FRPP/Whipple kit content and install on '09 GT500

LizardGT500

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Yeah, pump installation went ok, removal that's when I faced my "luck"
As you may see the potentiometer from original pump cracked in two pieces and this is critical part of the old pump that ment to be reused.
IMG_20130610_162154_zpsa44f5ff9.jpg

So I've compared them and they came out to be exactly the same apart solder point location. I've tinned the opposite side of the new unit
IMG_20130610_162738_zps3693f334.jpg

and run the wireing accordingly.
IMG_20130610_163441_zpsd1c05afd.jpg

So now as you can see, it works as the older cars unit. 170 ohm on full tank.
IMG_20130610_164007_zps759f0e64.jpg

and 0 ohm - empty.
IMG_20130610_164017_zpseb925c15.jpg
 

LizardGT500

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I am having a bit high idle speed by the way. Is that normal? 1400-1500rpm cold start up then goes to 900rpm as it worms up.
IMG_20130610_180643_zps712effe5.jpg
 

Tob

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Mine idled high initially when cold and quickly settled down. It still does it in cooler temps but not for as long. You really need to drive it for some time under varying conditions.

Freaky dash cover btw...
 

LizardGT500

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Just called Ford tech, they say it's my Dynatech longtube headers and X-pipe with sports cats that probably make the engine to idle at 900 rpm. It's sad but it looks like I have to go back to stock exhaust(((
They say this setup may leanout the engine.
 

Tob

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I didn't know you had headers as you never mentioned anything about mods.

Try contacting VMP (etc). They may be able to provide you with a similar tune to the ProCal tune for the Whipple but that would allow headers, etc...
 

LizardGT500

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Not sure if I have to change the tune. First of, I really want to be on a safe side (that is why I choose FRPP kit) and second, I have nailed Her today and AFR is flipping between 11-12 at WOT, which is not bad at all I believe.
 

dirtyo2000

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I would get a professional tune before removing the headers. IF air/fuel looks good on a dyno I wouldn't bother. The initial tunes are on the rich side to protect cats and all strategies are intact. Get it checked but I'm sure your good.
 

VegasMichael

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Tob:

Inre your decision to leave the strut tower brace off, was it because you thought it unnecessary or was there a fitment issue due to the pressure it placed upon the CAI? I noticed on mine(I have the plastic JLT 123mm) that there is maybe a half inch of clearance between the CAI and the valve cover; also, the strut tower brace does contact the CAI but just barely; in fact, I can actually slide a piece of paper through the contact point with just a tad of effort.
 

Tob

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Michael, the fit of the factory stock STB in concert with the installation of this kit was not even close.

IMG_7413.jpg


I later remedied that (in case you missed it)...

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...y-strut-tower-brace-fit-frpp-whipple-cai.html

Do I think the STB is a necessary component on a GT500? No. Don't get me wrong, I'm quite certain that you could measure a difference with respect to deflection at the strut under dynamic conditions. But the number would be extremely small on an S197.

It sounds like you are close with the Whipple/JLT combination. You could always use a limited number of washers between the STB and the tower itself to raise it up if need be.
 

VegasMichael

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Tob:

I missed your strut tower brace refit/weld thread. Good stuff, amigo. But I couldn't figure out why I had satisfactory(to me anyway) clearance over the air inlet tube of the JLT. Certainly its breadth/circumference wasn't that much narrower than yours. So I went down to the garage, popped the hood and was a bit dismayed at what I hadn't noticed before:

I dug out the directions that came with the JLT and noticed that it comes with two spacers for the STB. :bash: This is the type of thing you fail to learn when someone else does the install.


Anyway, another mystery solved. I also noted that the Whipple directions now include a spark plug gap recommendation whereas before that had been omitted. Yet I'm still a bit taken back at some of the typographical errors with their directions. :shrug: Guess it doesn't matter much.

Anyway, I'm still working with the Lund people on the logs for the tune. I had done the idle, neutral and cruise logs but the latest software used to data log did not completely work with my '07 so the Lund Team had me use an earlier version. Just did another idle log a little while ago and submitted it to them for evaluation. Here's a look:

RPM's seemed right but I can't intelligently comment on the rest.
 

03 DSG Snake

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This is
Michael, the fit of the factory stock STB in concert with the installation of this kit was not even close.

IMG_7413.jpg


I later remedied that (in case you missed it)...

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...y-strut-tower-brace-fit-frpp-whipple-cai.html

Do I think the STB is a necessary component on a GT500? No. Don't get me wrong, I'm quite certain that you could measure a difference with respect to deflection at the strut under dynamic conditions. But the number would be extremely small on an S197.

It sounds like you are close with the Whipple/JLT combination. You could always use a limited number of washers between the STB and the tower itself to raise it up if need be.

Apologies for the zombie bump, this thread is too informative not to scoot up a bit.


What happens to the vacuum line fitting on the driver side of the intake tube?

See image below:

24-2010-ford-shelby-gt500-engine.jpg
 

yellow03cobra

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I'm not sure what the whipple kit does with it but it is usually the vent side of the bypass valve. If it's not connected it's most likely capped off on the intake and not used. It doesn't need to vent back into the tube.
 

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