass valve from opening until the conditions have been met.
 

blackshelby

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I have a question. Boost on the GT500 is controlled by vacuum via the bypass valve. There is no electronic waste gate like a turbo. If this is the case, how does the PCM limit boost for the initial 5 mile/50 start period?

The throttle is limited Since it doesn't open no boost.
 

BossAnaki

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Good post Devious.:beer: This should become a sticky, as alot of the recent new members don't use the search function.:nonono: Also tons of great info in the other GT500 section.
 
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Chris!

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Glad some body posted it

Just seems the same questions get asked over and over again- now its all in one neat and tidy place

tob- can you sticky?


As for Motorcrap oil- its ok- but there are better options out there
 

Devious_Snake

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Motorcraft is a good oil, but tests have shown ( there is a huge UOA thread on this) that its viscosity breaks down very quickly....most people use something else on their cars such as Mobil 1, Amsoil and redline

also the boost limit when you first get the car is a computer program ( PCM) controls the boost levels, like others have said when conditions are met the computer allows for it to open up, a valet option from the factory if you will

another one was added to OP
 
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dustin88lx

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*To OP* Only thing I am seeing that you may consider changing is the boost level, I have seen 15lbs on my SC more than one time on drives through 3rd and 4th gear. I was always under the impression 15lbs was factory setting.
 

Marc

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You might want to put "in order" what to expect when ordering your shelby. For Instance:

Get Allocation
Get Vin #
DORA
Window Sticker
...and all the steps in between until it is delivered to your door.
 
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Snoopy49

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Motorcraft synthetic oil is made by Castrol I believe which is decent oil

From what I have read Ashland Oil Company makes it for Motorcraft. I need to do a little more research to confirm.

Conoco Phillips is also mentioned as the manufacturer.

Hopefully someone in the know will clear up the mystery.
 
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bpmurr

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Is the Nav and/or Shaker pro worth it?
- to many yes, if you are a picky audiophile then you might want to build your own. If you are ok with a system much like the shaker 1000 plus warranty, then get it. Nav is top notch and MYsync is awesome!

And to many no, I had the NAV system in my 2010 GT500 and 2010 SHO. I decided against it because it isn't worth the coin. Sure it works pretty well but is becoming extremely dated. Many of the nice features are tied to a Sirius subscription as well. As for the Shaker 1000 it's only recommended for someone that doesn't plan on changing the audio system that needs more bass.
 

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